SO the following is WORK SAW vs. Cookie/cutter GTG saw right? FIRST it's not only about the motor and motor mods and Its one that you carry into the woods and it better stay running. For me weight matters, there for bars like Sugi-Hara mean as much as the power bump. The saw needs to be supportable with parts you can actually get at a typical dealer. Especially those who travel from place to place to work, therefor has to be supportable with OEM parts. That is why I'm not a fan of saw builds with pop ups and the like where the internal geometry is altered to the point custom built parts are required to get it running should it fail. Certainly not a fan of aftermarket or different intake/carburetor parts. HAVE to be able to get carb kits! And rubber parts like intake boots, filters, and fuel lines STOCK that work. Torque and wider power bands vs. peak power and narrow power bands are what I attempt to get with more compression. And with squish related mods you get that compression/power along with a more efficient burn as the fuel/air mix is mostly pushed into the combustion chamber for a complete burn. I am not a fan of some porting strategies where bearing surface is lost therefor less stability in the piston AND less heat transfer away from the piston. I'm not a fan of loud saws anymore either, so muffler mods that match porting changes with screen (Spark arrestor screens) are better than hacking a hole in the front of a muffler as so many do. I still like "tube" modifications as I can add to my quality of life by directing the exhaust gas away from the work or from blowing chips back in my face.
SO increase in compression, squish set right for the displacement, possible raising or lowing of port to alter timing is OK vs. widening which isn't as "OK" for me. Don't mind "No Base gasket" build options as I'm convinced the right "gooey" gasket solution is as good if not better that a paper gasket.
A nice work saw build for me a a old style Husqvarna 372 with either a cut cylinder or no base gasket build with a Sugi-Hara bar, my port timing tweaks and my muffler mods... with a "low top" 365 style top cover /filter arraignment. Oh.. wait.. that's what I have! Only thing "out side the box" is both my works saws have larger than stock 70.5cc 50mm bores. One a Huztl 52mm cylinder and the other a 372XPW top end. Both have significantly more torque than the stockers... both are now proven reliable and serviceable over time.
One that I will be building/testing this winter is a 562xp with a compression bump, mild timing mods, and one of my typical muffler mods. That along with a light weight bar.
Work saw to me means one that has better power/weight ratio than stock while being easier to live with...things like starting, noise fatigue, vibration, serviceability, fuel usage, vibration, weight.... etc. all matter after a bunch of hours in the woods. It has to idle and NOT stall when it's seton the ground. Has to be a "One pull" restarter.. did I say low vibration & light weight???
Other things I like is ALL the saws on the truck using the same chain 3/8 Oregon LGX or 3/8 Stihl RS. One less set of files.
Last thought... a work saw concept is a "whole saw" concept. From tip of bar to the handle tweaking things to make life easier, and Damn it's hard to out engineer the true engineers!
