What neat trick, tip invention idea do you have to make things easy?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I find that not many people joint their chains to the shortest tooth before sharpening. It will shorten the life of a chain a little, but the cuts will be smoother and all cutters will be fully engaged.
 
I know that this level of saw knowledge may completely blow the more experienced woodsman away but here goes...

1) Sharpen your chain
2) Add oil to your fuel at the recommended ratios
3) A 35cc saw will not pull a 60" bar
4) A 35cc saw will not supply enough oil to a 60" bar
5) Try not to cut your leg off

6] top up chain oil when fuelling
 
Always use a long piece of heavy chain to pull logs. This way you can git a run at it! Remember to tie it to the front or rear axle and double check to make sure it is secure. Next, make sure you have some beer:cheers: and a cell phone. I have found this a very effective tool in upgrading to a better rig. Remember; it's ok if the wife calls you stupid cause you just got yer new truck.:msp_wink:

your being sarcastic,right??????
 
tips and tricks

All's I can say is that it was clearly a sight bit of an oversight on me and my buddies part!!
 
Bench vise for sharpening

If you use a bench vise to hold your saw when sharpening, clamp the bar so the chainsaw is upside down and the nose is pointing towards you. The cutters will be facing the correct direction and you won't have to reach over the saw. It's a comfort thing.
 
I'll add always keep a spare scrench in the truck!

And if you use a digital angle finder to check the drop to your depth gauges, I have found that mine fits between cutter and depth gauges on the 3/8 pitch chain, but not on .325. For .325, I position my flat file overlaying the tops of the cutter and depth gauge, and then set the DAF on top of the file to check the drop. This raises the DAF just enough to clear adjoining links, and I usually have the flat file handy anyway to set a reference height on one gauge each side before grinding them.
 
bar oil jug

instead of removing the foil seal on a jug of bar oil, just cut a triangular hole in the foil; this makes it so much easier to pour out of jug, no more big messes
 
When I want to do a vacuum/pressure test on a TC engine I remove the carb/muffler and put my fingers (thumb/index) over the openings (when the engine is big, seal the normal way). If the engine has a pulse line I will leave in the spark plug and suck/blow (mouth) into the pulse line. I don't think that holding pressure/vacuum for minutes is needed and you will know right away that a seal is leaking. When there is no pulse line then I remove the valve from the compression gauge hose and apply vacuum/pressure that way (cover the pulse hole).
 
I found that the spout or cap from a bottle of 80-w90 will fit on a jug of bar and chain oil. I had a coworker that drinks tea give me an empty honey container (clear, shaped like a bear). It's spout cap also fit on the b/c oil jug. This makes pouring the oil into your saw very easy and you don't have to put it in a different container.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top