Grinding depth guages

[memory]

I just recently got a Oregon 410 120 grinder to do the depth gauges. According to the manual, it says to do both sides in one pass. I know when using a hand file, you are supposed to go in one direction. Why would it be different on a grinder? When doing both sides in the same direction, it looks like each side hits a different part of the wheel and be done at different heights. Should I just do one side at a time and flip it for the other side?

I really haven't got to use the grinder that much yet. But one thing I noticed is the height stop leaves a bit to be desired. There can be a lot of variation on how much pressure you apply if you are not careful. On mounting the grinder, has anybody mounted it where the vise is at eye level?

 

[huskihl]

I do both sides in the same pass. The reason most file them inside out is because when on the bar, the chain can move making the file more likely to chatter going outside in. Where on the grinder, the drive links are clamped in place.
If your raker height varies from side to side, your vise is not centered on the wheel.
The “slop” in the depth setting takes some getting used to, easily .008” difference in height from barely touching the stop to forcing the head down. After awhile you get familiar with it and learn what to feel for. I’ve done it like this for a few years and my chains always seem to cut straight

 

[memory]

I do both sides in the same pass. The reason most file them inside out is because when on the bar, the chain can move making the file more likely to chatter going outside in. Where on the grinder, the drive links are clamped in place.
If your raker height varies from side to side, your vise is not centered on the wheel.
The “slop” in the depth setting takes some getting used to, easily .008” difference in height from barely touching the stop to forcing the head down. After awhile you get familiar with it and learn what to feel for. I’ve done it like this for a few years and my chains always seem to cut straight

How do I go about centering the vise? Looks like if I do move it, it only tilts it and would not help it out

 

[huskihl]

How do I go about centering the vise? Looks like if I do move it, it only tilts it and would not help it out

Is there a set screw and jam nut on the back of the vise?

 

[memory]

Is there a set screw and jam nut on the back of the vise?

Here is what the vise looks like.

 

[user 122190]

Don't use a bench grinder on the rakers. Doesn't account for different cutter length variants.

 

[huskihl]

Don't use a bench grinder on the rakers. Doesn't account for different cutter length variants.

If you’re grinding the rakers, you’re probably grinding the cutters. The cutters will most likely be the same length anyway

 

[Skeans]

This is a 511ax that I’ve setup to do depth gauges the knob under the vise is how you set your centering, with this model on the front of the vise is marks for downward angle as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[huskihl]

This is a 511ax that I’ve setup to do depth gauges the knob under the vise is how you set your centering, with this model on the front of the vise is marks for downward angle as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The set screw I was referring to is here circled in yellow.


Doesn’t look like the OP’s grinder has one

 

[Philbert]

I had some problems doing depth gauges on a grinder at first. Part of it was a ‘head thing’ (my head). Part of it was the low kickback STIHL chains with the triple-humped, bumper tie straps (older style). Now it’s smooth grinding.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/depth-gauges-on-a-grinder.200410/
The depth gauges are located at the far right and left sides of the chain, not down the center. So it is possible that the grinding wheel will grind them to different heights, even if centered over the middle of the chain. If this is an issue, grind the depth gauges on one side, check the height, re-set the grinding wheel slightly, then grind the depth gauges on the other side of the chain.

I like to smooth and round over the edges of the depth gauges afterwards, for a smooth cut, using a file, or a ScotchBrite abrasive wheel.

Some guys will profile a dedicated grinding wheel specifically for depth gauges, to lower and shape them at the same time.

Philbert

 

[memory]

The set screw I was referring to is here circled in yellow.
View attachment 942998

Doesn’t look like the OP’s grinder has one

Yeah doesn't look like I have that.

 

[huskihl]

Yeah doesn't look like I have that. View attachment 942999

Any chance those Allen head bolts have some slop in the holes where you could loosen, tap one way or the other, and then re-tighten?

 

[memory]

I had some problems doing depth gauges on a grinder at first. Part of it was a ‘head thing’ (my head). Part of it was the low kickback STIHL chains with the triple-humped, bumper tie straps (older style). Now it’s smooth grinding.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/depth-gauges-on-a-grinder.200410/
The depth gauges are located at the far right and left sides of the chain, not down the center. So it is possible that the grinding wheel will grind them to different heights, even if centered over the middle of the chain. If this is an issue, grind the depth gauges on one side, check the height, re-set the grinding wheel slightly, then grind the depth gauges on the other side of the chain.

