Why can't I sharpen my chain!?

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Looks like a lot of hook but not down to the line . File might be to small , I always put the bottom of the file at the bottom of the cutter line . I see a lot of steel left in that area . And a little makes a big difference
What is the line you refer too ? I dont round file a lot i usually chisel grind,that was a 7/32 file i was told thats the size for my .404. are you refering to cleaning the gullet ? I didn't clean the gullet in that image to show the curve of the file ,i dont like too much hook myself ,chain gets too graby .
 
How does this look a combo of hf grinder and a dremmel
 

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What is the line you refer too ? I dont round file a lot i usually chisel grind,that was a 7/32 file i was told thats the size for my .404. are you refering to cleaning the gullet ? I didn't clean the gullet in that image to show the curve of the file ,i dont like too much hook myself ,chain gets too graby .
I was going to show the line I fallow
 
How does this look a combo of hf grinder and a dremmel
Tooth and gullet look as though they will cut fine, the raker should be filed/ground with about a 10 degree angle going down hill away from the tooth (the opposite way yours is angled).

Where's the OP, is the chain sharpened yet, he could have sent them to Philbert for full diagnostics and he would have sharpened them and had them back by now :D.
OP, I think it's great your asking for help, your getting an education on sharpening that many will never get.
 
Where's the OP, is the chain sharpened yet, he could have sent them to Philbert for full diagnostics and he would have sharpened them and had them back by now :D.

Funny enough, I temporarily "gave up" and sent the chain to Phil two days ago! In the mean time I've ordered a raker filing guide. I'll be sure to study the chain once I have it back from Phil and post some pics.

Thanks for all the help.
 
Funny enough, I temporarily "gave up" and sent the chain to Phil two days ago! In the mean time I've ordered a raker filing guide. I'll be sure to study the chain once I have it back from Phil and post some pics.

Thanks for all the help.
Awesome, looking forward to seeing some pictures of the big ole chips it throws when he's done with it :chainsaw:.
 
A: indicates that you could have a bigger gullet. If the cutting edge is a little blunt the cutting edge will last much longer in certain cutting conditions. When I have dirty wood or real hard dry hardwood this shape is not bad. C: indicates that the ideal shape for most cutting needs. To achieve this shape one needs to lift up on the file slightly causing the cutting edge to be next to razor sharp. If the cutting as some say is too grabby then there are other issues that should be looked at. The rakers are responsible to how fast the wood is fed to the chain which might make a cut process feel grabby. If the rakers are too high the chain will dull extra fast because the cutters will skim over the wood more causing the cutters to get nicked quick. Most cutters like the chain to instantly pull with chips flying. B: The rakers look like a problem to me. I file them flat of my chains and they look real high. I gauge the length of the rakers to determine if they are too high or low. I do know some that file theirs at a angle with keeping a point on the rakers. I have done it both ways and if the height is right it should not matter very much. Thanks
 

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Your going to have to look close at the red line I call the file line . Every saw chain I seen has this line . About like sawing wood when framing a house stay on the line an stuff fits good . Been using a dremel for a long time to stay on this line use the right shims an stones for chain size . I check the raker height with a fileoplate . No matter what tool used for sharping for great results use the line .
 
The reason to take the rakers down ? Notice the downward slope as the cutter is filed shorter at the end of the cutter life the raker might be higher . The life of a saw chain means keeping the cutter just grabbing the right amount of wood . Get a raker gauge an use it
 
Diagnosis from the Chain Doctor . . .

Received 2 chains from the OP today (.325 narrow kerf: one Carlton/WoodlandPRO; one Husqvarna/Oregon). Pretty standard stuff. Normally I say that you can't tell what is going on until the chain is cleaned, but in these cases, the caked on crud showed where the leading corners had scraped against something, and were abraded. This causes the cutters to be pushed away from the wood, instead of into it.

Screen shot 2018-04-06 at 10.51.28 PM.png

Normally this problem is associated more with full chisel chain, but the same principle also applies to these semi-chisel cutters.

Screen shot 2018-04-06 at 10.51.42 PM.png

Same chain after a relaxing bath at the chain spa - a little harder to see. This will simply be ground back to the original cutter profile, and then the depth gauges will be adjusted for the new cutter length. Lots of usable life left. Some people like to complain that 'grinders take off too much metal!', but the damaged portion needs to be removed, whether using a grinder, a file, a rotary tool, etc. I have to wait for the weather to warm up a few degrees (13°F now) since I like to grind outside.

Screen shot 2018-04-06 at 10.51.50 PM.png

Grinding can't help this tooth cut (but I really did not notice it until after cleaning the chain)!
Screen shot 2018-04-06 at 10.51.58 PM.png

Philbert
 
Diagnosis from the Chain Doctor . . .

Received 2 chains from the OP today (.325 narrow kerf: one Carlton/WoodlandPRO; one Husqvarna/Oregon). Pretty standard stuff. Normally I say that you can't tell what is going on until the chain is cleaned, but in these cases, the caked on crud showed where the leading corners had scraped against something, and were abraded. This causes the cutters to be pushed away from the wood, instead of into it.

View attachment 644791

Normally this problem is associated more with full chisel chain, but the same principle also applies to these semi-chisel cutters.

View attachment 644796

Same chain after a relaxing bath at the chain spa - a little harder to see. This will simply be ground back to the original cutter profile, and then the depth gauges will be adjusted for the new cutter length. Lots of usable life left.

Some people like to complain that 'grinders take off too much metal!', but the damaged portion needs to be removed, whether using a grinder, a file, a rotary tool, etc. I have to wait for the weather to warm up a few degrees (13°F now) since I like to grind outside.

View attachment 644802

Grinding can't help this tooth cut (but I really did not notice it until after cleaning the chain)!
View attachment 644812

Philbert
Man, somebody seriously abused those! It’s a chainsaw, not a rototiller!:eek:
 
Man, somebody seriously abused those! It’s a chainsaw, not a rototiller!

I see chains like this all the time. The baked on gunk could be from using cheap bar and chain oil; from cutting in dirty conditions; from cutting with a dull chain; etc. That's why I am a firm believer in cleaning chains, despite the snarky comments: 'running that chain in a little clean wood' is not gonna clean it!

Damaged corners are a fact of life. Easy to find surprises in the wood, or accidentally hit a stone.

The broken cutter might have a story to tell. Usually see damage to a few cutters before and after a broken one, but not on this loop.

Philbert
 
I am constantly running into hardware in the trees around here. Nails galore. I have one forester brand chain that has like 4 cutters broken off. I keep it for crappy work. Still cuts fine, I just consider it "semi skip" now lol.
 
I see chains like this all the time. The baked on gunk could be from using cheap bar and chain oil; from cutting in dirty conditions; from cutting with a dull chain; etc. That's why I am a firm believer in cleaning chains, despite the snarky comments: 'running that chain in a little clean wood' is not gonna clean it!

Damaged corners are a fact of life. Easy to find surprises in the wood, or accidentally hit a stone.

The broken cutter might have a story to tell. Usually see damage to a few cutters before and after a broken one, but not on this loop.

Philbert
I hope we get to see some pics of the chain when it is done!!!
 

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