Nope, connect to the impulse hose
Why no gas to carb? MS260
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Nope, connect to the impulse hose
Thanks this makes it so much easier to grab a cheep one
manual for 064,066 lists same pressure for both pressure & vacuum @0.5 bar 7.25 psi. prolly same for all the stihl saws. welcome to the site
I'm going to order one of the MV8500 kit for $59 free shipping then in future when I need to do brakes won't have to ask wife to do the break pedal pump thing.. do now I need to find rubber to block ports off with then should be all set...
merc_man
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A little off topic but for the self brake bleed i fill a bottle half full of brake fluid then run hose to bleed nipple . Make sure hose stays in fluid and fill resivor on vehicle. Then just pump brakes till bubbles stop. Repeat all four wheels and good to go. It does help to have some one tell you when bubles stop but have done on my own many times.
Back on subject, good choice with the mighty vac 8500
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Inner tubes are the bees knee. A piece or two behind the muffler and another behind the carb. Impulse hose to the pump and rock on.
yea merc that is how I used to bleed brakes I have one of those kits in the shop now.. I think I will put this saw aside till the pump gets here and take a look at the other running saw.... I hope I didn't get screwed here I paid $225 for the 2 saws he was asking $300 for the saws but I held cash out in front of him and he took it the running saw is all OEM I looked in the exhaust port and the piston and cylinder look mint
SteveSr
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... And hope that the spark plug doesn't leak! There is a reason for t hat o-ring on those spark plug adapters!
well is there a source just for an adapter?
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Grabbed a few of these out of the cold, cruel shop.....SteveSr
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Dr. Google is your friend...
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An evil dark friend, with a lot of girlie pics/movies......
BigRed96
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OP, I noticed you asking about what numbers to use( max pressure, max vacuum) when performing the tests. This info is all available in the service manual. Did you use the service manual when you rebuilt the saw?
If not I would get one first then I would dump fuel down the carb that was mentioned multiple times, then I would worry about the vacuum test and pressure test. This would also be the most economical route as someone on here will send you a copy of the manual for free and most people messing with a chainsaw have some mixed fuel handy.
If not I would get one first then I would dump fuel down the carb that was mentioned multiple times, then I would worry about the vacuum test and pressure test. This would also be the most economical route as someone on here will send you a copy of the manual for free and most people messing with a chainsaw have some mixed fuel handy.
I just got a copy of manual this evening.. I watched a you tube vid to put the top end on I have 3 types of mixed gas 1 for my stihl 4 stroke weed whacker 1 for my sled and 1 for my chainsaws and wifes mantis I get aviation fuel from the airport for all 3... I fully understand pouring gas in carb as long as you have spark motor should fire but I'm not so sure it will tell me why gas is going up the fuel line to the carb but not getting sucked into the carb... I was going to set this one aside and have a look at the other saw I have but instad pulled the fly wheel to see if the key was ok and it is I don't see any obvious damage to seal but looks like not so nice to get it out to replace if needed
-22F Sunday morning, and +34F noon today. 30 degree change in 12 hours, 50 degree change in 48 hours.
Lose all interest in going to garage when its less than about 20F unless its more heavy type work.
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Found my 026/ms260 tool....
yea harley that looks like it would do it... I cut a couple pieces of rubber today and modified a screwdriver to pull seals out I will just go ahead and replace them but first I want to do the pressure test they just shipped the pump today I hope it gets here by the end of the week.. I did the muffler mos for the other saw while I was out in the shop today maybe will start it tomorrow and set the carb up
SteveSr
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Better learn what a correctly tuned saw should sound like at WOT. Search this forum for "tuning" and you should find plenty of threads. Too lean unloaded will cause overspeed which can damage the bearings. Too lean loaded will burn up the top end - what likely happened to your other saw.
Even though the WTE carb has 3 screws it mat be severely limited on actual mixture adjustment range. Thank the EPA for this. It may not have enough range to cover your muffler mod and you may be in danger of being too lean. The Wt-194 doesn't have this limitation as it is a much older design, pre-EPA.
I also had an MS290 I had picked up last spring it would not idle and when I could get it running it would bog down badly I ended up rebuilding the carb and tinkerd with the settings... that saw ran great all summer idles fine starts right up and no bogging I had done the carb and muffler mod on it I just sold it a few weeks ago in favor of the 260 and I also had a couple poulins and a few mccullochs in the past I still have a craftsman it's like the poulins I had I've been running a wood stove for heat now for about 30 years so I have a rough idea how a saw should sound and run I have just never rebuilt them usually if they blow up or wear out I toss them and get another
I put the WT 194 on the parts saw and ended up putting a wt-426 with no limiters on the running saw so I could do the mod on adjusting high speed for wot I usually lean them out till they sound smooth then richen it up still is just starts to break up slightly that seems to work
I put the WT 194 on the parts saw and ended up putting a wt-426 with no limiters on the running saw so I could do the mod on adjusting high speed for wot I usually lean them out till they sound smooth then richen it up still is just starts to break up slightly that seems to work
