What part of the bar to use?

[Aled Owen]

I've been given two tips on how to use the bar on chainsaws, my neighbor recommends me to use the back of the bar nearest to the engine so that the wood is touching the claw, this works fine and dandy on his Ryobi RCS3535a Chainsaw and I'm pretty happy with that.

On the other hand, I was using a much powerful chainsaw this morning which has a bar about 18" long and an engine about 45cc (it was some unbranded Chinese one), my "colleagues" told me to use all the bar when cutting the wood and told me to use the tip of the bar more.

I'm kind of confused on which method to use, does it depend specifically on the saw or does it not actually matter?

 

[tree md]

what part of the bar to use is dependent on what kind of cut you are making. There is no one cutting method that is going to work for every situation. The best leverage point's and how and when to use them on different typs of cuts will come with experience.

The main point I want to get across to you is using the tip of your bar can be very dangerous. There is much more potential for kick back using the tip of the bar. Always be aware of what is around the tip of your bar. Hitting an unseen limb in the woodpile with the tip of the bar can cause a violent kickback and end in a severe injury. always be mindful of what your bar is around. Hit some chain link or barbwire fence and it can cause some serious kickback as well.

 

[Aled Owen]

So if I made sure there are no branches or anything the saw can cut into in front of the log I'm cutting and that the log I'm cutting is near or touching the claw it should be alright? I'm usually going to be just making firewood with it so the bar will be pretty much horizontal.

Is it recommended to have the chainsaw at full throttle before the blade makes contact with the wood or should the blade be resting on the wood before I press the accelerator? So far I've had it resting on the blade but with this chainsaw I've been using today the saw didn't seem to like that method and I had to start throttling before I touched the wood. It's a heavy saw and it didn't feel too safe that way (considering I had people near me).

 

[TreePointer]

Watch this video to have your questions answered:

Chapter 5: Operating Your Chain Saw

In fact, watch all videos, chapters 1-5. This information is also in most modern chainsaw manuals. Some of it goes a little slow, but bear with it because this information may keep you from getting injured.

 

[tree md]

Yes, for cutting saw logs rev the saw before you make the cut, cut with the underside of the bar and use the bucking dogs, "claws", to leverage the saw.

Be advised that using the tip of the bar for making plunge cuts in big wood will make the bar want to kick back. Plunge cutting is more advanced and is not necessary for most firewood cutting so I would not try it until you have learned more about how the saw will react when making different types of cuts. It's fine to use the tip of the bar to cut off small limbs or making undercuts on limbs/logs with tension on them but get a little time under your belt with a saw before you try any fancy cutting.

 

[Aled Owen]

Thanks very much for the information guys, it's been very useful and has cleared many of my safety questions.

 

[EdenT]

It's a heavy saw and it didn't feel too safe that way (considering I had people near me).

One more thing Aled Owen. It is vitally important that when you are using a chainsaw you do not allow anyone to come within 10' of you. That means they don't hold the wood, or arrange it for you, or even watch you from close quarters. This rule applies to professionals and even more so to casual users of this equipment. Chains can break and fly off, kickbacks can occur, or just someone moves unexpectedly and the worst can happen in a second.

 

[rarefish383]

Is it recommended to have the chainsaw at full throttle before the blade makes contact with the wood

Yes, we had a couple big 100cc saws that were really powerful and every now and then one of the guys would set the chain on the wood and then grab the throttle. It snatched the saw into the log so violently that it smashed the fuel tank and we had to replace them, Joe.

 

[Aled Owen]

This is how I'm cutting with the chainsaw at the moment:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dqMcGlEIY4

I need to build myself a log stand which is higher up so I don't have to bend down to cut the wood, I try to position myself so that the saw is to the right hand side of me so that if the blade comes off (which it did, though luckily it stays on the saw) it doesn't collide with my body.

 

[North by Northwest]

Hey Guys I'am just new to the Site and have narrowed down the purchase of a New Saw to either a Husky Rancher 455 or a Stil Farm Boss 310 . 18-20 in Bar. My question is does any online Supplier offer discounted pricing on quality saws that you would recommend or is it better to Buy from a Local Dealer. I have used my Old Pioneers for yrs and its about time for a Newer Saw with some Safety Features and a little lighter Product. I'am a Retired Diesel Mechanic do most of my own repairs and maintenance..Thanx !

 

[ATH]

.....My question is does any online Supplier offer discounted pricing on quality saws that you would recommend or is it better to Buy from a Local Dealer....

Husqvarna and Stihl won't allow their saws to be sold online... That doesn't mean there aren't other good saws online but if you have a decent local dealer, go with them. Check out site sponsor Baileys.

 

[North by Northwest]

Husqvarna and Stihl won't allow their saws to be sold online... That doesn't mean there aren't other good saws online but if you have a decent local dealer, go with them. Check out site sponsor Baileys.

Thanx Dude for the candid info , I have seen Husky on some online Box Store Sites but have heard that they often are rebuilt (refurbished) or discontinued models. I was looking for a established and respected online source , I will take your advice . Interesting enough a yr ago I was looking at Solo Saws which I understand are German in Origin and been around for a while . I have a Dealer in own who has both the Commercial (Hobby) and Professional Grade Saws from Solo which Baileys advertises . I have had my Pioneers for 45 yrs so I suppose I may look Professional with Magnesium Cases rather than Plastic..Thank you again for your time much appreciated.

 

[Bermie]

This is how I'm cutting with the chainsaw at the moment:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dqMcGlEIY4

I need to build myself a log stand which is higher up so I don't have to bend down to cut the wood, I try to position myself so that the saw is to the right hand side of me so that if the blade comes off (which it did, though luckily it stays on the saw) it doesn't collide with my body.

Hey Aled, if you are really keen to be a reasonably safe and competent saw operator, find a training outfit or College near you that offers the Lantra +/or NPTC short course, Chainsaw Maintenance & Operation...in two to three days you'll learn all you need to know to use that saw to cut firewood safely and do basic saw maintenance. A lot of those courses are funded too, so you may get it at a discount or free if things work out...

 

[Wishie22]

This is how I'm cutting with the chainsaw at the moment:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2dqMcGlEIY4

I need to build myself a log stand which is higher up so I don't have to bend down to cut the wood, I try to position myself so that the saw is to the right hand side of me so that if the blade comes off (which it did, though luckily it stays on the saw) it doesn't collide with my body.

Welcome to the site Aled Owen

First
Use the chain brake when you are done with your cut, in the vid it did not look like you used it at all. It is a good habit to have, ever see a chainsaw rev up on its own (most do when running out of fuel).
Trade your sneakers in for steal toe boots/or chainsaw approved boots
Get yourself some safety chaps.
A nice helmet with ear and face shield.

I guess what I am saying is get your self some Personal Protective Equipment (PPE).

Glad you are here researching info. Some of the recommendations of your colleagues seem to be dangerous and could be fatal if not used in the correct manor.

Stay safe.

 

[pwoller]

The safety video has flippy caps in it, boooo, that must have been why they said if you spill any fuel or oil on yourself to change clothing immediatly.. It be much more helpful if it didn't. Other then that it was very good.

 

[Aled Owen]

Welcome to the site Aled Owen

First
Use the chain brake when you are done with your cut, in the vid it did not look like you used it at all. It is a good habit to have, ever see a chainsaw rev up on its own (most do when running out of fuel).
Trade your sneakers in for steal toe boots/or chainsaw approved boots
Get yourself some safety chaps.
A nice helmet with ear and face shield.

I guess what I am saying is get your self some Personal Protective Equipment (PPE).

Glad you are here researching info. Some of the recommendations of your colleagues seem to be dangerous and could be fatal if not used in the correct manor.

Stay safe.

Thanks for all the info

That specific saw has been known to start revving on it's own, always when I start it however, I've started to use the chain brake more often (when I started using chainsaws I didn't use it at all, yikes!) but I still need to get into the habit of using it all the time.

I'm buying my own chainsaw soon (the one in the video was borrowed) which will probably be a Shindaiwa 269t or a Stihl of some sort, I'm gonna make sure to buy protective gear when I get it.

I also have a question about dropstarting, I know it's wrong on a rear handled chainsaw and that Ryobi in the video dosen't let me anyway, I use groin starts or foot starting, on a top handled chainsaw is dropstarting still frowned upon or would it be safer because the operator potentially has more control on the direction of the bar.

 

[Bermie]

However you start your saw, start it with the chainbrake on.
Drop starting is....what we do to save time...but you can injure yourself if it doesn't go well.

As for a top handle saw, if you are in the UK, unles you buy one from a friend, you technically cannot buy one without having your tree climbers ticket as they are manufactured specifically for use aloft in a tree.

Really, try and find a training course and you'll have ALL your questions answered and be equipped with sufficient skills and knowledge to be a competent beginner!