What chainsaw should one buy to make a living with? Also need advise on repairs.

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Both the saws you have are rugged damn fine saws fix em n you'll be set in my opinion if there's not enough power then buy a new saw but damn sure fix those I'd do that first I love the 55 husqy I do believe the 51 an 55 are very similar pictures?
Yes I have decided to repair both saws, thanks for the push, Jeff.
 
Lots of folk would recommend using oem parts that's a matter of how much money you are willing to spend I'm not exactly sure of the performance differences just thought I'd put that out there
 
Ok Doug I have an overhaul kit coming for the 51. Was hoping someone could tell me where I could find the two piece ignition modules and bar/chain combo for a Husky 61. Thanks, Jeff.
 
Well guys I've finished repairs on the Husky 61, found the two piece ignition, set the gap on the coil/flywheel to .012. Had to make a new idle adjustment screw, welded up a few muffler holes and rework the muffler to head mounts, helicoils would not work as the head mount holes were to large, so had to grind out the back side of the holes to fit nuts, like a 51 is set up. Also had to weld nuts to the muffler through bolts. Installed a new kill switch cleaned the carb, now it's a good running saw again. Still some work to do but it's good to go. Here are some photos.

image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
You can rebuild Husq 51 with a 46mm Husq 55 topend. Check fleabay = ~$20. You'll probably have to enlarge the impulse hole in the bottom of the new cylinder, so that it communicates with the crankcase. Delete base gasket and use Motoseal (or similar). Use new impulse grommet and intake boot - probably why it toasted. If you want to be safe, do a pressure and vac test. But when topend is $20.....

Doug could you explain a little more in depth about this mod, or is there a video. I am ready to take the 51 completely down. I have the lower and upper end replacement parts you steered me on to. So, I should not use the head to crankcase gasket, reason, increased compression? What size should the impulse hole be, I would guess the same as the old head has in it? Any other tid bits of information you care to share would be deeply appreciated. Thanks.
 
Doug could you explain a little more in depth about this mod, or is there a video. I am ready to take the 51 completely down. I have the lower and upper end replacement parts you steered me on to. So, I should not use the head to crankcase gasket, reason, increased compression? What size should the impulse hole be, I would guess the same as the old head has in it? Any other tid bits of information you care to share would be deeply appreciated. Thanks.
There are many things that must be taken into consideration: squish for instance.

Use the search function on this site to learn what squish is, and how to set it.

Mastermind & TreeMonkey are good builders here that have made very good build threads. Take some time and learn how & what to measure.

The 51 to 55 conversion sounds straight forward: but be sure and get your ducks in a row.

When you get finished, you don't want the piston slapping the spark plug; like the saw one knucklehead shipped out of his shop.
 
When pull 51 cylinder, look on the bottom. You'll see a hole - it makes a 90* turn and comes out the side where impulse grommet and impulse tube of the bulkhead connect. That hole has to "see" the crankcase for impulse to work. That hole may need to be drilled bigger to hang over crankcase opening or hole sits on flat mag case = carb fuel pump doesn't work.
These cyls may come with a big squish (distance to cyl top when piston is TDC). Squish may greater than .030" with base gasket. Deleting gasket and using Permatex Motoseal as gasket can get squish down to .020". But you do not want piston to hit plug electrode! Search checking squish.
Check youtube Donyboy73 - he may have a video on this model.
 
Thanks hsell and Doug, I'll look over the Mastermind & TreeMonkey threads. I have watched some of Donyboy73 videos and seen the one you are referring to, I'll view it again, appreciate the info guys, I'll let you know how it all transpires.
 
Double J... you said:


"I am going into log cutting in a big way"

IMHO, then you need more than 1 saw. You probably need more than 5 saws. The day your saw craps out on you will be the day when warrantee doesn't mean crap. It'll be the day when you really needed it, and to not have a backup will mean work stops. Multiple backups in the saw world is relatively cheap. I have a sawmill myself, its just a hobby mill. I cut cants with my husky 350's as they come off the mill. I have multiple saws as backup because when I'm running the mill, I don't need to be worried about whether a saw is working or not. If a saw breaks down, grab another, get the saw fixed (warrantee or diy) some other day.

Best of luck w/ your mill and stay safe.
 
Hello guys, just want to let everyone know I found another site to glean information from, to find updated part and crossover numbers to all kinds of chainsaws as well as other machines, google search "parts tree.com". Many times you visit your locale dealer and the tell you the part is no longer available, it really "in truth it is available", they just don't have the resources we do now with this site. You could have a 30 year old saw that you can still get parts for. It's really awesome they also show pictorial parts brake downs, enjoy.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top