won't idle...

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Hey Jordan,,,,

Gotta lil problem to work through on one of my projects so my schedule is dynamically changing & hinged on putting this Issue to rest,,,,, basically I am stuck here until I resolve it ,,,,, will post or send you a PM when I see a little daylight,,,,

May end up shipping it which is no biggie,,, I will walk you through it if it gets to that,,,,

Hang in there,,,,

River
 
no problem man

no problem...i hope you get it all figured out...and i can relate to seeing daylight not so often....(engineering student...sheeesh!,...what was i thinking!!!)...keep me informed please, and if we do meet in person, and time allows, id be honored to buy you dinner and learn from you at the same time...
 
WOAH! cr@p!!!!

did i really increase the area that much...!?!?!? ....man, i knew something was going to happen that night just from the fact i was so rushed:monkey: ...big nono!!! arggh:chainsaw: - atleast it would be cheaper fix, but question i have is would that much free flow cuase that kind of a problem....i mean it makes sense in my head, but i've never dealt with it first hand....thanks for pointing that out though...atleast i have one problem determined.......(kickeing self....:buttkick: :buttkick: :buttkick: ....
 
scotclayshooter said:
Hi Brad no one asked how big a hole he put in the muffler, I seem to remember you had some idle problems when you went 250% of port area.
Cant find that post now grrr
Click to expand...

Funny you mention that. I just welded in a piece of steel and redid that muffler cover on Saturday. I wouldn't be surprised if it was more like 300%. The saw would idle, but it just wasn't consistent. I couldn't get it to hold a tune. I haven't run it since the repair.
 
Brownpot Deaton, no reason to beat yourself up here. You messed up, you know it, and now you're trying to fix it. I'm 39 years old and am still teaching myself to slow down. I want to get stuff done yesterday. Even when it's something I enjoy. I just go at it like crazy. I'm no expert, but I'm going to throw some things out there for you to check.

When widening your ports, did you make sure that you stayed within the edges of the skirt? You can check just by watching the piston go up and down and making sure you see no air gap.

Did you lower the exhaust port? That's something you normally don't want to do. Especially when removing the base gasket, you may open the exhaust port with the piston at TDC. Just make sure you have no airgap below the skirt of the piston when it goes all the way up to TDC.

Did you raise or lower the intake port? There no need to if you're removing the base gasket. Intake timing is measured at the bottom of the port. So when you removed the gasket, you already increased your intake timing. Also make sure you don't have an air gap above the piston at BDC on the intake side.

Get yourself some thin electrical solder. It's the soft stuff. You can't easily use plumbing solder. It's too hard to squish. With the cylinder bolted down, stick one piece all the way into the spark plug hole until it hits the cylinder wall. Hold it there. Bend a U in another piece. Stick it in the hole and pull it back so that the other end of the U is pulled agains the near cylinder wall. Hold this piece so that it doesn't move away from the wall. You need to do both opposing walls at the same time so that the piston doesn't rock in the bore and give you a falsely large reading. Now pull the starter rope slowly. You should feel the piston hit the solder. Go ahead and pull it through the resisitance. I usually turn it over a couple times. Now remove the solder. It should be obvious where the piston squished the solder. This is what you need to measure. The closest I have set one to is .016" on MS260. If yours is less than this, you need a base gasket of some thickness.

Your problem may simply be that you opened your muffler too much. Take some hard uncooked spaghetti. Keep sticking sticks of it into the exhaust port until it's full. Pull it out. Typically, you don't want the total of your exhaust openings in the muffler to be more than 125% of the "area" of the exhaust port. You can calculate this as simply as counting the number of sticks of spaghetti and multipling by 1.25. If you go too large, usually above 150%, it will affect the useability of the saw, and in particular, the idle. Hope some of this helps.
 
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Do not be discouraged!!!

I can attest that messing up while diving into your first port job is part of the program. However, as all of the previos posters can verify through helping me through my processes with a Dolmar and Stihl, if you stick with it you will have an unbelievable saw that will cause you to look back at your calamities with a giddy, uncontrollable smile. Your second and subsequent saws will be that much easier and better.

