galde
Addicted to ArboristSite
Right. The top plate rakes the kerf, and the drive link notch rakes the bar groove.
Ms 261 bar plugs up with debris
- Thread starter CM BEHOUNEK
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Did you tell us what kind of wood you are cutting? Green or dried, etc.? Does it do this will all wood or just certain types?
Have you tried increasing the oiler output (check your owner's manual).
Philbert
Did you tell us what kind of wood you are cutting? Green or dried, etc.? Does it do this will all wood or just certain types?
Have you tried increasing the oiler output (check your owner's manual).
Philbert
This is just a thought. The 261 pulls pretty hard for a 50cc saw, maybe .325 in soft wood isn't the best setup. .325 has more teeth, less tooth height and less space between each tooth, which isn't great when you're pulling big long chips in soft wood. On top of that the oiler likely isn't maxed out. Crank the oiler up and see how things go. If you still have issues you may want to give 3/8 chain a try, if you're going to be cutting the same type of wood.
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That's what I did here in the PNW and haven't a problem with 3/8's
RiverRocket
ArboristSite Guru
Is the chain matched to the bar? for instance: 50/gauge chain on a 63/gauge bar?
71cowboys
ArboristSite Lurker
I noticed the same condition cutting some cedar this afternoon, chips are not being cleared from the chain sprocket. The ridge you mentioned seems to be keeping the chips from clearing the saw. Mine clogged to the point I thought the chain brake was on. Any pics of your mod to the cover
HuskStihl
Chairin'em for the sound
That seems like a different issue than the bar itself clogging with sawdust. Does stihl offer a larger "noodling" cover for this saw?
71cowboys
ArboristSite Lurker
The bar was clogged as well, had to remove the bar and chain and clean the chain groove on the bar. Never had this issue on any other saws I own.
PhilMcWoody
Recharging Battery
On my 250 I found it was the sprocket that tended to get clogged with chips/splinters whatnot. Some of that, I think, was user error on my part, though. It usually involved bigger than 16" wood and the occasional pinch in some wood and/or cuts where I had a buildup of chips near the nose sprocket.
However, when I clean-up after, I still find guck in the groove, which I clean out with a low E or A guitar string.
However, when I clean-up after, I still find guck in the groove, which I clean out with a low E or A guitar string.
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Good to have a well tuned saw!
Here's my groove cleaning 'trick' - the 'wrong end' of a used recip saw blade - easy to get from any carpenter/plumber/handyman. Add a little duct tape . . . .(I was just 'showing off' with a little heat-shrink tubing on this one).
I like to follow up on the groove with an air compressor if available.
Philbert
ptjeep
Addicted to ArboristSite
You might be on to something here. I've noticed that my saw will occasionally spit out big globs of chips from the clutch cover instead of a steady stream. If chips are bunching up inside the cover then the sprocket/drivelinks could be dragging them back into the bar groove causing the bar rail to clog. Or, maybe its not the bar rail clogging but the slots in the sprocket getting packed with chips and not letting the drivelinks slide into the sprocket.
ih574
New Member
I had same issue with a brand new 261 I bought in October 2011. It had a 18" bar, .325 chain and bar, all Stihl. First time out, I just cut a couple of cookies from a 12" black cherry. When I started cutting the fourth or fifth cookie, the saw locked up, like the chain brake was on. It wasn't. I took the bar off (very easy with those big, captive nuts) and realized the chain was stuck in the bar. The nose wheel turned a lot harder than I thought it should. I checked for bent or misaligned grooves in the bar, but found none. I made sure the chain, the sprocket, and the bar were all compatible, which they were. I also turned up the oil to max. Cleaned the bar, oiled and turned sprocket until it turned freely. Chain ran free in bar and around nose sprocket. Ran the saw a bit to see if oil would fling from the bar and there was none. That night, I soaked the bar and chain in bar oil. Next day, I cut a few more cherry logs (8"). It was nice and torquey, just like people say here - even with only about 1/4 tank of mix used since new. But when I checked the chain again, it was very tight in the bar. Took chain off and cleaned bar groove. Nose sprocket was very tight again. Even with the oil turned up all the way, none was being flung in about three seconds of WOT. Chain wasn't too tight. Drive sprocket, bar, and chain all matched up. I ended up taking that saw back and exchanging for a 346 (from same dealer) since I had many years of Husky satisfaction.
r-
Tom C.
