I have a smaller old trailer I use with my little john deere model L , I like to load it up pretty good to make my trip worth while but I have 2 small hills to come down and the trailer pushes me down and it gets a little out of control . Its in the woods so its not a good situation , the other day I could tell I was to heavy so I chained up a log and dragged it along behind me it worked good but I need some ideas to slow this thing down before I run out of logs to drag !!!!! There must be a way to add some kind of mechanical braking to this thing , I have welders and a torch , any ideas?
Wood trailer brakes !!
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Jim Timber
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Surge brakes are pretty readily available and would be a simple retrofit. When the trailer pushes into the tow vehicle, it pumps a master cylinder which applies pressure to the wheel cylinders.
Jim I dont think it would be possible to mount brakes to this old 40's or 50 's car axle , its pretty old the wheels have metal spokes on them . I'm wondering if my only way out is changing over to a utility axle with brakes already on them. Or some farmer engineered idea that would work in a pinch , but I sure don't want to wreak my model L !! It might be worth mounting a different axle . I'll try to get a pic of this rig if I can find one . I forgot about surge brakes seems like a good idea if my axle would work , don't most of those utility axles come with electric brakes .
Jim Timber
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I'm not sure how your trailer is configured, so it's hard to advise on how to proceed.
You could rig up a cable actuated brake which acts against the tires, like those used on wheel chairs. Or you could replace the whole axle with something like the rear axle on a minivan - those typically use a pair of leaf springs with a solid axle, then rig up a surge master cylinder. Finding something at a "you pull it" type bone yard would be reasonably priced and nearly complete.
You're correct, most new trailer axles use electric brakes. You'll need a brake controller in addition to the new axle and brake hardware.
You could rig up a cable actuated brake which acts against the tires, like those used on wheel chairs. Or you could replace the whole axle with something like the rear axle on a minivan - those typically use a pair of leaf springs with a solid axle, then rig up a surge master cylinder. Finding something at a "you pull it" type bone yard would be reasonably priced and nearly complete.
You're correct, most new trailer axles use electric brakes. You'll need a brake controller in addition to the new axle and brake hardware.
How about a truck rear axle? It'll have the brake hardware already on there.
The old car axle that you're using probably had drum brakes at one time. You should be able to reconnect at least the mechanical portion of them to create some drag. The surge brake would be easier, I would think.
The old car axle that you're using probably had drum brakes at one time. You should be able to reconnect at least the mechanical portion of them to create some drag. The surge brake would be easier, I would think.
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Do you need actual automatic brakes? are you the only one who would be pulling it? Is it only on those two hills you use them?
You could change to an axle with electric brakes, or a car axle with hydraulic shoes or cable parking brake, then have a manually operated Johnson Bar type of lever on the tractor to manually operate the electrical brakes, or pull a chain to a hydraulic master cylinder on the trailer tongue, or pull a chain to a lever on the trailer that pulls on the cable operated parking brakes. The basic point is to have operater controlled manual brakes, not rely on surge brake controller (you also need to manually defeat the surge brakes to back up).
The really old stuff for heavy loads had mechanical shoes or hooks that dug into the ground. Better than skidding a tire, but I would NOT want to be going down a steep hill with that sort of system.
Brakes are good, safety is good, a new axle cost suddenly gets cheap at some moment in time when it is too late.
Spoke wheels (wire wheels) disappeared mostly by the mid 30's on most cars. Spoked stamped wheels could be any year including present. But it they are wire wheels, there probably aren't any junkyard brake parts to add.
You could change to an axle with electric brakes, or a car axle with hydraulic shoes or cable parking brake, then have a manually operated Johnson Bar type of lever on the tractor to manually operate the electrical brakes, or pull a chain to a hydraulic master cylinder on the trailer tongue, or pull a chain to a lever on the trailer that pulls on the cable operated parking brakes. The basic point is to have operater controlled manual brakes, not rely on surge brake controller (you also need to manually defeat the surge brakes to back up).
