Discussion in 'Homeowner Helper Forum' started by Greg McD, Jul 8, 2018.
I don't see the message I typed, only the pictures.. so here it is.
About a month ago I noticed the leaves on this oak were turning yellow. I went to the local tree nursery and they told me the tree was lacking iron. I bought a bag of iron and have been dissolving the pellets in a sprinkling can and watering around the drip line. I've used quite a bit of iron and the tree now looks worse(pictures attached). Took a leaf into the nursery again and they said some kind of fungus so I treated the base of the tree with Bayer Advanced. I have been trying to get someone to come out and actually look at the tree, but had only one arborist return my call and he is coming out next week. Can this tree be saved? And is there anything else I can do before he gets here like water it heavily each day? We do sit on a sloped lot and it has been VERY hot, but we've had rain recently. I appreciate any help and advice that you have. Thanks!
Looks like iron chlorosis to me. A leaf disease has a different look to it. Tree will look like crap this year no matter what you do. Soil test needed, what is lacking and what is the soil ph (how acidic or alkaline). Iron chlorosis is usually a problem with the ph being too high, making the iron in the soil in a form that is unavailable to the tree. Simply adding iron to the soil helps a little but the iron is soon put into an unavailable form by the soil chemistry. Clay soils are worse as nutrients get tied up quickly in these soils.This tree will require ongoing treatments as long as you have the tree there. There isn't a fix and the tree will be fine from now on. I have found foliar sprays to be most beneficial but temporary (again the ongoing care).
I'm more than willing to bet that there is plenty of iron in the soil already. As @Oldmaple said, it is not available because of soil pH.
Did the nursery suggest adding iron to the soil???
Did they suggest adding Bayer Advanced to the soil??? There isn't a fungicide that you add to the soil that would change anything with the leaves.
If the nursery suggested either of those two, stop going there with questions!
Start with a soil test. You can do this yourself:
*Delaware County OSU Extension: https://delaware.osu.edu/program-areas/master-gardener-volunteers/soil-testing
*CLC Labs in Columbus
*I use Spectrum Analytic: http://www.spectrumanalytic.com/ - they will also do a tissue sample. The 2 together really tell the whole story - what is in the soil and what is (or isn't) making it into the tree.
Show us the base of the tree. There may also be problems with the rooting zone.
Who all have you called to come out? I'm a little too far north to justify a trip to Delaware for a smaller tree, but perhaps can help you find somebody down that way...
Thanks for the replies! http://www.davey.com/ is who is coming out. I tried many other companies in the area, but the ones who did return my call claim to mostly specialize in tree trimming and removal.
The soil here is terrible.. mostly clay. I have to use a pick-ax every time I want to plant anything and mix this junk with good dirt. I'll get a picture of the base and post it in a few minutes.
That is good, it is not planted too terribly deep.
Davey....really depends on the local office and/or the individual who comes out. They have some great arborists....and some other people on staff too. Hopefully you get the first. I think they are under more pressure than most to sell a little harder, so just be cognizant of that.
Let us know what they say.
I'll keep you posted. thanks!
Manganese can also be a major problem on oaks in central ohio.
Tubakia leaf spot LOVES to go after chlorotic oaks too. Lots of great aborists in central Ohio too. Try Ahlum, Russell, or Phoenix for starters.
Davey tree came out and said the problem is a combination of chlorosis and anthracnose from the wet spring. He's going to come back and do an iron injection plus fertilize, but he's not going to do it until the tree starts to go dormant in late October. Thanks for all the help on this!
No soil test?
What are they going to fertilize with? Is that what the soil needs???
Why don't you check for the stem girdling root (last photo) or plastic twine from the original transplant.
And I'm not convinced that's anthracnose either.
I was thinking anthracnose when I saw the pictures. Fertilizer is not going to anything to help it if it is. Take a few of the leaves to your local ag station and have them do a culture to confirm.
I say leaf scorch and tubakia but go Davey go!!!
Thanks for all the replies! I can't find the paperwork, but the expert from Davey says he's been treating trees like this in the area for over a decade due to our poor soil. But I'll call him and see what he's using just to be safe.
I'm not completely sure what you mean, but I planted this tree probably 8-9 years ago and it was maybe only 5 feet tall. I'm not an expert, but I dug a very big hole in comparison to the tree and replaced the bad soil with good. I also used my fingers to loosen the soil around the roots before planting. I didn't notice anything in or around the roots, but what can be done at this point if I did miss something?
What kind of weed killer do you use on your lawn?
I would recommend gently removing the liriope(?) and other stuff from around the base of the tree.
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