White Pine milling

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I found a 51 on ebay back in 09 , no run the muffler was plugged up ,and easey cook and clean . so question is can you make it in to a 76 or ?

I guess it depends on the 051. A 076 or an 075 have studs not bolts holding the cylinder on. You 051 will have 5MM bolts and you'd have to get the 6mm studs and change them. I borrowed this photo from blsnelling thread.
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The other difference is the front of the saw where the chain brake would be. some have ear for the brake and some don't. Another cosmetic difference is the oiler hole. Some were on the top and others on the side 076 were on the side. Yet another difference is the auxiliary oiler push button the 051 didn't come with them.
 
The last 4 digits on the case are 0810. I'm not sure if that matters. I will post better pics tomorrow.

Well I have finally split the case I have the is the same part number as yours. It can be converted but your gonna have to split the case an remove the plate that's over the oiler. I would replace the bearings while your already in there. I'll post some pictures
later.
 
here's the pics
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betterbuilt-albums676-176835.jpg

This case really only needs the oil sump and a pump to be converted.

I think Trever needs to drill out the hole where the arrow is if he wants and oiler to work.
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I'm gonna post better pictures for Trever before I go any further so he will know exactly where the oiler hole comes out.
 
Drill baby drill!

Betterbuilt,

Thank you for your pics. I am thinking I will ease into that hole with about a 1/8" bit and see what it looks like. Then I will ease up a couple of sizes from there. That screw hole is right on where the oil should enter the oiler. Just make sure there are no burrs after you drill. Hope all is going well. Starting to warm up over here. By the way, I guess the 160th is permanent party here and just rotates soldiers in and out. Take care and have a blessed day.

Trever
 
Mine doesn't need drilled, that plate was covering the hole. The hole is a little smaller than an 1/8 inch. I'll get some pics of the hole.

We were rotating about every 60 to 90 days back then. I miss it a little. Don't forget to drink water. Take care of yourself and get home safe. You'll be in my thoughts. Bill
 
For consideration may I suggest eliminating the powerhead oiler all together. This would be for a designated big bar mill saw only of course. One less thing to have to watch and fill. The aux. oiler takes it's place. Then again I don't have a factory oiler on my big bar mill. I understand while it's apart and all and necessity being the mother of invention. Something tells me this is not going to go over very well.:D
 
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For consideration may I suggest eliminating the powerhead oiler all together. This would be for a designated big bar mill saw only of course. One less thing to have to watch and fill. The aux. oiler takes it's place. Then again I don't have a factory oiler on my big bar mill. I understand while it's apart and all and necessity being the mother of invention. Something tells me this is not going to go over very well.:D

I'm actually build three 076's and one isn't gonna have an oiler. I'm gonna run .325 .063 because they never made a rim for the 076 that is .325. I figure i could change the drum and cut some stone with it. The only reason I want the oiler to work is because of resale value and I can still use it to cut big firewood. The oiler parts for the 076 are getting harder to find because they are NLA. I'd say I agree with you Timberframe. I like driving a car without any extras there's less to go wrong.
 
Betterbuilt, Rig the oil tank filler with a standard spigot thread and put an ICS bar on it. Stihl 090 mount. With a twinmax diamond chain you're ready to slab stone! That's really all there is to it. When you think about it that's what our ancestors did for thousands of years. Put rocks and trees together to build places like this.
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And this
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Yet Mother Nature did it like this
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Mine doesn't need drilled, that plate was covering the hole. The hole is a little smaller than an 1/8 inch. I'll get some pics of the hole.

We were rotating about every 60 to 90 days back then. I miss it a little. Don't forget to drink water. Take care of yourself and get home safe. You'll be in my thoughts. Bill

Thanks Bill. Have a blessed day.

Trever
 
Thanks Betterbuilt , how hard is is it to find the studs and cyl kit. the 51 would be home on a 36" mill though just stock . Ive put it on my 60 " in oak and it just needs more torque . what is the 160th
 
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Thanks Betterbuilt , how hard is is it to find the studs and cyl kit. the 51 would be home on a 36" mill though just stock . Ive put it on my 60 " in oak and it just needs more torque . what is the 160th

The studs are not hard to get. There's tons of burned up TS760 around. The cylinders run from 150 for after market to 380 for OEM. I'm trying one of each and I'll let you know how they work. I'm pretty impressed with the aftermarket one I have so far. The 160th is a Army Special Operations Aviation Regiment. The movie Black Hawk Down was made about them.
 
truck jack

You're very welcome. I will get someone to video my using it sometime. I am on the lookout for a Hi Lift jack now!! I need to get these logs off the ground. I am researching a few posts on this.

I haven't done any milling yet, but I routinely lift up multiple ton firewood logs with a twenty dollar three ton truck jack. If you went a few more bucks you could get one of the low profile flatter ones that have a larger lifting head and you don't need as much clearance under the log to get started.

Now if I screwed up and it don't land on cross branches I have laid out, or if it is a blowdown, and is flat on the ground to start, yes, that sucks, but all you need is a shovel and a pick at one end. Once you get the clearance, then slip some stout boards under there (the jack needs lateral support so it don't sink into the ground), then slide in the jack, center as dead on as you can, then pick it up, block it with wood chunks, let it down, move it. Just go back and forth down the log then. I always try to raise my logs before cross cutting.

Another trick is take a hardwood branch chunk, and cut it at a sharp angle, then you can use it as a giant wedge and sledge hammer that thing under the log (start at the light end obviously). Surprisingly easy and effective if the branch is nice and strong and don't bust on ya...you can work both sides right next to each other as well, to get an even lift and minimize log scooting or rolling with one home made wedge being just a scosh narrower and sharper than the other, put that one on the smaller end of the log side.

From there, just work back and forth with some more cut branch pieces like that, increasing in size, until you can get the jack under it.
 
we use one of the 6 ton high lift , i cut a notch in the top third of the log that keeps it from roiling , tip of the bar and 1/2" deep . Ive added a 8"x10" x1/4" flat plate with some weld bead to the bottom of the jack. works rely sweet, but very heavy. Better built the house camo ? i missed it the first time saw the chair
 
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we use one of the 6 ton high lift , i cut a notch in the top third of the log that keeps it from roiling , tip of the bar and 1/2" deep . Ive added a 8"x10" x1/4" flat plate with some weld bead to the bottom of the jack. works rely sweet, but very heavy. Better built the house camo ? i missed it the first time saw the chair

That's Kirkeg's House its tucked in to some hemlocks. His house is pretty cool it's straw bale and it has a rocket stove. He can heat it for a week with what I use in a day and my wood stove is pretty efficient.
 
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