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Boskaerm

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In the work of rebuilding my husqvarna 365, I have just put the crank shaft in it! Then I discovered that the new crank, was some what bend !
So today I tried to check it with a micrometer clock! It moves 0.2 mm up and down, at the end, in the clutch side.
What do you guys think!
 
In the work of rebuilding my husqvarna 365, I have just put the crank shaft in it! Then I discovered that the new crank, was some what bend !
So today I tried to check it with a micrometer clock! It moves 0.2 mm up and down, at the end, in the clutch side.
What do you guys think!

I would replace it, hopefully you bought it from a dealer, and if so, hopefully they will give you a new one to replace the bent one.

Let us know how it works out. :cheers:
 
If you can clamp your run out gauge (clock dial type micrometer) on your case and slowly check the crankshaft movement, then try and mark the spot if it is the same, after a few revolutions with a dry type marker pen. Then try and move the gauge to read at a different point on the same side of the crankshaft and see if it is the same. Then try and check the flywheel side and see if there is any up and down or wobble at the same point on that side of the crankshaft. The crank on the output or clutch side takes the most abuse and has the most stress, so that is where there may be some normal wobble. If it is a consistent spot it may be counteracted by the clutch when it engages in the drum and most likely will not be very noticeable, or cause any severe engine damage. The clutch itself is not a high precision part, the shoe,and the drum both wear to odd shapes and wear patterns that are usually not at all noticeable when there is a load on the bar and chain which quells the vibration at the end of the crank. If this was a old saw of yours, did it have a huge amount of vibration before, and are the bearings in good or new condition. Unless there is a huge wobble on the other side of the crank this may not be to noticeable at all.
 
There is NO play in the main bearings, which are new! Is the end of the crank that moves very little, ,2 mm, up and down, when rotating the crank!

The crank is bought on e bay, from I dealer in UK.

The crank is new btw! Guess i'll try to check the fly wheel side!
 
Last edited:
In the work of rebuilding my husqvarna 365, I have just put the crank shaft in it! Then I discovered that the new crank, was some what bend !
So today I tried to check it with a micrometer clock! It moves 0.2 mm up and down, at the end, in the clutch side.
What do you guys think!

Thats almost .008 thou runout, its bent. Dont use it, send it back.
 
If you can clamp your run out gauge (clock dial type micrometer) on your case and slowly check the crankshaft movement, then try and mark the spot if it is the same, after a few revolutions with a dry type marker pen. Then try and move the gauge to read at a different point on the same side of the crankshaft and see if it is the same. Then try and check the flywheel side and see if there is any up and down or wobble at the same point on that side of the crankshaft. The crank on the output or clutch side takes the most abuse and has the most stress, so that is where there may be some normal wobble. If it is a consistent spot it may be counteracted by the clutch when it engages in the drum and most likely will not be very noticeable, or cause any severe engine damage. The clutch itself is not a high precision part, the shoe,and the drum both wear to odd shapes and wear patterns that are usually not at all noticeable when there is a load on the bar and chain which quells the vibration at the end of the crank. If this was a old saw of yours, did it have a huge amount of vibration before, and are the bearings in good or new condition. Unless there is a huge wobble on the other side of the crank this may not be to noticeable at all.




:msp_confused: WTF!
 
Straighten things out?

I don´t know what you payed for the crank. But it should be possible for at proper machine shop to straighten the crank again. At the same time you could ask them to spin the thing and maybe do a rough balancing of the crank. If you don´t know anyone with the shop and skills it may be to expensive to get it done with an invoice. Just a posibility! 0.2mm of is alot. It will be hard on the bearings. Might even selfdestruct in a short lifespan. How was the crank wrapped in shipping? Any signs of a drop mark on the box?
Let´s get updated.

Sorry to hear :(

Motorsen :popcorn:
 
Used to work a little in a Moto cross shop. We used to replace the connection rod in the cranks, and then after wards straighten it up, by the use of a aluminium "hammer" and a micrometer clock.

Guess they could maybe help, but the shop has got a new owner!
So don´t know what the price of the work would be!

The price, for the crank, was about 750 Dkr, including shipping.

Has writen with the seller, and he said I should send it back for inspection!
 
We build 2 stroke motors that put out 100's of horsepower in our shop not just 3 or 4 like a saw. There are many variables that effect a motor, clutches etc. Mr. super 3 the most technical thing you know about is that you can switch hands while surfing your Men's internet sites.

So you say: no worries?
 
We build 2 stroke motors that put out 100's of horsepower in our shop not just 3 or 4 like a saw. There are many variables that effect a motor, clutches etc. Mr. super 3 the most technical thing you know about is that you can switch hands while surfing your Men's internet sites.


Good for you.
.007 runout at the clutch mount isn't going to do the crank bearing any good.

That last part was real cute,tells a lot about you.
 
to say that crank wont hurt anything is just plain STUPID. 8 thou is ALOT for a saw crank to be out. i don't care how many high horse engines a particular shop builds or not. any builder worth their salt wants ALL parts to be PERFECT ---- for a reason--- balance. these things turn in excess of 12-130000 rpm, way more than a car engine OR a dirtbike engine, so balance is far more important. if he can get it properly straightened, i'd say use it. but fat chance you're going to find any machine shop that can pull that crank back in to spec., and actually have it proper without putting a bend someplace else in it.
to the guy who said that the crank will be no problem running it like it is, i say ####. keep your worthless, damaging opinions to yourself. ruin your own equipment.
 

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