BTW, what college of engineering are you in? I'm working with a few A&M faculty members in the ABE and CE programs.
 
kool....

blsnelling. thanks for the support, kinda stressed here with school and some other issues, it's really good to be told that. thanks.
no that im back....
as for the exhuast, i measured on the piston with pencil many times durring the process, and even after bolted down, it's not so wide it is outside the skirts, nor so low it's below it.
intake: i touched it barely( few seconds really, then realized i had no idea what to do if i did try that) but didn't do anything.no gap above when i checked it.
transfers: i took the little bulges the blocks flow from crank, located at inside base of jug,(don't have a pic, but if you toaken a 359 apart, you know what it is), and ...how do i describe it....:monkey: ....i took the covers off and ground the transfers material toward the cylinderbut left it like a curved tube in shape(if air flowing was your pinky, just curl your pinky and that is about the same shap(but i have skinny fingers)...but i didn't touch the upper sections much at all so as not to screw up flow( i did widen it just a little, but was reall nervous knowing this could screw things up bad, but after finishing, i'm certain i didn't affect them because before hand i used a little 1/64" ruller(real thin) to put a mark about .020" above ports(since gasket was removed), and when all said and done, it was still inside/at the marks))

(also thanks for explaining the "squish" very clearly)

ill measure the squish, but it may be friday afternoon before i get to it....


NPKenny:

I am a junior in the Mechanical Engineering department. weekedays are decent, cept for thursdays, class from 8am to 7 pm with a 2 and half hour break....sheesh...

you say you're working with faculty members, what do you do?or can you not disclose that information....?
 
Brownpot Deaton said:
NPKenny:

I am a junior in the Mechanical Engineering department. weekedays are decent, cept for thursdays, class from 8am to 7 pm with a 2 and half hour break....sheesh...

you say you're working with faculty members, what do you do?or can you not disclose that information....?
Click to expand...

We are working on an alternative energy / biofuels project. I am an Ag. & Biosystems Engineer, so this falls right into my background. I will likely be back in College Station in the upcoming months. I'll look you up to run your saws :clap:. Anyways, that's my connection to A&M.
 
357 cylinder...

is there any benifet to switching to a 357 cylinder, and what would i do with the auto decomp on it? i know that there's one for sale for $120 recently...but this is still after i find out if mine is still godd....
 
no i wouldn't dare...

i wouldn't dare do buy that if i wasn't certain that mine was trashed, just was searching about it and couldn't find quit want i wanted to know...no rush rat
 
tree monkey said:
i think you pluged the impulse hole with rtv.

later scott
Click to expand...

Ok I am not the best Mechanic on Huskies,,, but here is where I am so far,,,, With the Muffler Mod and port work that has been done It definitly needed a major carb adjustment,,,, but could not go rich enough with the limiter caps installed had to remove the carb to get to the limiter caps as the dust cover is molded onto the intake manifold and wouldnt allow for the caps to pass Just not that familiar with the Huskies but I am learning,,,, I did like seeing damping screws on the carb adjustment so no need to re-install limiter caps:clap: :clap: :clap: those things are a PITA to get off,,,

When I reinstalled the carb I noticed the screw on the flywheel side never gets really snug, the other side was fine,,, I suspect the screw hole on the intake manifold boot is stripped looks like it will need a new manifold or does anyone have any ideas,,,,, BP did you notice the aforementioned screw would not tighten,,,,, possible air leak there!!!!:monkey:

just to see if it would run I used long black ty-rap around the cylinder and the back of the airfilter fitting to hold the carb snug,,, the saw has good compression 160 on three pulls and feels stout,,, will check squish tomorrow

Checked the fuel hoses and the needle and seat (inlet valve) from the fuel tank by removing the pick up body & applying pressure 15-17 Lb. ,,, held it fine ,,,the impulse hose fuel hoses are fine no cracks filter flows freely....

Got the saw started after changing the plug it free revs good and has some snap,,, the muffler mods sound good it just flat still wont Idle,,,, did it run good before you started this Mod????? right now its a bottle baby only way I can keep it running below 3K RPM!!! have seen plugged idle circuits act the same way

Did you remove the transfer port covers during the mod????? Inve never seen removable covers on the transfer passages????? I am going to pull the carb again,,, and pull the covers and adustment screws check the idle circuit for free flow and the adjustment circuits sorry no pics maybe tomorrow!!!!
 
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thanks alot!!!!!

