Noob to saws and site, Husky 55

[DaddyFlip]

This is an excellent site/community; I've learned a lot over the last few days and decided to join.

We just had four tornadoes hit my area and I have 17 trees down or damaged. Tree service wanted over $11k to sweep and clear, so I decided I should "get into saws", even though I have hated chainsaws all my life. Thankfully, a guy came by and wanted all the big stuff for lumber, so all I have to do is clear out the limbing and do small bucking. My homeowner Craftsman 42/18 carb died (a plastic throttle link broke), so my good neighbor gave me a spare Husky 55 (1993 vintage, complete with "Made in Sweden" stamped on all the parts, with a 20" 3/8-.50 that wouldn't start. The starting was easy (gummed up flywheel pawls) and it ran pretty well with the 20 and a new chain.

After studying a lot on this site, I decided to buy a 16" .325-.50 setup for the saw since bucking is only 10-12" pine max.

The chainbrake handle and side cover where the flat spring clips in was melted, even though the muffler diverter was intact. I've ordered a new muffler gasket and OE chainbrake. I've also ordered a carry box and Arborwear RSC calf wrap chaps. Hope these are good?

Anything else I should do or check to make this saw run great? Kinda my new hobby as it's like motorcycles (I have two); engine, chain, potentially dangerous. I'm going to fab a heat shield to protect the new chainbrake (not cheap, the side cover was roasted where the spring clips in).

I'm already looking for another, larger saw to refurb. What's a good one to work on? Brand isn't important as long as parts are readily available.

 

[Jkstihl]

Cant go wrong with a husqvarna 372xp or a stihl 046/460. Either of those would put you in the game.

 

[gary courtney]

This is an excellent site/community; I've learned a lot over the last few days and decided to join.

We just had four tornadoes hit my area and I have 17 trees down or damaged. Tree service wanted over $11k to sweep and clear, so I decided I should "get into saws", even though I have hated chainsaws all my life. Thankfully, a guy came by and wanted all the big stuff for lumber, so all I have to do is clear out the limbing and do small bucking. My homeowner Craftsman 42/18 carb died (a plastic throttle link broke), so my good neighbor gave me a spare Husky 55 (1993 vintage, complete with "Made in Sweden" stamped on all the parts, with a 20" 3/8-.50 that wouldn't start. The starting was easy (gummed up flywheel pawls) and it ran pretty well with the 20 and a new chain.

After studying a lot on this site, I decided to buy a 16" .325-.50 setup for the saw since bucking is only 10-12" pine max.

The chainbrake handle and side cover where the flat spring clips in was melted, even though the muffler diverter was intact. I've ordered a new muffler gasket and OE chainbrake. I've also ordered a carry box and Arborwear RSC calf wrap chaps. Hope these are good?

Anything else I should do or check to make this saw run great? Kinda my new hobby as it's like motorcycles (I have two); engine, chain, potentially dangerous. I'm going to fab a heat shield to protect the new chainbrake (not cheap, the side cover was roasted where the spring clips in).

I'm already looking for another, larger saw to refurb. What's a good one to work on? Brand isn't important as long as parts are readily available.

Welcome to the site. 372 xp oe as stated is an excellent saw. can't go wrong with a stihl 461 or a 361.

 

[Efisher26]

If it wasn’t dangerous it wouldn’t be cool

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cus_deluxe]

so I decided I should "get into saws", even though I have hated chainsaws all my life.

.......may wanna be careful with that kind of language around here......lol

 

[Sepia]

.......may wanna be careful with that kind of language around here......lol

Easy there Custer... don't want to discourage the newly converted

 

[Jkstihl]

Easy there Custer... don't want to discourage the newly converted

No worries..he is a slave to the addiction at this point.

 

[DaddyFlip]

No worries..he is a slave to the addiction at this point.

Yep... I'm like that. I'll probably have half a dozen before long. Hiding somewhere in the shed.

 

[svk]

Welcome!

 

[cuinrearview]

Yep... I'm like that. I'll probably have half a dozen before long. Hiding somewhere in the shed.

Putting my $$ on the over

 

[cus_deluxe]

ok, that covers the ball busting i guess. 55s are really solid saws with few issues. they do love to melt the chainbrake, ive cut little gills in the muffler away from the plastic stuff, lets it breath better and relieve some heat. on a used saw, id replace the fuel line and the small impulse grommet that fits into cylinder, its a known failure point, as is the plastic carb bulkhead (carb screws thread into plastic, which strips eventually and causes an air leak). those part oem are like $17, plus new quality fuel line, that saw should be good for a long time.

 

[smokey7]

That series of saws from the 50 51 55cp and 55op. All great saws but all have the same weakness at the intake/impulse area. If you are aware of it

 

[Sepia]

That series of saws from the 50 51 55cp and 55op. All great saws but all have the same weakness at the intake/impulse area. If you are aware of it

I've always wondered what Husky engineers were thinking when they designed that intake setup. The whole saw is well built and robust, but the intake belongs on a $40 chinese chainsaw.

 

[svk]

I've always wondered what Husky engineers were thinking when they designed that intake setup. The whole saw is well built and robust, but the intake belongs on a $40 chinese chainsaw.

Same.

I suppose they never tested them long enough to the point that the rubber failed.

 

[Sepia]

I've always wondered what Husky engineers were thinking when they designed that intake setup. The whole saw is well built and robust, but the intake belongs on a $40 chinese chainsaw.

Of course, I repair cars for a living, so I have a few choice words for engineers pretty much on a daily basis.

 

[cuinrearview]

Of course, I repair cars for a living, so I have a few choice words for engineers pretty much on a daily basis.

I believe the mechanic vs engineer struggle transcends all fields Chris. Things just aren't built with failure in mind any longer.

 

[svk]

Of course, I repair cars for a living, so I have a few choice words for engineers pretty much on a daily basis.

Yes sir. Those engineers clearly never expected any mechanical part to be changed in any car newer than the early 80's!

Think of those older trucks with a straight 6....you literally could put a small adult in the engine bay on each side of the engine and shut the hood! LOL

 

[Sepia]

I believe the mechanic vs engineer struggle transcends all fields Chris. Things just aren't built with failure in mind any longer.

Absolutely, Tim. And the "better mousetrap" syndrome as well. I must say though, that there are some excellent engineering designs employed as well. I would never say that engineers don't know what they are doing, just that some are much brighter than others.

 

[svk]

And some engineers make minor changes just for the sake of making change or to try and strong arm the consumer to purchase their proprietary parts.

-Why are there 50 different styles of automotive oil filters when a solid half of them are the same exterior diameter and the only difference is thread pitch or diameter?
-Why do we need several different bolt spacing patterns for a 5 (or 6 or 8) lug wheel?
-Why do we need .050, .058, and .063 chain of the same pitch?
-Bar mount patterns go the same way, we really only need small, medium, and large.
-Why do Echo and Stihl make their bars a bit longer or shorter so you need to be one DL off of the standard loop for that length bar.

 

[grizz55chev]

Absolutely, Tim. And the "better mousetrap" syndrome as well. I must say though, that there are some excellent engineering designs employed as well. I would never say that engineers don't know what they are doing, just that some are much brighter than others.

Bean counters and engineers do constant battle, with the engineers on the losing side.