Muriatic acid treatment on cyl video

OK,i dont need a critique on the quality of the video,i know it sucks but it may help those that are thinking about doing this to clean up a cylinder..
i did the best i could
i guess personal protection and ventelation and NOT breathing the fumes are the most important things i could add..
any suggestions,facts to add,tricks,or anything else to help out somebody that wants to do this and has not tried yet are more than welcome of course....
BTW.. the cyl was not saveable,had burned through the plating above and below the exhaust port..

I'm curious why you heat it first...

Rftreeman said:

I'm curious why you heat it first...

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The heat maybe softens the alumnium a bit and REALLY makes the acid do it's thing QUICK !! instantaniouse reaction when you put the acid on..see the smoke ?? have done it cool and heated ,,and heated works a lot better and quicker,can wash it quickly also to stop acid reaction..
next time you do one heat it up first and see what i meen.. you will like it..

Nice post.
Thanks for sharing.


Lee

Good worthwhile post. Thanks :rockn:

leeha said:

Nice post.
Thanks for sharing.


Lee

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Why thank you Lee..
worth a 116 ??
i can even pick it up ??

be there in two hrs ??

roncoinc said:

The heat maybe softens the alumnium a bit and REALLY makes the acid do it's thing QUICK !! instantaniouse reaction when you put the acid on..see the smoke ?? have done it cool and heated ,,and heated works a lot better and quicker,can wash it quickly also to stop acid reaction..
next time you do one heat it up first and see what i meen.. you will like it..

Click to expand...

I'll try that on that 281xp I have waiting for a new set..

Squish and muriatic lesson all in one! Thanx.

Nice post

Very informative and easy to understand post...Thanks!

Thanks, this is a really good post and videos are incredible helpful in ways that text is just NOT. I'm unsure about the heating. It may very well be that heating evaporates the acid so quickly it doesn't have as much time to work on the aluminum. I don't know, mind you, I'm just speculating.

roncoinc said:

OK,i dont need a critique on the quality of the video,i know it sucks but it may help those that are thinking about doing this to clean up a cylinder..
i did the best i could
i guess personal protection and ventelation and NOT breathing the fumes are the most important things i could add..
any suggestions,facts to add,tricks,or anything else to help out somebody that wants to do this and has not tried yet are more than welcome of course....
BTW.. the cyl was not saveable,had burned through the plating above and below the exhaust port..

Click to expand...

You mentioned the cylinder was burned through the plating above and below the exhaust port. Is that damage due to muriatic acid or other? Good information,video and effort on your part. Thank you from me:chainsawguy:

Rftreeman said:

I'm curious why you heat it first...

Click to expand...

I've tried it both ways, it works a lot faster when heated. I ain't too smart so I can't say why it works better, I wonder if the heat causes the water in the acid to evaporate leaving behind a higher percentage of hydrochloric acid, muratic acid is a pretty low percentage mix...

Good post. I tried to rep ya but I have to spread it around first.



Mr. HE

Good post. I have never tried that stuff,but maybe I will if it is available here.

Geoff.

almondgt said:

You mentioned the cylinder was burned through the plating above and below the exhaust port. Is that damage due to muriatic acid or other? Good information,video and effort on your part. Thank you from me:chainsawguy:

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The saw was probly straight gassed and thats what melted the piston but it scored through the plating also above and below the exhaust port..

Almost all, but not quite all, chemical reactions go quicker the warmer they get, I won't go into detail unless anyone asks why.

Personally I have used HCL to clean up saw and snogo jugs, and it works perfectly well. But I would be cautious when using this treatment (heating), as it could get out of hand and a tiny pin-hole could turn into a big hole. The difference between a jug that could be saved and one that has to be tossed. And yes, it goes without saying do not breath the fumes nor allow any eye contact. That would hurt...a very great deal. Chemical burns on the hands and such, heal, but are more painful that burns due to fire. I base this on experience.

Nitroman said:

Almost all, but not quite all, chemical reactions go quicker the warmer they get, I won't go into detail unless anyone asks why.

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:agree2: Beat me to it.

I've found that slower reactions (not warming it up) plus a little agitation (think plastic bristled brush) works well for stuff like this without turning the pinholes or tiny scratches in plating into craters and gulleys.

Speaking of pinholes, I had one that was not visible, until the acid hit it, I rinsed it off and could only find it again with a magnifying glass. Is this jug still usable? I was scared of it and sit it on the shelf...thought I may practice upper transfer porting on it. I would like to use it on a 028 super I've got that is jugless at the moment...what do you guys think? This saw is one I will keep for myself so I tend to let more go on my own saws...

mastermind7864 said:

Speaking of pinholes, I had one that was not visible, until the acid hit it, I rinsed it off and could only find it again with a magnifying glass. Is this jug still usable? I was scared of it and sit it on the shelf...thought I may practice upper transfer porting on it. I would like to use it on a 028 super I've got that is jugless at the moment...what do you guys think? This saw is one I will keep for myself so I tend to let more go on my own saws...

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A pinhole that small won't hurt a thing. You'll find pinholes bigger than that in some new cylinders.