Chisel grinding and fileing. NOT SQUARE !!

[Knobby57]

Your gettin there. You have a bit of an eagle beak on it . And you might look over the top of the cutters again to make sure they are Sharp.
But That is looking pretty good for getting started. It will be a bit grabby. If you were falling big red cedar It would feed well. Putting a humbolt in a hard western hemlock would be a challenge.
But all in all its good. Everyone that starts chisel filing has a ways to go before they are producing awesome chains every time.

I saw the beak. Looks like I’m a bit into the sideplate . I’ll work on it . I’m cutting mostly oak and beech

 

[fool skip]

Do you guys go a bit aggressive on the depth gauges ? I have mine set on the 16”at .25 . Usually I set them at .30 on round ground . I prefer my chains a bit on the aggressive side and self feed well . I don’t like using the dogs for anything but felling . Most of my cutting is bucking

You should be fine as long as you do't have to saw any jack holes. Tramp knows what I'm talkin about.

 

[tramp bushler]

This is where my knowledge falters. It has been so many decades since I cut beach or oak that I can't say for 100%
But ! I'm 85+% sure 25 k with the way the cutters look. It will feed well.

 

[tramp bushler]

I , myself wouldn't go Any deeper on the dg until you gave it a very good try!!

 

[tramp bushler]

One reason on the west coast we go kinda hungry on our dg depth is we do most of our cutting on the front half of the bar.
What I do know about oak and beech is its not as hard as old growth Sitka spruce limbs. Which I rate as the hardest wood in Alaska.
Even with a good side hook and a little beak , nearly 40 k dg is what I run on 80 cc plus powerheads.

I do know fallers that run full comp 3/8s that run 30k on their depth gauges. And they have fast and smooth cutting chains. I hate full comp on a long bar . So I go deeper on my dg and more hook on my side.

 

[concretegrazer]

Why not ? As the file sits basically in the position to file the cutter. You file down and twist the file into the gullet. The flat takes out the gullet.

Learning here. So your sharpening on the first what 1/2 to 2/3 of the stroke then rolling to the gullet?

Just blew out a 16” chain in about 30 mins . It was round ground . Pretty easy to file oragon chain . I’ll try it out this week and see how it cuts . Looks like I’m getting into the side a bit much . I’ll have to adjust for that . But I’ll try it like it is for now . Me thinks it will blunt fast how it is . View attachment 627144View attachment 627145

Looking good. You're right it won't last long but should put a smile on.

Do you guys go a bit aggressive on the depth gauges ? I have mine set on the 16”at .25 . Usually I set them at .30 on round ground . I prefer my chains a bit on the aggressive side and self feed well . I don’t like using the dogs for anything but felling . Most of my cutting is bucking

I go by feel. Sounds like you'll like some forward lean. Don't go to far or you'll suck the power out.

 

[Knobby57]

I usually run chisel round ground . Gauges at .030 and am very happy with that . Beech isn’t all that hard ,oak isn’t bad either unless is dry , then it’s like cutting stone . Maple is the same way . Now black walnut that stuff just sucks on every level . Im going to try this chain as it is . Not too worried about ruining it .

 

[Skeans]

is a chisel chain I run in all the time dog rakers setup I can't remember, I setup harvester 3/4" as well

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

[tramp bushler]

Learning here. So your sharpening on the first what 1/2 to 2/3 of the stroke then rolling to the gullet?


No , I give it 3 or 4 good strong liks , full length of the file pushing down into the gullet and some roll/ twist.
So from the bottom of the side filing all the way down to the bottom of the gullet it kinda has a convex radius shape. Or a straighter/ single plane angle of +or- 45° .
So , I knock down the gullet then file the cutter.
If a tooth is just wood dull it takes me around 8 strokes of the file to do the gullet and sharpen the tooth.
If it's really screwed up it takes 12 or more with a good Sharp file.
But I do count strokes , and look the chain over. If I really rocked 1 or 2 teeth. I will split the diff and not get them perfect but will work them in over a few filings.
I hope that makes sense.




Looking good. You're right it won't last long but should put a smile on.




I go by feel. Sounds like you'll like some forward lean. Don't go to far or you'll suck the power out.

Well , that didn't come out quite copasetic. If you click to expand my reply is tucked in there.

 

[tramp bushler]

That's the way I file, not in any way saying it's the best way. But it works for me.
An old master bushler named Jack Jodry taught me about keeping the gullet down and out of the way each time you file the cutters . Also copied his filing jig. He was cutting in Rowan Bay one time when I was there workin in the riggin.

 

[madhatte]

An old master bushler named Jack Jodery taught me about keeping the gullet down and out of the way each time you file the cutters .

Those are the guys ya want to pay attention to. They know stuff.

 

[lfnh]

Clean smooth gullets get the chip flow carried out of the kerf with less bind (friction) into side wall of mart
Imo, near as important as that 020-035 sharp side plate down from the corner. Both need each other.

 

[tramp bushler]

The other thing a big gullet does is impede the cutter from cutting the full width. As the tooth gets narrower the further back the point gets. It rubs the side of the kerf. Narrower kerf means there is more friction on the sides of the bar and as ifnh says , chips don't clean out of the kerf as well which increases the tension on the sides of the bar. The sharpest cutter in the world can't fully overcome all that.

 

[madhatte]

What I do with gullets is every few grinds I'll put them backwards on the 510 and grind them back to and even with the bottom of the ground portion of the cutter. Only takes a minute.

 

[fool skip]

Another trick if you want a fast smooth chain is knock off the back corner of the chain with a grinder or file. If you notice on a used chain this corner will get shiny. That means it's rubbing somewhere. This used to be real popular around here. You're not losing anything you will ever use.

 

[madhatte]

I think that's called a clipped corner. I've only seen it on race chains, but it makes sense. Maybe I'll give it a shot.

 

[concretegrazer]

Clipped heal is how I've learned it.

 

[madhatte]

I've heard that one too, might be more correct than "corner"

 

[fool skip]

No use packing all that extra weight.

 

[tramp bushler]

What I do with gullets is every few grinds I'll put them backwards on the 510 and grind them back to and even with the bottom of the ground portion of the cutter. Only takes a minute.

I have used a 510 for doing bullets also. Works like a million bucks !