The really old stuff for heavy loads had mechanical shoes or hooks that dug into the ground. Better than skidding a tire, but I would NOT want to be going down a steep hill with that sort of system.
Brakes are good, safety is good, a new axle cost suddenly gets cheap at some moment in time when it is too late.
Spoke wheels (wire wheels) disappeared mostly by the mid 30's on most cars. Spoked stamped wheels could be any year including present. But it they are wire wheels, there probably aren't any junkyard brake parts to add.
Jim I was calling them utility axles but maybe there more known as house trailer axles , do they have the same electric brake setup as a boat trailer or are they a more simple magnetic brake of some kind.
Don't need anything fancy only have a couple small hills to get down over when I'm to heavy or the ground is damp , I just need a little drag to help slow me down it wouldn't take much . I like the idea of a emergency brake setup but the cables might be a pain .The hub cap is chrome and has V8 stamped in it , they are real round metal spokes with drum brakes.
Don't need anything fancy only have a couple small hills to get down over when I'm to heavy or the ground is damp , I just need a little drag to help slow me down it wouldn't take much . I like the idea of a emergency brake setup but the cables might be a pain .The hub cap is chrome and has V8 stamped in it , they are real round metal spokes with drum brakes.
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BrokenToys
ArboristSite Operative
Prob would do very well with an old mobile home axle and hub with brakes; throw in the surge, and you're golden.
Don't know if you have any mobile home parks around; or even on your local craigslist you may be able to pick one up for the cheap.
Don't know if you have any mobile home parks around; or even on your local craigslist you may be able to pick one up for the cheap.
importjunk
ArboristSite Member
Surge brakes are a pain. You must dismount and turn the brakes off to back-up. Back uphill or add a load and they will scoot the tires everytime. Electric brakes are less expensive and easier to maintain.
Greywynd
ArboristSite Lurker
You could mount an axle from a mini-van or pickup in it, then hook the wheel cylinders up to the surge actuator.
Another option would be a trailer axle with electric brakes, run a wire to your JD, and mount a brake actuator on it. You won't have automatic braking, but can use the manual over-ride on the controller to activate the brakes when needed.
Guess it all depends on what you have around to scrounge, versus what you need to buy etc and how cheap you want to keep it, versus how effective/simple you want to keep it.
If you found dragging a log behind effective, what about adding a log arch behind the trailer, and have a winch or something that you can work from the seat?
Another option would be a trailer axle with electric brakes, run a wire to your JD, and mount a brake actuator on it. You won't have automatic braking, but can use the manual over-ride on the controller to activate the brakes when needed.
Guess it all depends on what you have around to scrounge, versus what you need to buy etc and how cheap you want to keep it, versus how effective/simple you want to keep it.
If you found dragging a log behind effective, what about adding a log arch behind the trailer, and have a winch or something that you can work from the seat?
Electric brake controllers only work on drum brakes (electric selenoids). I agree with the surge brakes being a PITA, they work with hydraulic fluid. I'd look for an electric brake axle and put a controller on the tractor.
I really, really wish that I could find a set of disc brakes that are for trailer use that work with an electric controller. My electric drum brakes on the trailer are now requiring work on a frequent basis.
I really, really wish that I could find a set of disc brakes that are for trailer use that work with an electric controller. My electric drum brakes on the trailer are now requiring work on a frequent basis.
Putting another axle under this trailer is more than I want to spend or do right now . Has anyone seen a mechanical brake where there are pads riding against the tire , I know its a redneck rigging but very cheap and I think pretty easy to do . Run a tube under the trailer that comes out in front of the wheels , weld it solid , then run another pipe inside it that goes past the other tube and weld steel pads on it , put a lever underneath in the middle on the pipe that moves and run a cable out to the tongue , maybe put a boat winch on the under side with handle on top and give it a crank to tighten it up and spring to pull off.
You can buy the plate to weld onto the axle that mounts the backing plate for brakes or fab a pair up, if your spindle will work with the brake drums. Electric is the easiest option surge brakes suck! Flintstone brakes are crude but likely the cheapest option.
Can't add to any of the stuggestions but..
Picture PLEASE of that Model L and age. I had the hots for one I found back in the 80s but didn't buy. I think they are the best looking of the 'garden tractors' ever...at least they are unique in style.
Harry K
Picture PLEASE of that Model L and age. I had the hots for one I found back in the 80s but didn't buy. I think they are the best looking of the 'garden tractors' ever...at least they are unique in style.
Harry K
mitch95100
Saw Nut
a big rock and a short rope:msp_biggrin:
user 64030
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That should work. Look up images of horse drawn wagons, that is the type of brake system they used. Newer wagons still use the technology, and use standard car tires now so there may be a supply store for what you need.
If not once you weld up the "backing plate" where your pad would be, cruise your local interstate, and find a tossed retread from a semi. I have one I plan to use for tread sections on my ramps to load my mower, atv, ???
Anyway once you have the tire tread, cut it to fit the backing plaate, then get you some counter-sunk bolts, run though the tread into the the backing plate. No more use than it will see (only 2 hills per trip), it should last a while, and the rubber to rubber contact should provide good friction w/out a lot of force, as this will be manually activated.
You will probably need to bevel the leading edge so the tire cannot get good purchase on the edge and pull the shoe off the backing plate.
Once you have all this done, add a way to lock it in place, and you know have a parking brake as well.
dw
The V8 on the hubcap and spoke wheel says it is off of a Ford car in the early years of V8 production. If the axle still has the drums you may have the internal brake parts, they were mechanical, and can rig a pull rope to activate.
Harry K
Harry K
importjunk
ArboristSite Member
BINGO! I love it when someone demonstrates clear thinking. The origional brakes would have been operated by a system of leavers and rods. If the origional hardware is still in the drums, your brake problem is mostly solved really cheaply.
user 64030
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With a little modification, the tongue can be modified to work as a manual surge system. If the tongue were to slip inside itself, and a set of cables, pulleys and anchor points added the sliding action form the trailer pushing forward as the tractor slowed could pull a cable and work the brakes. I have it thought out in my head, not on paper, and not sure the system can be made to exert the needed leverage.... that would take math, and me and math don't get along so nicely :msp_sneaky:
This could work with the factory brake parts if on the axle (though I think you said they weren't), or the wagon brake system you mentioned in a follow up post.
dw
This could work with the factory brake parts if on the axle (though I think you said they weren't), or the wagon brake system you mentioned in a follow up post.
dw
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The drums are intact but I thought it had a hydraulic wheel cylinders , I'll go get a better look . I'll try to get some other pics up , but here is one I had on this site before. http://www.arboristsite.com/attachments/chainsaw/84769d1230146089-img_0852-jpg
1944 model L my grandfather bought it new for $660.71 with garden plow . 13,365 made, 9.1 hp at drawbar , 1550 RPM, made from 1937-1946 , I did a total restore from the frame up , new pistons and rings bored .020 over , had to send the main bearings to a guy out west to re-coat them as they weren't available , the crank was still within specs after 50 years of use . Was able to remove a few shims on the rods that brought them back into specs.I can't believe its now 68 years old and running as good as the day it was new , thats when they made equipment !!!!!!!!!!
1944 model L my grandfather bought it new for $660.71 with garden plow . 13,365 made, 9.1 hp at drawbar , 1550 RPM, made from 1937-1946 , I did a total restore from the frame up , new pistons and rings bored .020 over , had to send the main bearings to a guy out west to re-coat them as they weren't available , the crank was still within specs after 50 years of use . Was able to remove a few shims on the rods that brought them back into specs.I can't believe its now 68 years old and running as good as the day it was new , thats when they made equipment !!!!!!!!!!
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