511AX Vise

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Philbert

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I just got a new-to-me Tecomec chain grinder with a similar auto-centering vise as on the Oregon 511AX. As I was going over the grinder (cleaning up castings, etc.) I noticed how much more complex the vise is, compared to the 511A, and that there are small, greased spaces on either side of the vise jaws.

Do filings ever build up in these areas or do they stay pretty smooth?

I recall when these first came out there were some problems with the vises. Anybody experienced any lately?

Thanks.

Philbert
 
I just got a new-to-me Tecomec chain grinder with a similar auto-centering vise as on the Oregon 511AX. As I was going over the grinder (cleaning up castings, etc.) I noticed how much more complex the vise is, compared to the 511A, and that there are small, greased spaces on either side of the vise jaws.

Do filings ever build up in these areas or do they stay pretty smooth?

I recall when these first came out there were some problems with the vises. Anybody experienced any lately?

Thanks.

Philbert

Keep it clean. I'm on my third vise, maybe due to neglect and use but regardless, my third.
 
Trying to ferret out the difference in the Oregon grinders and the Tecomec counterparts is a real chore.

Apparently there possibly three different iterations of the 511AX? Who knows trying to follow the advertising?

The 511AX came out in 2009 and Oregon still doesn't have a manual for it. The manual comes up as the 511A

A good manual for the 511AX is that of the Tecomec Jolly Star?
 
Trying to ferret out the difference in the Oregon grinders and the Tecomec counterparts is a real chore.

Apparently there possibly three different iterations of the 511AX? Who knows trying to follow the advertising?

The 511AX came out in 2009 and Oregon still doesn't have a manual for it. The manual comes up as the 511A

A good manual for the 511AX is that of the Tecomec Jolly Star?

My AX came with a specific manual. Uploading a vid of said wear.
 
My statement was based on what comes up on Bailey's and the Oregon websites.

They show what might be a PDF manual but it is just a one page feature sales flyer
 
My statement was based on what comes up on Bailey's and the Oregon websites.

They show what might be a PDF manual but it is just a one page feature sales flyer

Yes, I see where you're coming from.
 
mweba said:
I'm on my third vise, maybe due to neglect and use but regardless, my third.
Mark - how did you break/damage/lose the first 2 vises?

w8ye said:
Trying to ferret out the difference in the Oregon grinders and the Tecomec counterparts is a real chore. . . .A good manual for the 511AX is that of the Tecomec Jolly Star?

Tilton has the manual for the Jolly Star , Speed Sharp, etc. versions on their website as a download. Not a very good manual, especially for someone new. Some stuff on parts and angles for grinder nerds.

Tilton Equipment :: Tecomec Manuals & Parts Lists

The big differences between these and the 511AX is the wheel wear compensation/adjustment slide that the Oregon has. The last 511AX I saw had a reposition-able handle on the back (grinder head tilt), instead of a simple star knob - I would like both of these to be 'T'- knobs, which are easier to grip.

Compared to the 511A, this generation of grinders have: the self-centering vise; a double-legged spring to distribute force more evenly; additional markings for head tilt and vise rotation positioning when using the 10 degree tilt feature. Like I said: grinder nerds.

Philbert
 
And I think you mentioned elsewhere that with the 10 degree tilt on the right hand cutters the vice handle gets in the way of the degree settings on the vice to where you cannot read them.

Some Tecomecs have reversible motors as the single direction on Oregon and some Tecomec grinders deal is a U/L listing thing for the USA.
 
Beware of Angle Scale

Hey, I thought I would throw this in. My 511a sharpening angle scale on the front is on the nose left and right, so I have great faith in using it. However, my buddy bought a 511ax just recently and found his was off by a whopping 3 degrees. For a 25-degree setting he was actually sharpening 28 on the left and 22 on the right. This made it impossible for the saw to cut straight down on a buck.

Be careful of this. You can check it by setting it at exactly 0 degrees and adjusting it to graze a tooth's raker. Do this for two consecutive teeth. If it grazes them both the same (like mine does), the scale is on the nose. In his case, he was knocking way more off one raker than than the next one on the other side of the chain. Check several teeth to be sure.

After I showed him this, you could have lit a match on the back of his neck. He had already sharpened about 20 chains out of whack. I'm not sure if that angle scale can be adjusted because it's factory installed and asembled. Maybe Philbert has an idea. :msp_unsure:
 
You can buy new degree scales easily enough from various sources. They come as a complete set.

Some models, the degree scales are screw in while others have drive screws.

They can be removed and repositioned. If messed up, you can get new ones.

You can get the drive screws at most hardware stores.
 
I found the English language portion of a early 511AX operator's manual on the Northern Tool site but there are no labeled pictures to go along with the instructions.

www.northerntool.com/images/downloads/manuals/193070.pdf

Northern wants $33 for a Oregon grinding wheel. I found genuine Oregon wheels from other sources for $19
 
There is a bushing that wears. It takes hundreds of chains to make them sloppy.

Pardon my three Leines commentary. Wiggs will vouch for my relaxed nature. We had a "conversation" shortly after this vid....:hmm3grin2orange:


[video=youtube_share;UcojCQW4Lag]http://youtu.be/UcojCQW4Lag[/video]
 
There is a bushing that wears. It takes hundreds of chains to make them sloppy.

Pardon my three Leines commentary. Wiggs will vouch for my relaxed nature. We had a "conversation" shortly after this vid....:hmm3grin2orange:


[video=youtube_share;UcojCQW4Lag]http://youtu.be/UcojCQW4Lag[/video]

Could said bushing be renewed or made?
 
Northern wants $33 for a Oregon grinding wheel. I found genuine Oregon wheels from other sources for $19

NT is funny about that. Most items they discount, but Oregon products (chains, etc.) seem up close to list.
Baileys sells Molemab wheels for $14, and periodically on sale for $10.

Philbert
 
My 511a sharpening angle scale on the front is on the nose left and right, so I have great faith in using it. However, my buddy bought a 511ax just recently and found his was off by a whopping 3 degrees.

On my 511A I removed the upper motor tilt scale, slightly enlarged the holes, and reinstalled it with double stick carpet tape and the screws so that it at least 'agreed' with the motor tilt scale on the front of the casting at 60 degrees. My vise rotation scale was accurate.

On this Tecomec grinder, the vise rotation scale was installed crooked and hitting the vise. So I removed it, filed the top smooth, enlarged one of the holes, and reinstalled it. Still have to check it for accuracy. I like to put a new chain in the vise and 'match' the angles R & L to do this.

Philbert
 
There is a bushing that wears. It takes hundreds of chains to make them sloppy.

The vise assembly is $120 + shipping

Could said bushing be renewed or made?

Would replacing one of these pieces save the vise?

Philbert

attachment.php
 
Will tear it apart tonight...if I have time.
 
Those are Tecomec part numbers. I don't know if they might have different part numbers, or be more available from Oregon than Tilton, but their customer service has always been responsive to me (Tel: 1-800-223-5168 E-mail: [email protected]).

If it 'solves' the vise wobble problem then I will want to order a few to have on hand for down-the-road. And, of course, we will want to let everyone know!

Thanks for doing this.

Philbert
 

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