Got the saw started after changing the plug it free revs good and has some snap,,, the muffler mods sound good it just flat still wont Idle,,,, did it run good before you started this Mod????? right now its a bottle baby only way I can keep it running below 3K RPM!!! have seen plugged idle circuits act the same way

Did you remove the transfer port covers during the mod????? Inve never seen removable covers on the transfer passages????? I am going to pull the carb again,,, and pull the covers and adustment screws check the idle circuit for free flow and the adjustment circuits sorry no pics maybe tomorrow!!!!


you are heaven sent man...

yes..i took the transfer covers off..the only thing with them is that one of the screws is a little tough going in and out...and the gasket is torn on one cus the second time i tore it down, it stuck to the cover...but this was when i was checking to see why it wouldn't idle....????

It ran good before i started playing with it....as for the carb and gaskets and screws..i'll pay for it obviously since it was going to happen anyways,,just you were the first one to get to those first...

p.s. what's the idle circuit?????
 
Brownpot Deaton said:
Got the saw started after changing the plug it free revs good and has some snap,,, the muffler mods sound good it just flat still wont Idle,,,, did it run good before you started this Mod????? right now its a bottle baby only way I can keep it running below 3K RPM!!! have seen plugged idle circuits act the same way

Did you remove the transfer port covers during the mod????? Inve never seen removable covers on the transfer passages????? I am going to pull the carb again,,, and pull the covers and adustment screws check the idle circuit for free flow and the adjustment circuits sorry no pics maybe tomorrow!!!!


you are heaven sent man...

yes..i took the transfer covers off..the only thing with them is that one of the screws is a little tough going in and out...and the gasket is torn on one cus the second time i tore it down, it stuck to the cover...but this was when i was checking to see why it wouldn't idle....????
It ran good before i started playing with it....as for the carb and gaskets and screws..i'll pay for it obviously since it was going to happen anyways,,just you were the first one to get to those first...

p.s. what's the idle circuit?????
Click to expand...

did you repair/replace the transfer cover gasket????? I did see signs of fuel charge seepage around the one on the flywheel side,,,, if it is leaking you are loosing part of your lower fuel charge which explains why it wont idle,,,, I dont have any stuff to pressure test Huskies I will see if I can cook something up,,,to get it sealed,,,

Im gonna check the squish before I pull it down and we will see if some dirko HT can make a new gasket:clap: :clap: :clap: :cheers:

The idle circuit is the fuel path the mix takes to get to the carb venturi bore and is adjusted by the L screw,,,,

Lesson learned here,,,, is that 359 the same one you had @ the GTG last year????? I would have just modded the muffler and got a beater to do my first woods port mod on,,,,,,

does any body have an IPL for an 04 359 huskie?????
 
did you repair/replace the transfer cover gasket????? I did see signs of fuel charge seepage around the one on the flywheel side,,,, if it is leaking you are loosing part of your lower fuel charge which explains why it wont idle,,,, I dont have any stuff to pressure test Huskies I will see if I can cook something up,,,to get it sealed,,,

Im gonna check the squish before I pull it down and we will see if some dirko HT can make a new gasket

The idle circuit is the fuel path the mix takes to get to the carb venturi bore and is adjusted by the L screw,,,,

Lesson learned here,,,, is that 359 the same one you had @ the GTG last year????? I would have just modded the muffler and got a beater to do my first woods port mod on,,,,,,

does any body have an IPL for an 04 359 huskie?????

actually..no i didn't..and i didn't ever notice the fuel seepage on the flywheel side..i wish i had..i just saw the bunch that gets shot out the decomp button....

yes it's the same saw, but christmas time when the idea popped into mind,, ihad the money and plan that if i screwd up..id sell for parts and buy newer and better saw....plus it was my only working saw....i knew i was taking a big chance..but i wasn't too worried....once its broke..it's broke...
 
Brownpot Deaton said:
actually..no i didn't..and i didn't ever notice the fuel seepage on the flywheel side..i wish i had..i just saw the bunch that gets shot out the decomp button....

yes it's the same saw, but christmas time when the idea popped into mind,, ihad the money and plan that if i screwd up..id sell for parts and buy newer and better saw....plus it was my only working saw....i knew i was taking a big chance..but i wasn't too worried....once its broke..it's broke...
Click to expand...


Not to worry,,,, I think it will be fine,,,, just gonna take a little tweaking!!!!

dont give up \!!!!!! Yet!!!!!! LOL

does any body have an IPL for an 04 359 huskie?????
 
The screws are torx with a bump in the middle????

Who makes a torx with the hole in the end?????

OK Huskie guys who has the part # for the Manifold the carb bolts to?????

Need some help here!!!!!!
 
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