Husqvarna 460 won't spin once tight!

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What causes this much wear? Is this normal for the two years I have been sawing with it? Am I running my chains too tight?

Also confused, am I okay to use my old chains or should I just stick with brand new ones? We'll put in a new sprocket this weekend.
 
Puts too much momentary strain on the shaft/crank/bearings/rod. You usually may get away with it, and a rope is fairly safe, but I have seen damaged (bent) rods - mostly on small Stihls and rods that are not forged. When stopping the piston removing the clutch without impact is the best way imo.
An impact (driver) against compression is always preferable.
 
What causes this much wear? Is this normal for the two years I have been sawing with it? Am I running my chains too tight?

Also confused, am I okay to use my old chains or should I just stick with brand new ones? We'll put in a new sprocket this weekend.

Both an overly tight or loose chain may accelerate sprocket wear. Others may do it differently, but I tighten it as tight as possible but still see the chain move on the bottom of the bar when I pull up on it on top of the bar. It needs to move freely when you pull it by hand. Keeping the chain sharp will reduce the stretching that occurs when it gets hot.

With the cost of chains, it might make sense to use up the old chains if they work OK with the new sprocket, then replace the drum again.
 
Googling a picture of what a sprocket is *supposed* to look like, mine is indeed worn. Mine is so worn that I thought those grooves were supposed to be there.

Green I am, but I ain't afraid to learn! Thanks for the advice and gentle harassment
Don’t sweat not knowing it was worn . I’ve seen worse in my shop .
Think of it as a learning experience . And that “ Experience is that thing you get ,right after you need it . “ .
 

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