What chains to use for cutting firewood?

[winland]

I am hoping that I will come out with more knowledge and less confusing after reading the responses to this inquiry.

I scrounge for my firewood, most is free, some is cheap, some is barter.
The wood that I get maybe maple limbs or I may get ash tree trunks that are 36" in diameter.

My go-to saws are:
Husky 346xp with an 18" bar mostly used for bucking limbs into 16" - 18" sections for splitting.
Husky 371xp with a 24" bar used for bucking larger logs into sections and for quartering big rounds into usable size. lots of noodles
Husky 394xp with a 28" or 34" bar for bucking large logs and quartering them into usable/liftable pieces. More noodles

My basic question is what type of chains should I be using?
All of my bars are .050

Any general "rules of thumb" regarding which chains the average homeowner that cuts and splits his/her own wood should follow?

 

[EXCALIBER]

First I would use a sharp chain.
Second I would use the cheapest high quality chain, like a bulk roll of it from Bailey's like the woodland pro.
Third just depend on the location you are in and the type of wood you are cutting. Dirty wood go for a semi chisel chain, clean wood go for full chisel chain and keep it out of the dirt.

 

[sunfish]

I run semi chisel on all my saws, Stihl, Oregon and Woodland Pro. All good!

It stays sharper longer than chisel for me and cuts just as fast after I sharpen it.

 

[kz1000]

I am hoping that I will come out with more knowledge and less confusing after reading the responses to this inquiry.

I scrounge for my firewood, most is free, some is cheap, some is barter.
The wood that I get maybe maple limbs or I may get ash tree trunks that are 36" in diameter.

My go-to saws are:
Husky 346xp with an 18" bar mostly used for bucking limbs into 16" - 18" sections for splitting.
Husky 371xp with a 24" bar used for bucking larger logs into sections and for quartering big rounds into usable size. lots of noodles
Husky 394xp with a 28" or 34" bar for bucking large logs and quartering them into usable/liftable pieces. More noodles

My basic question is what type of chains should I be using?
All of my bars are .050

Any general "rules of thumb" regarding which chains the average homeowner that cuts and splits his/her own wood should follow?

After seeing the sweet saws that you have, I'm at a loss for words on why you are asking what chain to use? Semi-chisel for dirt is the right way to go, I have had good and bad chains out of each of the manufacturers of the same type, I think it might be a batch/run thing.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Semi chisel of any name brand and roll with it.

Jimmy....mobile.

 

[winland]

Since all my bars are .050 gauge, does the chain pitch, 1/4," .325", 3/8," .404," or 3/4." make a big difference when cutting wood? Should I use a different pitch with different bar lengths or use the same pitch on all my bars?

I hope I said all that correctly.
Chuck

 

[(:-D]

I use full chisel and keep it out of the dirt. I cut most of the way through until I get to an area that can be cut all the way. Then go back and roll the pre cut log and finish cut the rounds.

I bring an extra file to touch up if it won't cut. Extra chain in my saw box if things go south!

 

[nathon918]

After seeing the sweet saws that you have, I'm at a loss for words on why you are asking what chain to use? Semi-chisel for dirt is the right way to go, I have had good and bad chains out of each of the manufacturers of the same type, I think it might be a batch/run thing.

i was thinking the same thing when i saw the saws listed

 

[winland]

Is one chain type better for bucking vs. noodling?

Chuck

 

[nathon918]

Since all my bars are .050 gauge, does the chain pitch, 1/4," .325", 3/8," .404," or 3/4." make a big difference when cutting wood? Should I use a different pitch with different bar lengths or use the same pitch on all my bars?

I hope I said all that correctly.
Chuck

is this a joke??? that 394 might run a .404 but definetly wont run 3/4 nor will any "hand held" chain saw youre chain has to match the drive sprocket pitch and the bar nose sprocket... just run 3/8 in atleast the 2 big saws and .325 in the small one, but id just run em all 3/8.
i really hope this is a joke

 

[winland]

i was thinking the same thing when i saw the saws listed

Can the wrong chain (even if it is sharp) make a great saw look bad if used in the wrong wood or situation?
Just asking.

