Yep great day got nearly the entire pile finished off today, very happy with the progress.Perfect temps for splittin Sean. The wind sucks though today.That's a beast of a splitter.
Just a thought for you fellas discussing the bandmills. The hourly rate depends on what kind and type of mill the sawyer has. A hydraulic mill at 100 per hour is far cheaper than a manual mill at 60 per hour. I would suggest that you go to his place and watch him mill for a couple of hours before you decide on paying money or trading wood. A hydraulic mill with a seasoned sawyer is like hauling logs with a log truck and a newbie sawyer on a manual mill is like using Duncan's van for hauling those same logs. I have a manual mill and very little experience I would never saw by the hour as it's not fair to either of us. Most guys charge by the board foot and that rate depends on the quality of your logs. If you want 1" boards sawn and show up with fence post sized logs the board foot rate is going to be higher. Wouldn't hurt to spend a little time in the Milling Forum to help you decide either. FYI, in my opinion manual mills are reasonably cheap if you have access to logs, have some spare time and want some lumber I would just buy a cheap manual and do it when you want and sell it when you are done with it.
"..... I might have one made 1”, and the other log made 2”. ......"
Might not be a good idea. First, how much WIDE 8/4 Oak do you really need? If you making benches or something like that, then maybe. But usually, in my experience, you'll want more 4/4 boards than 8/4. And usually the better 4/4 boards come off the outside of the log where you want wide boards. Once closer to the pith, the 8/4 boards are sawn from around any cracking.
The point I'm trying to make is I'd hate to see higher quality 4/4 lumber to be sacrificed just so a whole log can be sawn into 8/4 to speed things up. Each log needs to be read and not seeing yours, I don't know. Please any sawyers out there feel free to correct me.
I didn't think you'd want a whole log of 2" thick (8/4) lumber unless you specifically had a use for it. Would be good for the tops of woodworking benches, though. I assumed these were clear furniture grade logs and that more of it should go into 1" thick (4/4) boards than thicker ones. If you have a use for 4" x 4", then of course, go for it.I don’t understand your use of 8/4, do you mean 8” X 4”? If so, what does that have to do with my saying 1” or 2”. But now that I’m thinking along these lines, I will want some 4” X 4”.
I didn't think you'd want a whole log of 2" thick (8/4) lumber unless you specifically had a use for it. Would be good for the tops of woodworking benches, though. I assumed these were clear furniture grade logs and that more of it should go into 1" thick (4/4) boards than thicker ones. If you have a use for 4" x 4", then of course, go for it.
Nice, my break barrel is a 223 too lol.My varmint gun is a .177 breakbarrel Ruger. Ammo is cheap and its lethal on small game. View attachment 884393
It means eight 1/4". Typical board you would use on a deck attached to your house are called 5/4 or 1.25" thick.What is 8/4 lumber?
I think it is too thick and too heavy to use as flooring unless it is softwood.
I think a 2" X 30" X 12' Oak would weigh a lot more than that! 2" X 22" x 7.5' gets pretty darn heavy!
Sorry I didn't answer your question ( I went to bed, lol) but others chimed in.We want to use 2” thick for the loft floor in our cabin.
Wind chill was 18* yesterday. I actually put a pair of sweets over my shorts. Little colder today, guess I’ll put the sweets on before I start.Perfect temps for splittin Sean. The wind sucks though today.That's a beast of a splitter.
Enter your email address to join: