You don't need a moisture tester to check for seasoned wood

[sb47]

Many people ask me how do I tell if my firewood is dry and ready to burn. Many people on this forum use an electronic moisture tester to see the moisture content of there wood.
I bet many do what I do and that is the ring test. It's a simple test anyone can use and it's free.
All you do is simply knock two pieces of wood together and listen to the sound it makes.
Wet or green wood will have a short low thud sound, dry wood will have a higher louder ping or ring to it that last longer then the low thud of green or wet wood.
Different types of wood will have a different ring tone but the principle is the same.
Smaller pieces you can hold one in each hand, and hit them together, bigger pieces you can hold one piece in both hands and knock it against your wood stack and listen to the sound it makes.
I have used this method for years and it works.
The more you do it, the better you get at learning what to listen for.
What method do you use to test your firewood?

 

[H-Ranch]

What method do you use to test your firewood?

Seriously, all of the above. Moisture meter is mostly for curiosity.

 

[merc_man]

I like the moisture metor more for seeing how wet wood is when you first cut it and then check once a month to see it progressing. I have had some read 50 percent when first cut.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

 

[farmer steve]

You can't burn wood if you don't have a moisture meter!! . I really only use mine when I go to firewood auction to pizz people off. A seller will tell me his wood is dry ready to burn and I whip out the MM and his load is 25% or higher.

 

[SS396driver]

Love it when they sound like bowling pins. I still use a meter like H-Ranch said just for my own curiosity

 

[Ted Jenkins]

There are many problems with moisture meters is that they can not be trusted. The meter can check the wood that it comes into contact with, but many times that is only half the story as several have pointed out. The ring test certainly has value. One thing that has been proof is to burn a couple of pieces. That is not always practical. I look at the ends of the split wood for checking. If the checking is consistent through out then that gives me confidence. If I see cracking in the middle parts of the splits then I can be assured it is at least burnable. Thanks

 

[LondonNeil]

Yep, the bowling pins sound, musical ping, like a glockenspiel.

 

[Marley5]

My boiler wood is to big to hold and beat together.
Plus the last time I banged wood together. ....BIGFOOT came running.

 

[stumpy75]

All you do is simply knock two pieces of wood together and listen to the sound it makes.
Wet or green wood will have a short low thud sound, dry wood will have a higher louder ping or ring to it that last longer then the low thud of green or wet wood.
Different types of wood will have a different ring tone but the principle is the same.

This is how a friend who made violins and dulcimers would pick out his wood at the mill(after it was dried). He would clink two pieces together, and he could tell which ones were dry enough, and which ones would have the resonance to make a good instrument. Amazing watching him.

So, yes, I learned from him about how to at least tell dry wood by the sound. I was never good enough to hear the resonance nuances though.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Have several meters. For the most part the cheap ones work just as well as the expensive ones.

I'm not a big fan of the shallow pin style. You need to take readings all over to get an average. It's doable, but a contactless one is much more practical.

One setup we drill about 8" into the wood and stick 2 long probes. It stays in there while in the kiln.

I can't tell between 30% and 20% without a meter. And I want to be right around 15-20%, as lower means I'm wasting time and money.
I ran the kiln too long one batch and ended up with 6-8% wood.

I need the wood to be 20% or under to certify it as seasoned.
I'm actually one of the very few wood producers in the state that is state certified.

 

[nathan4104]

For hardwoods, to tell if they are dry, put some dish soap on one end, and blow against the other. If it’s dry and weather cracked, you’ll make bubbles
Not very scientific and likely not accurate but it’s fun to see!

 

[dave_dj1]

I use the bowling pin analogy as well, love that sound!

 

[svk]

I have a moisture meter that I haven’t used in years.

I frequently use the bowling pin thing. However I’ve whacked maple rounds together that rang and split them to find a wet center.

Weight test is the best for me. If it’s not punky and it’s light then it’s ready.

90 percent of the wood I burn in a year goes through my boiler though. The only prerequisite is that if fits through the door. Next spring I’m going to make a couple of plywood jigs the size of the door and paint them bright colors so I don’t lose them. Then when I’m doing big wood I’ll know exactly if they’ll fit.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

I just leave it stacked for 3-5 years, fill crib at end of burning season. Then it goes into OWB and heats our home the next year. Always seems to burn just fine.

 

[Multifaceted]

I use one like others have mentioned — out of curiosity for sometimes some type of affirmation. Generally a minimum of one year split and stacked, two for oak and hickory. I'll look at the checking on the end grain, then clap some pieces together to get an idea of how dry it is. When the time draws near to where I might pull some for the burning season, I'll take a few random pieces, split them and take a reading with the meter in various places. If I'm >20% then that's all the confirmation I'll need.

I don't understand why some people sh!t on using moisture meters, they're just another tool like a chainsaw.

 

[Marley5]

Yep, I look for 20% myself.

I use one when I'm out cutting standing deads to see if I can haul it straight to the boiler.
The Ash I cut yesterday was 23% at the base and up about 10 ft and 15% on the limbs.

 

[H-Ranch]

The Ash I cut yesterday was 23% at the base and up about 10 ft and 15% on the limbs.

I the ash.

 

[alleyyooper]

OH CRAP I am in deep caca as I have been cutting, carrying in the house and burning fire wood since I was about 8 years old. I am 73 Now and still don't have a moisture meter of any kind digital or other wise.
Some how I have managed with out hurting any one who used their brains.

Sorry wifie I told you to always work across the pile and not just from the end. You didn't listen and that is why the pile fall and crushed your toes.

Al

 

[JeffHK454]

Since our boy Whitespider is over in the political forum beating down those commie libtards I’ll channel his canned response.

”Cheapo moisture meters are completely inaccurate and offer no real info , the only way an instrument like this can offer a reliable reading is if it’s calibrated using a known standard”

 

[blakey]

I just leave it stacked for 3-5 years, fill crib at end of burning season. Then it goes into OWB and heats our home the next year. Always seems to burn just fine.

Wow, being consistently 3-5yrs ahead on wood for an owb is impressive. Stacking it all even moreso. How many cords do you burn per year?