200T stiff to turn over after replacing seals

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crotchclimber

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I tore down a buddy's 200T far enough to replace the crank seals and pressure test. I installed aftermarket metal rimmed seals. They went in well. Oiled bearings, seal surface. Put it all back together and now it's very stiff to turn over. Turned fine before. Put oil in the piston, no difference. Same spark plug in or out. Any ideas what's causing the friction?
@lone wolf
 
Most likely suspect is ;

The aftermarket seals were wider than the oem seals, and the outer metal part is hitting the bearings, and or cages. If driven in way too far, or the wrong depth seal is used, this can happen. Been there, done it on a Husqvarna before.....:mad:

Other less likely suspects are ;

You bent the crank when hammering on the nut to pop off the flywheel?

If you used a rope in the spark plug hole, you might have accidently fed the rope in the exhaust port, breaking the piston and or rings?

You might have bent the rod when backing the clutch off, or tightening, but unlikely on a 200T.

If you used a straight metal piston stop in the angled plug hole, it can put a hole the crown of the piston because of the edge of the stop.
 
Ran into the same problem using an equivalent seal on a old Poulan, metal was too wide at the seal area causing crank to bind. Installed the factor seals and no more problem.

Steve
 
Probably the seal thickness. I have a spare set I'll measure against the OEM seals with calipers. The other things you mentioned aren't likely. I used an OEM plastic piston stop and removed the flywheel with a couple of taps from behind with a plastic hammer.
 
I tore down a buddy's 200T far enough to replace the crank seals and pressure test. I installed aftermarket metal rimmed seals. They went in well. Oiled bearings, seal surface. Put it all back together and now it's very stiff to turn over. Turned fine before. Put oil in the piston, no difference. Same spark plug in or out. Any ideas what's causing the friction?
@lone wolf


I have built MANY 200/020T but have never had that problem.
Could be that I have a procedure that I follow.
After installation, I always "seat" the crank by tapping it sideways with a small hammer.
I do this on both sides of crank.
You should have a small amount of crank side play--usually about .010/.020
 
Are you sure that there is a problem at all It might just be they are tighter than you are used to , that type has a lot more drag than the OEM type seals? Did you drive one or both seals in way to deep? Did you wreck the seal on the clutch side take a real close look at it see if the rubber lip flipped cause the spring came off on the crank stub hump, if not pressure - vacuum test it and run it. Send some clear, close up,well lit pics of the seals in question.
 
Are you sure that there is a problem at all It might just be they are tighter than you are used to , that type has a lot more drag than the OEM type seals? Did you drive one or both seals in way to deep? Did you wreck the seal on the clutch side take a real close look at it see if the rubber lip flipped cause the spring came off on the crank stub hump, if not pressure - vacuum test it and run it.
It's so tight that I can barely get it to turn with the starter. Can't get enough speed to start it. I put the seals level with the surface of the case. The rubber is fine. I used a rolled aluminum can over the crank to slide it on smoothly. Pressure and vacuum tested great.
 
It's so tight that I can barely get it to turn with the starter. Can't get enough speed to start it. I put the seals level with the surface of the case. The rubber is fine. I used a rolled aluminum can over the crank to slide it on smoothly. Pressure and vacuum tested great.
Did you split the cases?
 

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