I have several saws with damaged slots in the limiter caps on the carb adjustment screws. The damage occurred before the tabs were removed. I know I can go without the caps, but then it is harder for me to find the slot. So I am looking for a simple alternative cap that will allow adjustment with a standard screwdriver. Any suggestions? Thanks. Don
Replacements for damaged limiter caps
- Thread starter BigDee
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,153
- Reaction score
- 24,993
Too vague to get a good response. Put up some pics.
Unfortunately, I removed and discarded the caps on the saw that inspired the question, but I do have others almost as bad so I will try to get a photo.
I am thinking a short length of aluminum tubing forced over the splines on the screw, and a bit of deformation and slotting on the outer end might do the trick.
I am thinking a short length of aluminum tubing forced over the splines on the screw, and a bit of deformation and slotting on the outer end might do the trick.
i use a kit of drivers (spline/pacman/double D ect)
The splines on screws with caps removed are too small for my splined drivers to engage. The slot is OK, but wee. Don
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,153
- Reaction score
- 24,993
Well, you need to let us know what model saw you have.
Can't the screws "walk " without the caps? Loose tune and maybe lean out the saw.
I pulled the caps on my 361 and the screws haven’t given me issues, just the coil, the carb, and now a @#$%^&*~ air leak.
Depends on the saw brand and model as to what kind of Limiter caps they are. My husky uses a spring loaded sleeve that you push down and the tool then engages the splines to adjust the carb screws. The Echo has plastic caps, I am assuming that is the type you have. I pulled mine and ground the tabs off the side then put them back in. Before I put them back in I enlarged the hole on the top of the limiter cap a bit with a drill so a wider screwdriver would fit and they still fit tight enough to keep the carb adjuster screw from walking out. You may be able to save the limiter caps you have by doing this.
Some say so but I have not experience creep on a saw. I do have an ancient Echo blower without limiters that needs to be adjusted every time I use it.
This one is a Husqv 357:
![DSC00461[1].JPG](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/arboristsite/data/attachments/461/461065-1185fceb4a5e9e6aac30a0eb34dfe671.jpg "DSC00461[1].JPG")
It runs so well that I feel compelled to tweak it almost every time I use it, not that it gets much better, but I just have to try.
Here's a similar carb that is out of another one that is just getting put together:
![DSC00459[1].JPG](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/arboristsite/data/attachments/461/461066-e2b0ccf8a81187f81a231cd1988f7085.jpg "DSC00459[1].JPG")
On the Husqv 55s with Zamas, the splined screwdriver will work when the caps are off, but I would prefer to have a slot. On everything really.
![DSC00456[1].JPG](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/arboristsite/data/attachments/461/461067-8a70c384ca9e0f84ab5a7d4aea04b638.jpg "DSC00456[1].JPG")
Do you leave the tubing in place and turn it by finger? Some of my older saws had knurled external screws for idle adjust, and even some of the newer Echo 8000s. I like that.
Yes it is the clunky plastic caps with the wings that have to be amputated.
Have ya thought of getting the splined screw diver adjustment tool, easier that a regular screw driver to adjust the carb and will stay attached to the needles.
Steve Sidwell
Steve Sidwell
I had the tubing just sitting there. I don't know what I'M doing and that happened to work so I stayed with it
