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Cylinder after cleaning advice please!

Bob Hedgecutter

Bob Hedgecutter

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Acid didn't do anything? What was the dilution rate of your Bunnings acid?
If it feels smooth in there under your fingertips- no ridges or hollows that might catch a fingernail..... you should be good to go.
Don't worry about the pitting up the top where the piston never reaches.
 
singinwoodwackr

singinwoodwackr

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I use a dental pic tool to determine if a "scratch" is too deep. If it catches on a vertical score/scratch I replace the cylinder.
In pic 2 there is a questionable score but it is below compression line so may be ok.
Others will chime in ;)
Pic 1 has scoring that really looks questionable.
Have you tried some 320 or 220 wet/dry paper? I've always been able to get all the Al transfer by slowly/carefully using this.
Light pressure with just your fingers...
 
Spoon Carving With Tom

Spoon Carving With Tom

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I use a dental pic tool to determine if a "scratch" is too deep. If it catches on a vertical score/scratch I replace the cylinder.
In pic 2 there is a questionable score but it is below compression line so may be ok.
Others will chime in ;)
Pic 1 has scoring that really looks questionable.
Have you tried some 320 or 220 wet/dry paper? I've always been able to get all the Al transfer by slowly/carefully using this.
Light pressure with just your fingers...
So the only damage in pic one is those little dents, yeah like an idiot I did it with the edge of the dremel. The 5 or so thin lines are alumina transfer and the rest is dead smooth ! Yep :) used 240, 600, 1200 and 3000 wet dry paper, as well as a scourer and a small wire wheel on the dremel :)
 
Spoon Carving With Tom

Spoon Carving With Tom

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Acid didn't do anything? What was the dilution rate of your Bunnings acid?
If it feels smooth in there under your fingertips- no ridges or hollows that might catch a fingernail..... you should be good to go.
Don't worry about the pitting up the top where the piston never reaches.
Hey bob mate, totally smooth everywhere

Acid is 320g per Litre so I’m guessing that would be 32%? I didn’t get any white bubbling like was described by others. Left on for 60 - 120 seconds and scrubbed with a q tip!

C178438F-1EED-45D5-A2B3-3980B80E08B6.jpeg
EE19A0C0-17FB-47C9-8AF0-91AE8592E51C.jpeg
 
Bob Hedgecutter

Bob Hedgecutter

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Hey bob mate, totally smooth everywhere

Acid is 320g per Litre so I’m guessing that would be 32%? I didn’t get any white bubbling like was described by others. Left on for 60 - 120 seconds and scrubbed with a q tip!
Possibly too weak- have to go dig my big old gallon jug out and see if the label is still readable :lol:
Or maybe- there was no aluminium transfer to fizz up?
Did you sand first- or acid first?
 
singinwoodwackr

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Up by the transfers. Could just be Al or carbon that hasn't been cleaned off yet. Looks like incomplete cleaning with the Dremel wire wheel.
By the way, the super fine Dremel wire wheels are great for this sort of thing...won't score the cylinder lining.
Problem is if you slip and gouge with other than the wire.
 
Tom82

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If this is for a personal saw, it'll probably run fine. I have a 394 that's has massive scoring from a bearing failure or Cir clip and it runs great. Pulls a 37 inch bar easily.

If it's for someone else and or a work saw, I'd consider getting a new/used OEM cylinder.
 
singinwoodwackr

singinwoodwackr

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If this is for a personal saw, it'll probably run fine. I have a 394 that's has massive scoring from a bearing failure or Cir clip and it runs great. Pulls a 37 inch bar easily.

If it's for someone else and or a work saw, I'd consider getting a new/used OEM cylinder.
Good point!
Finish cleaning, throw a Meteor piston and ring(s) in there. Check compression and if within specs...run it.
 
Spoon Carving With Tom

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Thanks guys, I’m going to probably
Go OEM. It’s my fathers saw so kinda has sentemintal value and so would like to keep it original. It will cost a lot (more than its worth) but I guess once it’s done it should last a lifetime as I know what to look for (he doesn’t) to avoid further problems like this!
 
farmguywithasaw

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If it has sentimental value I would go new cylinder personally. Then there is the old story of grandpas axe. You get granddads axe you see the handle is in bad shape do you replace it or hang it on the wall. Say you replace the handle and use it and the head breaks. So you put a new head on it. is it still granddads axe?
 
Spoon Carving With Tom

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If it has sentimental value I would go new cylinder personally. Then there is the old story of grandpas axe. You get granddads axe you see the handle is in bad shape do you replace it or hang it on the wall. Say you replace the handle and use it and the head breaks. So you put a new head on it. is it still granddads axe?
Really interesting take and point!! Thanks mate :)
 
Bob Hedgecutter

Bob Hedgecutter

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. is it still granddads axe?
Essentially, an axe only has three parts, handle- head and wedge. Now if you replace all three- well I guess it aint Grandpa's axe no more.
But what is the number of parts of an MS260? Okay piston and cylinder are fairly important parts, but they are wear parts designed to be replaced- rest of the parts are still Dad's saw, so it is still a second generation family heirloom. :chainsaw: ;)
 
Huskybill

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take 500+ grit paper on your finger and cross hatch the lines. It should show if the lines are above the cylinders surface or below. Below your good to go.

On prelude oil her good.

I use the finger, 500+ grit paper on the openings on the ports to remove sharp edges, after porting, honing and even replacement new cylinders can have sharp edges on the ports. If you don’t debur these sharp edges the saws life will be shortened.
 
Huskybill

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Hmm..those are vertical score lines. If you can stop a fingernail...won't hold compression.
Just noticed the other oblique patches in the upper end...not good...
My .02
Above the exhaust port matters below the exhaust port hit it with 500+ paper cross hatch it.
 
ken morgan

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