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SOunds like no harness...sad

I'm in TAS...semi chisel works longer for dirty wood, by far...or I take two or three chisel chains out on the job so I can swap them out, or touch up the chain when needed during the job... Don't bother with carbide...too expensive and too difficult to sharpen. Otherwise we burn...

Put ONE carabiner on your bridge, there is plenty of room in one biner, clip the eye of your split tail into it, get one that has a tight eye, or make it tight with a couple of zip ties. . Tie the end of your climb line to the SAME biner with a double fisherman's, this will cinch down and stay...

Where do you want to work? If its around houses and small parks and stuff, pruning, thinning, removals then Arborist, or Urban Forestry (fancy name for residential arboriculture) If its in the woods, timber production, felling, then Forestry

Most top production climbers are wearing 'new' style harnesses (aka: not leather and felt and massive steel D's and non floating bridges, and skinny back pads and leg loops), they're not really new, having been around for more than 10 years already, I bought my Butterfly in 2003! The...

^^^ What he said...what's so different about what you need that a $25 existing lanyard won't do the trick? I use the Buckingham bungee breakaway lanyard, but with a small screw carabiner instead of the clip. I have a bentgate crab on my harness to clip the ring into to get it up on my hip...

Pelorus and Beastmaster have given you two sound and reasoned answers. You can't go wrong following their advice, they have summarized neatly what I would have said.

Crown thinning is still an acceptable method of reducing wind load. How much and how big depends on the tree species, how it responds to pruning and its condition. As long as you still target prune, to acceptable sized laterals and branch collars, you should be ok IMO.

You've been given a lot of good advice here, take it. When you've got your kit, read Climber's Companion five times, have figured out how to go up and down without ever being unsecured...come down and start again. Then get a good idea of how wood reacts when it is under different loads...

Well then, carry on mate! I much prefer the cooler weather to the heat now...sticky humid hot weather makes me grumpy.:msp_angry:

A combination, check out the radar, and local weather websites AND develop a sense for the intrinsic weather patterns in your area. Learn a bit about clouds and what the patterns mean, prevailing wind directions, cold, dry, wet...what's the difference between a cold and warm front, what happens...

You must still be young...it all reverses once you pass 40...:msp_tongue:

WHat you gonna rest your feet on once you get to the top? If not using spikes better bring some loop runners or its going to get mighty tiring just hanging off the rope...

He is NOT a tree surgeon...he's just a guy on a ladder with a saw getting it badly wrong. He's fortunate to be alive.

I'm still using my HC with a tied termination on my climb line...double fisherman's on a biner in the middle hole, the biner with my hitch cord is in the bottom hole. A little more attention is needed to ensure the knot doesn't interfere with the hitch, but it is acceptable. Running a 5wrap...

I use a ring and ring FS almost all the time now...as Shaun said, adding a pulley to it has the advantage for going up, but the disadvantage of having to hold on tighter when pausing to bring your hitch up. A ring and ring seems to strike a nice middle ground, less friction overall, but enough...

One has to consider the Mass:Energy Ratio...can a tree produce enough energy to support its mass? If one tops a tree, in response we all know it sends out loads of watersprouts to initially compensate for the loss of photosynthetic capability...I could speculate that there may be a...

No, no, NO!!! Setting a pull line you should be at least 2/3rds the way up the tree at LEAST! Pre-tensioning and going back up at 50' is ASKING to be killed, that upper portion is too big to cut in one from that low down. Please tell me you would not be cutting from a ladder or your deer...

I'd hardly call the work needed to make a 201 run like a 200 a 'few slight modifications!' I climb trees and use chainsaws for a living... a decent running stock saw (with a spark arrestor pulled) is all thats needed to bring in the $$$. Working on saws to that extent is not on my...

Gotcha! Yes the HH can be used for both, sorry if I made it sound like its only an SRT thing. HH comes with a hitch cord included, and the carabiners, quite a good deal by the sound of it. Several years ago I did what he sounds like he's keen on doing...moving on from blakes to a the hitch...