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Change 084 to 3/8 from 404

Jacob J.

Jacob J.

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Tom- those are all the parts you need to switch over.

Run the narrowest gauge of chain you can get away with, but keep in mind that .050 gauge bars get clogged with sawdust a lot more easily.
 
Jacob J.

Jacob J.

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The bar mounts are not the same. The 066 slot is 12.1 mm and the 084 is 14mm. The sprockets will fit if your 084 has a rim sprocket.
 
Gypo Logger

Gypo Logger

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The 50 thou. big mount bars are hard to find, as the racers like to use them and I don't think Stihl has anymore, but you could try Cannon, however, 58 or 63 is more than fine for milling. Try Z4Lunch, Steve has lots of bars, here's one I got from Steve or Marky Mark.
John
 
joelamb

joelamb

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For milling I've kept with 0.63 guage, it works well. I have had bad luck with 0.50 gauge. The back bottom edge of the teeth seem to wear much more and make the tooth lean back and change your original cutting angle, and the wear wasn't from lack of oil.
 
00juice

00juice

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084 sprockets

I have an 084 that currently has a .404 sprocket. I want to change it to .375. I was just wondering what is the range is sizes available for an 084. I have only seen 7 and 8 tooth sprockets. Are there any made that are larger? I will be using this saw for milling, and I believe I will have more than enough power for the size of trees i will be mostly milling (it's getting dean's stage 3T, So I figured increasing chainspeed with the largest possible sprocket would be best for increasing productivity. Any thoughts or suggestions.
 
Lakeside53

Lakeside53

Stihl Wrenching
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Dec 25, 2004
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From Stihl an 8 is all you are going to get. There might be an orgeon replacment, in 9.. maybe. For milling bigger wood you are going to be much happier with a 7 or 8 in any case. You need torque more than chain speed.

Be careful milling... you don't want your saw "on the edge" - "the edge" is where the piston melts and you get really mad.. Be very conservative with carb settings and fuel mix. IMO.. It needs to be DETUNED to about 80% (just a guestimate) power, not maxed out. Milling is a full continous power operation often for an entire tank - not what the saw was designed for.

A sharp chain is far more productive than incrementally more HP... My second pass though a hard 12 foot x 24 inch log is nearly half the speed of the first and by the third, I need to sharpen the chain as it's dull. Close to the edge + "dull" chain = dead or stressed saw.
 
Cut4fun

Cut4fun

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I wouldn't do it on a milling machine.
But if you decide to want to have fun cutting wood with it. 9T and 10T 3/8 readily available go for $21 a piece and can be bought easily. 11T and up, you will have to use a different vendor.
 
hautions11

hautions11

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I switched my 404 bars to 3/8 on my 084. I just changed noses. I did stay with 063 because I liked the hole Stihl uses in their 063 chain to carry more oil. I posted changing noses here somewhere. Let me find a link. I bought a 32" bar from Dean for $20 and the 3/8 nose is about $20 as well. PM Aggiewoodbutcher if you want a 42" Stihl bar. Let me find that link.
 
Cut4fun

Cut4fun

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Has anyone seen a 32" 3/8 050 for a 084? All i can find is 30" and 36" new. I have the 32" 105 DL chains already, so I was trying to keep them all the same.
 
Cut4fun

Cut4fun

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Diesel JD

Diesel JD

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You could talk with these guys. www.chainbars.com I don't know what they'd charge, might be just as much as a Cannon or Woodsman Pro. I believe you can get 3/8 3002 mount bars from Baileys in the Woodsman pro brand. Not sure if they have .050" or only .063"
 
aggiewoodbutchr

aggiewoodbutchr

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Jan 5, 2006
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From Stihl an 8 is all you are going to get. There might be an orgeon replacment, in 9.. maybe. For milling bigger wood you are going to be much happier with a 7 or 8 in any case. You need torque more than chain speed.

Be careful milling... you don't want your saw "on the edge" - "the edge" is where the piston melts and you get really mad.. Be very conservative with carb settings and fuel mix. IMO.. It needs to be DETUNED to about 80% (just a guestimate) power, not maxed out. Milling is a full continous power operation often for an entire tank - not what the saw was designed for.

A sharp chain is far more productive than incrementally more HP... My second pass though a hard 12 foot x 24 inch log is nearly half the speed of the first and by the third, I need to sharpen the chain as it's dull. Close to the edge + "dull" chain = dead or stressed saw.

Very good advice. I tried a 9T 3/8" sprocket on my saw and the results were not favorable to milling. I go with 8T for 3/8" and 7T for .404. Maximizing torque will reduce the tendency of the saw to bog down and stop when you hit an unexpected hard spot or push too hard.

Now, a 9T-3/8" sprocket with a 32" bar on a 084 worked over by Dean sure is fun for cross cutting and showing off.:chainsaw: :)

PS- if you really want a 9T sprocket, ask Dean for one. That's where I got mine.
 

PWB

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Jun 2, 2005
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I wouldn't do it on a milling machine.
But if you decide to want to have fun cutting wood with it. 9T and 10T 3/8 readily available go for $21 a piece and can be bought easily. 11T and up, you will have to use a different vendor.
Who's the vendor?

I haven't found any, but would like to try one. Running an Oregon Power match plus bar from a standard stihl that we milled out to fit (30" .050x.375) the 084. Using an 8 tooth, but I know the saw would handle a 9, maybe a 10. Only problem with going bigger might be that the heel of the bar might not be big enough for the bigger sprocket. Back to the milling machine????
 
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