Need help on an old 066 with a two slot aluminum flywheel.

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Would the saw run if it was on the wrong key? Doubt it is it possible? I got one spade connector on the coil and I'm pretty sure it was keyed in the p slot
 
I've been in the same position as you with the same saw.

It WILL NOT run at all on the wrong slot.

Listen to MM and confirm it for yourself when it runs. I picked the wrong slot first.
 
Got a little more info on these confusing old 066's. This is how I took it. 1991 and 92 066 saws had limited coils with the red led light "called red eye or red light" then in 93 the US and Canada models got a new unlimited coil part # 0000 400 1300 but it wasn't till 94 that the 066 worldwide saws with aluminum flywheels got an unlimited coil part # 1122 400 1311. Then in 96 the crank was changed along with a poly flywheel and another new coil part# 0000 400 1303 then a 0000 400 1305 around 97 then the 1122 400 1314 in 98 up to the current MS660.
So I have an unlimited coil but I don't know if it has the timing advance feature like the 1122 400 1311 that was introduced in 94.
 
Look forward to seeing the difference in coils on the dyno. And just in case the x slot happens to be wrong...Ben gay should help the shoulder pain:surprised3:
 
I've have had them running with the wrong combo.......but you could tell the timing was way off.

You'll know if it's correct.
 
Gentlemen, this is my second post here as I just found this site. I posted my results on a similar thread already, but decided to share here as well, just in case anyone else here is still looking for a combination that works well.

I have a older STIHL 066 with the dual key 'X' or 'P' flywheel. I bought it off ebay not running and discovered it needed a top end.
I noticed that on reassembly of my 066 with the X and P slot options that I had not made a note of the flywheels position after removing for a thorough cleaning.
I went with the X slot after doing a top end rebuild with new cylinder and piston.
I also went ahead and upgraded my coil to the newer style STIHL 1122 400 1314 and made sure to use the Stihl gap tool on the coil and magnet before tightening.
She runs like a real champ and not a miss at all with timing. Very powerful and throttles up quickly.
My non-poly flywheel part # 1122 400 1216 from the 066 matched this newer coil part # 1122 400 1314
Try this combo and let me know if it works out for you as well! Best of luck
 
Check it with the timing of the piston which ever slot has the magnet on the flywheel pass the coil just before TDC
 
I couldnt see the picture of the slots but the magnet should start to pass the coil just before TDC but I could be wrong
 
1314 works fine with that aluminum flywheel.......but the 1300 coil will too. Not sure which is "better".
Total spark advance on the 2 were the same from what I remember, but the 1314 coil had about 10° less advance at idle than the 1300.
 
I plan on doing a rebuild of an old 036 soon. I plan on converting her to a pro unit with decompression valve.
Any recommendations on a good aftermarket top end kit? I don't have an OEM parts budget for this old saw and it will not be used daily, just for occasional farm work.

Thanks
 
Total spark advance on the 2 were the same from what I remember, but the 1314 coil had about 10° less advance at idle than the 1300.

That's what I figured Durand.

So the 1314 coil is less likely to hurt a guy when starting.....but run the same at WFO.
 
I plan on doing a rebuild of an old 036 soon. I plan on converting her to a pro unit with decompression valve.
Any recommendations on a good aftermarket top end kit? I don't have an OEM parts budget for this old saw and it will not be used daily, just for occasional farm work.

Thanks

You wanna get an aftermarket top end just to gain a decomp?
 
Back
Top