Where should I set the L & H Screws and Idle Mix to Start Adjustments

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Larry Johnson

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Trying to get a Poulan 2375 Wild Thang saw started and adjusted. Last year I got [the landfill find] running after replacing the fuel line, filter, air filter, plug, cleaning, new fuel. Idle speed was never adjusted properly and it's always been a bear to start. Pulled it from the shed today, put in gas, and some down the carb. First pull it fired very briefly, but nothig since then. I checked the spark with a tester and appears to be good, not great though. How should I set the idle and L/H screws to get it running. Sound like a coil issue? I'm not much of a mechanic, so please don't use slang that only a mechanic would understand. Thanks.
 
Yes from lightly seated turn the jets out about 1.5 turns.


Hows compression and carb? set H-L approx 1 1/4 - 1/ 1/2 to start, turn idle a few turns in to keep it running while setting H-L...

Guys, thanks for taking time to reply, but please explain in more detail. How's the compression and carb? what the hell does that mean. What are you asking? I have know idea how the compresion is or even how to check it. When I pull the cord, there's compression. that's all I can tell you.
set H-L 1 1/4, one and one-quarter from what? Are you saying those screws should be turned all the way in and then backed out one and one-quarter turns?
At this point, I'm trying to get the engine running. I can't make adjustments until it starts. How do I go about setting the screws to get it running so it can be tuned?
I watched a video and will test the coil tomorrow if I get a chance. I think I did that last year.
 
That's what they're saying. Lightly turn both screws in until you feel them bump. Don't tighten them up tight, just until you feel them hit or bump the seat, then back each one out 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 turns.
 
compression and carb?
Compression...Saw may not start with under 100lbs of compression, comp testers that screw in to plug hole are available,,, Carb...If it has not been cleaned/rebuilt, it could have a stuck needle valve and flood or the diaphrams could be too hard or torn to pump or seal... Flooding is seen as a wet spark plug (or be the result of no spark if the coil or wires are shot).... Bad diaphragms would show as a dry plug, requiring a carb cleaning and rebuild...
Google terms you don't understand...
 
You might read this thread about where I was recently flogging one of those strato Poulans.

Turn the idle screw (not the jet) all the way in when trying to get a run. (set the H & L to about 1/ 1/4 and crank if no go set both too 2 turns, etc. Make sure it has a good corrct spark plug gapped at .030.
Easy to check your ignition. Remove the spark plug ground it's threads and crank with in a darkened room. On some the fire is so white you cannot see it in bright light room.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/poulan-p4018-no-idle.319098/#post-6517460
 
Hows compression and carb? set H-L approx 1 1/4 - 1/ 1/2 to start, turn idle a few turns in to keep it running while setting H-L...

Pulled the carb and opened up both ends. Found the bowl(?) on the left filled with fine sawdust. Did further cleaning after taking pic.

Tested the coil by disconnecting the wire at the coil and watching for a spark on a tester. Saw spark with Start switch in On and Off positions. Does that mean a bad coil or bad start/stop switch?

Untitled by Larry Johnson, on Flickr
 

After regapping the coil and removing the muffler, I managed to get it running enough to finish what I needed to do. Ran it without the muffler. Then I put the muffler on and did a little at the neighbors. Started ok when warm.
The first pull on the cold engine always seems to be the best attempt at starting. I'm thinking it's getting too much fuel. Maybe that's my fault for leaving it on choke and pulling too many times.
There was a bunch of fuel in the muffler. What's causing that and how do I fix it. New carb?
 
Trying to get a Poulan 2375 Wild Thang saw started and adjusted. Last year I got [the landfill find] running after replacing the fuel line, filter, air filter, plug, cleaning, new fuel. Idle speed was never adjusted properly and it's always been a bear to start. Pulled it from the shed today, put in gas, and some down the carb. First pull it fired very briefly, but nothig since then. I checked the spark with a tester and appears to be good, not great though. How should I set the idle and L/H screws to get it running. Sound like a coil issue? I'm not much of a mechanic, so please don't use slang that only a mechanic would understand. Thanks.
I have the same saw that I use for firewood and stuff around the house and small jobs I set all three screws too one full turn and I prime the carborator with a small cap of 2 cycle gas usually 40:1 and go from there the Jets require a 21 tooth spline carborator adjustment tool. Depending on your saw I'd also run a small amount of marvel mystery oil though it as well in the first run because I know mine needs it every so often anyways

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
 
Im about to fix a built in 2004 Wild Thing 2375 with rotted gas lines. Opened the carb. Clean as a pin. NO SCREEN. I have never seen one with no screen. I didn't drop it out. While I had the carb off I cut the H and L screw heads to fit a flat Screw driver. Now looking for GOOD gas lines. Air filter is gone. I'll make one. A Ladies Stocking and a good fuel resident foam outta do the trick. I use a fish hook remover tool to pull lines through.
 
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