Stihl 261 C-M bar length and a few other questions...

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I think after lots of reading and checking out various saws, I think am set on a 261. For my needs I think that will be the saw.

1) What bar length would you recommend? I have tall elm trees (50+ feet) and the largest one is 33" in diameter. I do have a 20" Stihl bar and chain. Do those run ok on the 261? Should I get a 16" and swap to the 20" for felling or just get an 18" and forget about it?

2) The one dealer told me I have to take it with a anti-kickback chain. Is that right? I thought the professional level saws don't required that.

3) Any reason NOT to get the C-M and just a regular 261? It seems the 261 has an adjustable oiler is the only difference?
 
I think after lots of reading and checking out various saws, I think am set on a 261. For my needs I think that will be the saw.

1) What bar length would you recommend? I have tall elm trees (50+ feet) and the largest one is 33" in diameter. I do have a 20" Stihl bar and chain. Do those run ok on the 261? Should I get a 16" and swap to the 20" for felling or just get an 18" and forget about it?

2) The one dealer told me I have to take it with a anti-kickback chain. Is that right? I thought the professional level saws don't required that.

3) Any reason NOT to get the C-M and just a regular 261? It seems the 261 has an adjustable oiler is the only difference?

I like my 261 quite a bit. Mine's ported now, but I ran it for a year stock. You can run a 20" bar on it if need be. It wouldn't be my preference (especially for felling trees), but it can be done. Is your bar 3/8 or .325 pitch? These saws definitely like .325 better with a longer bar like that. If it's your only saw, a 16"&20" bar would be a good setup. Two saws would be better, but one saw with two bars can suffice.

Probably up to the dealer.

The difference is whether there's a microchip that controls the carb settings or screws that your adjust with a screwdriver. I have the cm version and in my experience it's been flawless.
 
Just checked, my 20" bar is 3/8" :(

If it's the rollomatic ES type with a replaceable tip, you can switch it over to .325. 20" .325 is far from my favorite thing to sharpen, but it might be the right setup for you. Either that or find a 70cc second saw. :)
 
I'd cut it all up with a 16 bar, its faster in the long run, the 20 slows the saw down, for the 33 inch trees, the first 2 cuts by the butt end will be a pain then it will be fine.
No one runs bigger than 18 inch bars around my place and we cut up trees that size all the time.
 
I'd cut it all up with a 16 bar, its faster in the long run, the 20 slows the saw down, for the 33 inch trees, the first 2 cuts by the butt end will be a pain then it will be fine.
No one runs bigger than 18 inch bars around my place and we cut up trees that size all the time.
Your right you can cut a lot with a 16 inch bar , more than most people think. When I worked clearing right of ways for power and gas lines we ran 16 inch bars a lot because the company was too cheap to buy a bunch of 20 or 24s. We had a few 24s but they only wanted to use them if we had to. We ran 365 and 372 huskys and a few 441 stihls. I’ve cut trees that I should’ve went with the 24 but didn’t want to walk all the way back to the truck and get it.
 
I use 18" .325 on mine and love it. Mine is muffler modded.

I LOVE the mtronic saws. I've had 026s, have a ms260 and the ms261. Hands down its my favorite. No little screwdriver to adjust. Plus restarts are nice. Within 30 minutes 1 pull and go.

Same for the ms362, I've had 036, ms360 and sold them to get the 362.

I've got a ms441 arctic that I wish was the mtronic version....
 
I’m jealous , not that you really need one but a 661 would look right at home there. How do you like the 441? I’m in the market for a new ~70cc saw and am between this a 461 or a 576 Husky.

I really don't need a 661 though, but with CAD, who needs 4 backups... Right now I've got the carb ms441 and a ms461. The ms441 is the same weight as the ms461 but is a true strato and seems to get better fuel usage. The springs have a much nicer feeling for me vs the annular buffers. So I'm compromising power to weight for comfort. The filtration on the ms441 is very huskyish, but head and shoulders above the ms461. I was planning on selling the ms441 because I didnt 'need' a saw that big. But after running it, I changed my mind.

Unfortunately I've never ran a 576 and couldn't give an opinion on it.
 
There is a performance kit Stihl sells for the 261. Its a Picco bar, chain, and sprocket. Makes them cut like a laser.
 
There is a performance kit Stihl sells for the 261. Its a Picco bar, chain, and sprocket. Makes them cut like a laser.

The 261 is a good saw with lo pro, .325, or 3/8. There's pros and cons to all three. Picco might cut like a laser but unless you're in clean wood it won't feel like a laser for long.
 
Picco might cut like a laser but unless you're in clean wood it won't feel like a laser for long.

They are made from the same materials as other Stihl chains. I'm not sure how they would dull faster. Can someone enlighten me? Is it the smaller cutter size?
 
The cutters aren't as wide so they wear/dull faster on picco /3/8 lo pro than on the bigger sizes, a smaller cutting edge is going to wear faster than a big one.

I don't have a stihl but one of my saws had 3/8 lo pro and I switched it to .325 to match my other saws so they can share bars/chains, it slowed it down noticeable.
If you cut clean wood 3/8 lo pro or picco as stihl calls it is fast but in dirty wood it might not be worth it.
 
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