woodmaster problem

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mmchris

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Hi, I have a woodmaster 5500 and I having a hard time keeping it 170 degrees, I use hard maple for firewood and heating two buildings with it, anybody know of any problems i could be having, thanks
 
Not trying to be the master of the obvious here but one of two things, your either not producing BTUs or are using a bunch of them and no way for anyone to tell by your brief discription. The fan draft boilers I have been around including my Woodmaster 4400 will come up to high limit from low limit very, say 160 to 170, very quickly, I have never timed it but maybe 10 minutes even if both of by heat exchangers are calling for heat while it is firing, I am heating two buildings also. If mine had the draft running continuously as yours must be it would be burning an astronomical amount of wood, are you burning a lot of wood? Pull the cover off of the draft assembly on the door and see if the flapper is opening when the fan comes on, I'll bet it isnt opening for some reason.
 
Butch...Yes I'm burning alot of wood...I say cord to cord and half a week, thanks for the suggestion, I check that out in the morning, Thanks MaRK
 
What type of ground piping did you use and how was it installed. I have heard of horror stories of the ground pipe becoming surrounded by ground water and you would now be trying to heat the earth. What is the size and type of buildings you are heating? Having a draft that stayed open would make your system boil over. It sounds like you are losing heat somewhere. What is you shut off point set at?


puck
 
Is this a new system?

if it is not new, Has it ever performed well?
There is no doubt you are getting enough air, considering the forest you have burned in it over the past week.LOL
, I am agreeing with others. you are dumping heat somewhere., Were the lines insulated and placed in a plastic corrugated tile? or Please do not say just buried in sand.. Something does not jive up,. That amount of wood produced a serious amount of BTUs. But where did they go?
 
sounds like it's your under ground pipe or your water to air coil in your furnace is under sized....if it doesn't make the btu's to heat your home your furnace will run all the time and suck the life out of your boiler...was the coil the same btu's or larger as your furnace in your home?
 
If he would get back with us we could tell him what it is.....
 
Hi...this is what I did, I put a inline temp guage in, My return water is 12 degrees cooler, I can put wood in the boiler and It will not build up to temp, I can leave the door open on the stove and It will build 30 degrees in a half hour, I check the flap on the draft and its opening and closing, like it should, and I insulated my pipes and put them in a 4 inch pcv pipe.
 
Hi...this is what I did, I put a inline temp guage in, My return water is 12 degrees cooler, I can put wood in the boiler and It will not build up to temp, I can leave the door open on the stove and It will build 30 degrees in a half hour, I check the flap on the draft and its opening and closing, like it should, and I insulated my pipes and put them in a 4 inch pcv pipe.

Just as long as your PVC pipe is not full of water, you should be fine. 12 degree difference is not bad, as long as your heat is calling in side your house. If all you are doing is circulating the water through the loop and you are loosing 12 degrees, then we may have a problem with you underground pipes. What were the soil conditions that they were buried in? Most manufactures want them with in 18 " of the surface for ground water problems. Try leaving your bypass open and see if you get an tempeature build up. You may have a problem with creasote in the secondary burn area. When my unit turns on at 168 degrees and shuts off at 178 it only stays on for 10 to 20 minutes tops, even during a cold day. If the heat is not calling it will only stay on for 10 minutes or less.
 
Hi...I have a draft problem, when I fill the furnace in the morning, it will not build up heat with the door closed and the fan running, but if I leave the door open it will build just fine with a natural draft....like it should...
 
Wow, a forced draft furnace having a draft problem:confused:

I guess there is a first for everything. I hope you figure it out. I would check the stack and make sure it is not plugged with soot.
 
I am not familiar with the Woodmaster except reading about them on the net. It looks like the blower is in the door? Can you run it with the door open? If so is it actually blowing air?
If the fan is working the flue has to be stopped up. Just like a car with a bad converter. Air maybe trying to get in but it has no way to get out.
 
Take the sunday paper to it

Or atleast several days worth of newspaper. wad it up and stuff it into a couple of paper grocery sacks.. Not folded. I am talking xmas paper wadded. and throw both bags in.. That will clean out the exhaust stack.Nothing better than a controlled chimney fire. Then the creosote if any will fall back into the stove.
Mine vents out the back. I had to put a clean out tee in it as it would plug up a 90 elbow. and I would have to disasemble to glean out the crusties.
The 12 dgree delta tee is excellent. If in fact that is while your blower in the house is running. if it is just while circulating.. something is amiss.
 
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i have a clayton 1600 furnace..it has 2 draft openings..1 in the main fire box..the other down where the ash pan is...if i have ash build up it will not burn effiecent..shaker grates are awsome...
 
Hi..took the door all aprart and cleaned the the door, the fan motor, talk to woodmaster and they agree its a draft problem, ck the chimmey and thats looks good, just don't know...lol
 
Are you burning green wood? If so that could be a big problem. I know OWB'S can burn green wood. If its calling for alot of heat to heat things, it takes out some serious btus to drive off the moisture of the wood. If you have any seasoned wood, load it up with that and see what happens. The difference between seasoned wood and green wood will be night and day. You should have faster heat recovery with seasoned wood.
 
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