Stihl ms311 too much compression.

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I haven't seen anything but red on the engines for many, many years.

So this guy doesn't use the compression release? Or is it just so worn out that it closes before he can get a good pull on it?
 
I had that problem after i replaced the jug and piston on a ms 310. I came to find out that i had over tightened the flywheel and caused it to seat further in on the crankshaft thus rubbing on the case. I replaced the flywheel problem solved.
 
Would go with maybe Lightning's bearing diagnosis though would definitely look at the starter spool/rope. This has been an issue on a 361, 251, and 250 for me I've recently rebuilt to various degrees, which were maintained poorly and abused badly by others. Assumed hydrolock, but doubtful. Has been as bad after taking plug out and clearing cylinder and putting plug back in. Everything else the same as you describe. The fix for me - at least for now - has been putting a drill and socket on the flywheel nut and turning the engine for a good while. In one case it was also a bad starter cord spool binding up. Most all three saws were impossible to pull til I spun them a bunch with the drill. Then they pulled fine. Many folks go to sheared flywheel keys, timing kickback, or hydrolock, when I think this kind of thing on these Stihls is more often as suggested, bad starter cords/spools or bearings binding up. My experience leans toward bearings, some lubrication from sustained turning the engine over freed the saw up in nearly every case (the 361 is still a bit problematic - may be the starter spool is the remaining sticky point on it).
 
I don't get the over tightening the flywheel part. The taper is only going so far. Unless it is cracked or worn, should not happen. Overtightening the flywheel on a saw usually ends up with a snapped crank end.
Something would have to be worn. Or the crank not fully seated in the bearings. That usually ends up not spinning well.
 

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