Husky 346
Husky 51/55
Stihl 028
r-
Tom C.
Husky 346
Husky 51/55
Stihl 028
stihl waters
ArboristSite Operative
I just made a series of cuts about 1/8 in. apart all along the ridge with a dremel and then took pliers and gave them a twist and they came right off. Then I just smoothed it down. No pics. as my saw is in the woods. My saw is set up with 3/8 b&c. I assure you that ridge is the problem.
Slackerjpt
ArboristSite Operative
Hi all, just wondering how you all solved the bar issue? I was cutting some fresh ash the other day, and after about 5 cuts, my bar sprocket stopped turning, chain was tight, and it was like I had the brake on. This is becoming very frustrating. Luckily I had my 440 with me as back up. Any thoughts?
Comments above should apply: chain sharp? Depth gauges pointy? Clean bar groove regularly? What do your chips look like?
Replacing some illustrations lost from earlier posts:
Sharp depth gauge tangs.
Bar cleaner
Also, 'worst case scenario': http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/nose-sprocket-rescue-illustrated.256640/
Philbert
Replacing some illustrations lost from earlier posts:
Sharp depth gauge tangs.
Bar cleaner
Also, 'worst case scenario': http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/nose-sprocket-rescue-illustrated.256640/
Philbert
Amp4027
ArboristSite Operative
Sounds like its time to reprofile the chains and crank up the oiler? Try leaving just a bit more slack in the chain as well.
On my new MS193T, it used to do the same thing. It also had piss-poor oiling characteristics, where it would take about 5 seconds of WOT for even a faint oilline to show up with Stihl brand oil. It took about half a gallon of oil put thru it before it started oiling like it should - I have heard a capful or 2 of SeaFoam dropped into the oiltank can help expedite the process, something about the oil/grease they use when assembling the oilpump&nipple is very thick and likes to block the flow. Once I started getting OCD about making sure the bar mating surfaces were completely free of debris, it didn't tend to do it anymore because the oil was going into the groove, instead of running down the side of the bar and getting flung under the sidecover, making a nice sticky pad for chips to get stuck to. The paint they use on the sides of their bars tend to be a culprit as well - it likes to stick to the crankcase and sidecover until it is lightly scraped off with the adjusting screwdriver. When you tighten your chain, make sure you only knock it loose, not any more than where you can shake the bar up and down, then adjust the tension so dust doesn't make its way in there and prevent a proper seal.
Personally, I think ppl overtighten their chains - when your bar heats up from friction, it expands. Same thing with the bar nut. So if you have your chain where when you pinch it and lift up and it barely budges, it becomes rocksolid against the bar after running it WOT for just a few minutes. I like it where: when its cold, it has just enough tension where the bottom of the tooth I pick up can just be seen above the bar. And the bar nut only needs to be finger tight with the swench - Stihl puts the bar nut into the crankcase at 11.6ft/lbs, so adjust accordingly Hulk Sawyer. I find putting the screwdriver part of the swench in the pocket between my thumb and finger and turning until it becomes uncomfortable has kept the bar nut on all the time, and prevented me from kicking the swench to get it off again.
YMMV
Andrew Mitchell
New Member
I work for a stihl dealer and I have gotten the habit of spraying a little penetrating oil down the oiler port before I put the par and chain on. We had some saws that would almost get airlock ed on the oiler and this trick seemed to fix them almost instantly.
LegeaDejului
ArboristSite Lurker
I know this is an old thread, but maybe this will help someone. I too had problems with chip clearance with a 20 inch bar buried or when cutting curls in a wood longer than 10-12 inches. This is my 261, 462 and other similar saws with this kind of cover can be modded in the same way. Wanted to do it in a way that also keeps the aesthetics and the angles, while getting rid of that stupid lip and removed some of the thickness of the lip's edge. Runs flawless so far, not even one plug with sawdust or wood curls.
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