Woods Porting (UK)

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Geal

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i have read tons and tons of threads on woods porting and they seem to be done on america's side and yet to find some one in the uk that does this type of work on saws in the uk...... any got more infomation for a UK tuner.

As i would like to get my saw done for logging wouldnt mind a little more power from my saw.
 
not much of a tuning/porting culture here in the uk... not for vehicles... and certainly not for saws.


there are plenty of kind folk here on arboristsite who could help you through a d.i.y job... and im sure some that would port a p+c and mod a muffler for you through the medium of international postage:)

tommy (scotclayshooter) is a good bloke, and has done a couple of his saws with pleasing results, i'm sure he'd help you on your way...


you could also call dougie bennett at tavistock chainsaws (google em)... i'm pretty sure they have built race saws in the past, and theyre a good bunch

god luck mate:cheers:
 
I did my 262XP myself with help from the guys here and another forum.
Apart from myself and Dibbs in Northern Ireland I have never heard of anyone else with a ported saw.

It aint rocket science to do a basic port job Just ask Brad and Rick here:greenchainsaw: If they and me can manage it cant be that hard:)
 
no mods to the saws yet but will do, ill see what i can find on the net.
 
Widen the transfers and the intake and remove the base gasket?

I dropped the jug .5mm so i raised the exhaust the .5mm + another .5mm so 1mm total. widend and squared the exhaust and inlet a fair bit but left a 1.5mm seal on either side of the piston on the exhaust side.
I blended the bottom of the transfers to smooth the flow but not too much as to increase the crankcase volume.
And widened the transfers 2mm towards the intake.
I tried to raise them back up .5mm but that was not really possible with my tool.

I opened the windows in the piston and smoothed them out.

New ring fitted

Squish is mostly 0.020" but theres a tiny minute miniscule bit of solder that measures 0.011"!!!!!

TW guided me through it.

It cuts well with a 8 pin and a 15" bar but im going to try the 7 pin and my new 16" bar soon maybe with square chain:)
 
I recommend not raising the exhaust at all for a work saw. You need the torque that compression helps create. I typically see an RPM increase of about 1500 RPMs without raising the exhaust.

I gather TimberWolf has had a lot of experience with the 262XP and i did what i was told, And it sure aint short of compression!

DSC00306.jpg


DSC00309.jpg


I thought the rpms were a bit low but it seems TW sent a 262XP to some one who emailed me and told me his was set the same as mine.

WOT free revving dont mean bugger all its the rpms in the cut that matter anyway.
 
I gather TimberWolf has had a lot of experience with the 262XP and i did what i was told, And it sure aint short of compression!

I certainly won't argue with Brian! He knows his stuff for sure. I assume you have a popup or bored the combustion chamber to get that much compression? I don't see where you mentioned any work like that, but I've also never heard of compression like that on these saws. I've never worked on that model though.
 
Well the tester might be out a little but it takes a fair old committed pull to get it going. Starts easy though.

No machining done (yet) It was suggested that the aquish was too tight but it seems to be OK and theres no pitting on the piston so far.

It was 130psi on that same tester when i got the saw but the ring gap was way open and the squish 0.043"
 
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