Help on making a custom chainsaw lanyard

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blrobison

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I'm looking to make my own chainsaw lanyard since I haven't been able to find one that quite fits all my needs. The one I have now works ok but I might add an additional metal loop or snap hook so that I can clip the chainsaw right near my hip.

My initial strategy on making this new lanyard is using tubular webbing, sew a loop on one end for girth hitching to my saddle, the other end for attaching the chainsaw will be a small snap hook, then right behind that will be a medium sized snap hook or carabiner for easy clipping to my hip loop. I may add other attachment points when I see fit but that's the basics of what I want.

The part that I'm concerned about is what kind of thread should I use for sewing this all together? I didn't really want to use traditional thread for clothing and such since I expect that quality of thread would be too weak for this line of work. I'm wondering if anyone has had any success with a certain kind of thread for arborist applications or have other advice on how to go about making a custom chainsaw lanyard.
 
I'm looking to make my own chainsaw lanyard since I haven't been able to find one that quite fits all my needs. The one I have now works ok but I might add an additional metal loop or snap hook so that I can clip the chainsaw right near my hip.

You would be better off girth hitching it to the saw and cliping it to your harness.
 
A 100% polyester thread would work the best for sewing with. If you go to a sewing shop and ask for a size V-46 polyester thread, you can run it thru a standard needle for a sewing machine or by hand. Tandy Leather sells a leather hand sew kit that has some really thick poly string. Just ideas. I have used the V-46 thread for sewing nylon webbing for straps, and I have made game bags for hauling out elk that were stuffed and not a single stitch has failed.
 
Did you rule out 3/8 3-strand? You can splice it easily to make what you want, and add some whipping or heat shrink after your eye splices are complete for a neat look. I make a lot of my friction savers out of 1/2 3 strand with alum rings and whip it when I'm done. There's a lot you can do with that 3-strand rope , I have a decent trick that I use for an adjustable friction saver with that type rope and it works great IMO .
 
not sure if you have looked at these on Sherriltree.com or not but they offer one with a steel ring on one end(harness maybe) and a small snap on the other(which is great if running a 200t). Directly above this snap is another steel ring. you could run a biner through it and connect to your harness that way. Or, if your harness has a small clip on it, the lower steel ring could be clipped there to keep saw close to your hip. Don't know if this helps or not...maybe post what you come up with. I do like the idea of a breakaway though. The one I described above is also a breakaway.
 
look at gore tenara sewing thread. It is designed for outdoor application and isnt affected by weather or sun
 
Seems to me you are reinventing the wheel, unless its length that is an issue, the current lanyards do just what I think your looking for.

weaverbungee.jpg
 
^^^ What he said...what's so different about what you need that a $25 existing lanyard won't do the trick?
I use the Buckingham bungee breakaway lanyard, but with a small screw carabiner instead of the clip. I have a bentgate crab on my harness to clip the ring into to get it up on my hip...

Just wondering...
 
tree pig,
that lanyard is what I'm currently using but I was trying to get away from unclipping the saw to attach to the metal ring. Right now I have the carabiner going through the ring of the metal clip which then goes right to the saddle so that it can be right near my hip. I'd like to have 2 different clips sewn straight into the lanyard so that one is for the saw and the other for attaching to the saddle. I'm using a Husqvarna T435 so girth hitching the lanyard to the handle doesn't quite feel right to me if there's hooks on the back to attach to.

I don't mind making my own lanyard since it seems pretty simple and straightforward. It's the kind/brand of thread that I was wondering about. Plus I'm looking to possibly sew some webbing slings since I have about 25 yards of tubular webbing. I will check out the Buckingham breakaway though.
 
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tree pig,
that lanyard is what I'm currently using but I was trying to get away from unclipping the saw to attach to the metal ring. Right now I have the carabiner going through the ring of the metal clip which then goes right to the saddle so that it can be right near my hip. I'd like to have 2 different clips sewn straight into the lanyard so that one is for the saw and the other for attaching to the saddle. I'm using a Husqvarna T435 so girth hitching the lanyard to the handle doesn't quite feel right to me if there's hooks on the back to attach to.

I don't mind making my own lanyard since it seems pretty simple and straightforward. It's the kind/brand of thread that I was wondering about. Plus I'm looking to possibly sew some webbing slings since I have about 25 yards of tubular webbing. I will check out the Buckingham breakaway though.


I get what he's saying. I demoed a t435 and one of the things I didn't like was the lanyard spot on the back of the saw. The hole is so small it's tough to girth hitch a regular lanyard through. I just put a screw link on it, girth hitched through that, problem solved.
 
I get what he's saying. I demoed a t435 and one of the things I didn't like was the lanyard spot on the back of the saw. The hole is so small it's tough to girth hitch a regular lanyard through. I just put a screw link on it, girth hitched through that, problem solved.

Thats exactly what I do... but just because it seems even though they are just girth hitched, when that lanyard has been on a while and its full of dirt, oil and saw dust it can be a pain to get off when the need arises
 
Don't laugh at me too loud but I just took a extra horse lead rope tied a loop and put a large beener that I clipped to the saw. The other end just went to my climbing belt. I guess you could call it a cheap way out but it worked for me.
 
Don't laugh at me too loud but I just took a extra horse lead rope tied a loop and put a large beener that I clipped to the saw. The other end just went to my climbing belt. I guess you could call it a cheap way out but it worked for me.

As long as it works, but on the other hand.....

The other climber on this pipeline contract is old school, makes a lot of his own gear, and dropped a saw out of the tree. Especially when I'm contract climbing I make sure all my gear is name brand, certified and in good condition. If a saw comes out of my tree I can just say call Buckingham.
 
My fix was a last minute oh #### i forgot something before climbing my very first tree. The funny thing is that it is still working and I have been in 4-5 other trees with it. I will most likely call buckingham some day but for now I am only doing my trees and the parents trees. Certified is the best and smartest way to go but in a pinch you sometimes have to make due. It was a McGiver fix, lol.
 
My fix was a last minute oh #### i forgot something before climbing my very first tree. The funny thing is that it is still working and I have been in 4-5 other trees with it. I will most likely call buckingham some day but for now I am only doing my trees and the parents trees. Certified is the best and smartest way to go but in a pinch you sometimes have to make due. It was a McGiver fix, lol.

This thread did actually get me thinking, and that experience reinforced, that there is no such thing as unimportant gear. When his homemade lanyard failed, there was no warning, I think a branch opened up his clip. The saw missed a groundie by 6 feet. Like I said before, I don't have a problem with homemade gear, butit definitely needs to be done right and up to standards. Even a saw lanyard can be dangerous, not to the climber but to those on the ground.
 

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