I like to smooth and round over the edges of the depth gauges afterwards, for a smooth cut, using a file, or a ScotchBrite abrasive wheel.

Some guys will profile a dedicated grinding wheel specifically for depth gauges, to lower and shape them at the same time.

Philbert

I read through part of that thread, will have to give it a thorough read.

For the depth gauges not hitting the same spot on the grinder wheel, like you mentioned I set one side, then checked and reset for the other side. Since doing 2 chains, I have not had a chance to cut any wood to see how they do.

I did profile the wheel according to the manual. Do you mean some will go further than that?

I have an Oregon 511a grinder with CBN wheels that I use to sharpen chains. I got this 410-120 grinder just to do depth gauges. One thing I did with this grinder is I mounted it where the vise is at eye level, not sure if I will leave it like that or not. And to help keep down pressure consistent, I added a 3lb weight to the handle. That is part of the reason not sure if I will leave it mounted at eye level, shoulders can get tired having to hold the head up while checking the rakers.

 

[blades]

I have been doing depth gauges on the chop saw units for years- always been a royal pia. and the wheels wear very quickly. Researched having wheels made ( much harder that the current wheels to minimize wear factor) my cost was going to be apx 18 ea.+ shipping min order of 25. I do this commercially .Weekend before last was 125 chains one sitting. That would have burned through a minimum of 2 standard wheels perhaps more. Not to mention it takes along as doing the cutters them selves. Ponied up and bought a unit that is made just for depth gauges. Only takes a couple minutes to do a 105 drive link chain after set up for that length. ( around 10-15minutes to set length at present), so it was about 45 minutes to do 20 chains of that drive count. Of course this is not cost effective for just doing a few of your own.
You really have to be careful that the chain is clamped real tight other wise the depth gauge gets pulled by the rotation of the wheel. Ending up with front significantly shorter than the rear. Even then you have set height independantly for both sides.

 

[bigtree]

Don't use a bench grinder on the rakers. Doesn't account for different cutter length variants.

Cutter lengths should be all the same if they're being sharpened correctly... You'll have poor cutting if they're not.

 

[The Shooters Apprentice]

Is there a set screw and jam nut on the back of the vise?

Not on the 410-120

 

[The Shooters Apprentice]

I grind rakers on the 410-120 I have and it’s a pain. The vice does not sit center of the wheel so you can’t really do both sides in one pass.

First off, I dress the wheel at 80° and then rotate the head to 70° and this gives the rakers a nice forward slant. Assuming the chain was ground and all teeth are the same length, I’ll hand file one raker and then bring down the head till the stone just kisses that one, and then grind all the rakers on the side of the chain, then do the same thing for the other side of the chain.

 

[user 122190]

Cutter lengths should be all the same if they're being sharpened correctly... You'll have poor cutting if they're not.

Easier said then done, and cutting is fine as long as the raker depths are the same relative to the cutter it precedes.

If you rock a chain bad you might have excessive damage to several cutters, but not all. Are you going to take down the undamaged cutters to conform with the few damaged and recovered cutters? You can really shorten your chains life. No of course not. Just lower the rakers to the proper depth on the recovered cutters and you are back in business.

You're new, and this had been discussed extensively.

 

[HumBurner]

This is old and relative to grinding. Thought I'd chime in anyways.

I do my depths with a flat file or square file. I do the same gauge from both sides when ROUNDING the gauge back to shape after FLATTENING the top a hair or three.

My hand is not steady and I often can leave a sliver of an edge on a depth gauge. Easily seen in direct light, not easily seen out of it.

So to ensure no raised slivers, I take a couple light, loose strokes back across (from the outside in, or the opposite of which direction I started.)

 

[thenne1713]

Don't use a bench grinder on the rakers. Doesn't account for different cutter length variants.

PART of reason for bench grinding is to get the cutters BACK to equal lengths after hand filing, then all depths should be set same.= smoothest/ lowest vibration