You just got to love the MS361

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Are you denying the fact that tress in the northern US have a much shorter growing season, and the resulting tighter annual growth rings which makes the trees more dense?

Rainfall and soil are pretty important also.:dizzy:

Fred
 
Your newbie stupidity don't even deserve a answer young man. :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:


Gary, mine had 5 holes in the front with the 2 EPA caps pulled ;) , boy she was sure free flowing.
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Pulling the EPA cap's is good for 100% better access to the exhaust flow screws for better exhaust flow adjustment...:cheers: :cheers: Also stops suck back...:) :)


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What size birch?


Mostly slow grown (dense) ones, 12-20 inchs.

.......but I had saved a 28 x 24 one for my 372, just for fun - mostly bought that one for ripping twited evils, that is impossible to split with an axe-----
 
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Pulling the EPA cap's is good for 100% better access to the exhaust flow screws for better exhaust flow adjustment...:cheers: :cheers:


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Yeah man :newbie:, the more I turned left with those 2 adjustment screws the louder and faster she got. :clap:
 
Tom, I am in agreement with what your saying. The problem as I see it with 60cc saws is that while they can do it all, they dont really excell at much. For cutting softwood trees up to 20" a 50cc saw will get it done with ease. Ditto with hard woods 16" or so. Maybe even bigger for southern hardwoods as they are softer. Bigger than that and the 70cc saw comes out. A 70cc saw will soundly trounce a 60cc saw in anything 20" and above.
Of course maybe my oppinion only applies to local conditions of the area I live in. I honestly dont know. I do know after owning several that I will not be playing with a 60cc again.

I agree wholeheartedly. The 361 is just not what I want. It's too close in money to the really good 70cc saws that will just kill it. Especially in tough wood like hickory, oak and osage orange. Every time I use a good friend of mine's 361 I love my 441 even more. It just rips through the toughest wood grain while the 361 struggles to stay in it's powerband.
 
[QUOTERainfall and soil are pretty important also.][/QUOTE]
Yep, and much of the upper midwest have glaciated soils which are less fertile and hold less moisture resulting in slower growth rates.
 
Mostly slow grown (dense) ones, 12-20 inchs.

.......but I had saved a 28 x 24 one for my 372, just for fun - mostly bought that one for ripping twited evils, that is impossible to split with an axe-----
I have cut Birch in northern Canada and a 346 destroys them. Given your a bit farther north.
If birch is the nastiest stuff you got then maybe a 361 for a big saw is a fine choice. If your running into Maple, Oak and the like I think a 70cc saw is much better for stuff around 20".
 
Tom, I am in agreement with what your saying. The problem as I see it with 60cc saws is that while they can do it all, they dont really excell at much. For cutting softwood trees up to 20" a 50cc saw will get it done with ease. Ditto with hard woods 16" or so. Maybe even bigger for southern hardwoods as they are softer. Bigger than that and the 70cc saw comes out. A 70cc saw will soundly trounce a 60cc saw in anything 20" and above.
Of course maybe my oppinion only applies to local conditions of the area I live in. I honestly dont know. I do know after owning several that I will not be playing with a 60cc again.

Good post Ben and its correct. My point was simply being many folks don't want anymore than one saw and the 60cc fills that requirement quite well.
I wish everyone would want a 3 saw set up like I perfer, a 50cc or smaller just for trimming, a 70cc for felling and blocking most any tree and a 90cc for the once in while big tree. Unfortantly most take the middle road and grab the 60 cc for the all in one saw. Such buyers don't tackle real big trees for the most part so to them a big 90cc saw is out of the question. So I'm with ya on the 60cc doesn't excell at any one job but it fills in nice for those that want just one saw. The 60cc saws are big sellers so there is a market outthere for them.
 
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I have cut Birch in northern Canada and a 346 destroys them. Given your a bit farther north.
If birch is the nastiest stuff you got then maybe a 361 for a big saw is a fine choice. If your running into Maple, Oak and the like I think a 70cc saw is much better for stuff around 20".


....all what you said, but no oak here, but a few really hefty mountain ash here and there - they have a really hard "shell" and a really soft core.
 
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The way I see it...........50cc............60cc............70cc............buy what makes your pekker hard!!!


Or have all 3..............:buttkick: :jawdrop:


LOLOLOLOLOLOL, ya dayummmmmmmmmmmm right. No wait a minute, you just aint right,LOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL
 
Yep Correct on all counts!!!!!

I see you're from Texas, so I will guess you're drinking Shiner HefeWeizen.:love1:

Yup running the ports out the front is not the optimal setup, however running big dogs and synthetic oil helps quite a bit.

The Shiner Hefe is good but my favorite is Franzikaner Hefe-Weisse MMMM,,, Good stuff!!!! after a hot day sawing in the summertime,,, they will knock the bark loose before you take your shower,,,,, LOL
:laugh: :laugh:
 
Ha ha ha ha ha!!!!!

I've learned even cold hard facts cannot rival opinion in your mind, so I won't even point out that the statment was the 8th most ignorant thing I have heard you say.

Fred

That's Funny right there Fred... I was wondering myself where those soft southern Oaks that ole bens been cutting up in Michigan
were located,,,, :deadhorse: :notrolls2: :hmm3grin2orange: And I dont want to see you guys throwin rocks @ each other but you take a downed Oak especially one of those Live oaks or Heritage oaks that stay green year round thats been knocked down for a while,,,, Ill show ya hard,,,, your chain better be sharp,,,,and the oiler turned all the way up even moreso if ya get up about the lakes area wher the soil is red clay and lime stone or out west with the scrub or Black Jack oaks and Mesquite and heavy lime stone soils,,, The sparks will be flying
 
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Are you denying the fact that tress in the northern US have a much shorter growing season, and the resulting tighter annual growth rings which makes the trees more dense?


I believe you, that is the case here too - a 20" birch will normally be well over 100 years old........;)
 
but you take a downed Oak especially one of those Live oaks or Heritage oaks that stay green year round thats been knocked down for a while,,,, Ill show ya hard,,,, your chain better be sharp,,,,and the oiler turned all the way up even moreso if ya get up about the lakes area wher the soil is red clay and lime stone or out west with the scrub or Black Jack oaks and Mesquite and heavy lime stone soils,,, The sparks will be flying
Michigan is full of Red and White Oaks that where called by the Gypsy moth in the early ninties so I might know a thing or two about cutting dead oaks...:rolleyes:
 
I bet all the PNW guys are getting a kick out of this thread. Since we don't have the big trees like you guys do we (midwesterners and southerners) argue about which one of our pecker poles are harder.
 
There's some wisdom.

I wish everyone would want a 3 saw set up like I perfer, a 50cc or smaller just for trimming, a 70cc for felling and blocking most any tree and a 90cc for the once in while big tree.

*Now you're talking, Tom. That's some good advice. I'm thinking a 35cc top handle, climbing saw these days.
I've been eyeballing a 60cc saw for the heck of it. but I can't bring myself (just yet) to get one. I can't think of a real practical reason.


a big 90cc saw is out of the question.

*Never....say it isn't so. :chainsawguy: :biggrinbounce2:
 

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