 

[zogger]

Since all my bars are .050 gauge, does the chain pitch, 1/4," .325", 3/8," .404," or 3/4." make a big difference when cutting wood? Should I use a different pitch with different bar lengths or use the same pitch on all my bars?

I hope I said all that correctly.
Chuck

Not exactly sure what you mean, unless you mean, if you were to buy a single roll and use that.

your 346 proly came with .325. but, I don't know what you have...

You could get by with all 3/8ths if you wanted to on all your saws, BUT, your drive sprocket on the saw and nose sprocket on the bar and chain all have to have the same pitch. You can't just slap different pitch chain on random saws and bars. On your 346, drop bar size down to 16 if you need to get another bar to run 3/8ths (or if replaceable sprocket nose, just replace that, or...your choice).

.404 is big chain, big cutters, you can use it, but you can get by with 3/8ths on your 394 just fine up to that big bar size you have, that is what is on mine, 3/8ths, husky 394 with a 28 and 36.. Much longer bar than that I think most guys bump it up to .404 and go to skip chain then, but that is above my paygrade now, no experience, just what I have read here.

Just remember, it all has to match!

 

[zogger]

Can the wrong chain (even if it is sharp) make a great saw look bad if used in the wrong wood or situation?
Just asking.

You will wreck things running the incorrect chain. You must run the correct pitch and gauge that matches your two sprockets and the bar groove for the gauge. It will tear those things up if they aren't matched up correctly and the saw will run like crappus.


Here, check this out..

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw-stickies/148248.htm#post2364135

You have nice saws, about as good of a pro saw full lineup as a boy could want, and they will be happy saws with the correct chain.

 

[winland]

OK, sorry, I have apparently asked too many questions initially.
No I am not looking to purchase a roll of chain to use on all my chainsaws and bars.

Let's narrow it down to the 346xp.

With an 18" bar and using a semi-chisel chain and .050 gauge, would a .325 or a 3/8 pitch chain cut easier/faster?
Or does it really matter?

 

[sunfish]

Your questions don't match your equipment list.

Are you a newb that just got some kickass saws? :msp_confused:

 

[CTYank]

If you want to make it easier on your bigger saws, don't noodle all the way through.

Just noodle in enough to cut through any forks & knots, or about a bar width. Then pound in a couple wedges. That'll keep you chain out of the dirt, will turn less wood into waste, and get it done quicker. You can only make use of so many cubic yards of noodles. (At least, I have limits there.)

With the long bars, if a particular chain in some specific wood, makes the saw labor, I'd try a skip-tooth 3/8". Keeping as many chains as possible 3/8" pitch, keeps maximum interchangeability.

Unless you're up-tight against the clock, you'll benefit most from semi-chisel, over full-chisel. IMHO.

M'self, I'd fret about how best to hand-file them. That's where the returns are. Touch chains up a tad, in the woods too, whenever there's any doubt about them being razor-sharp. Makes extreme "cubin-inches" a luxury, even a burden at times. (Search Granberg file guide.) (Search depth-gauge setting too.) This can be really precise and easy.

Above all else, Keep It Simple. You'll have plenty of curve-balls coming at you. Things get really complicated and frantic, that's when bad things happen.

 

[cory@owen]

This is weird! I repeat...... Weird!!!! :msp_unsure:

 

[winland]

This is weird! I repeat...... Weird!!!! :msp_unsure:

Me too.

 

[kz1000]

This is weird! I repeat...... Weird!!!! :msp_unsure:

Never runs saws while under the influence of foreign substances or talk about them.:msp_tongue:

 

[cory@owen]

Me too.

I like it. Should be some good answers in this one after the signature shock wears off. Anybody say a sharp one? Yep that's a good start!:msp_tongue: