Destro31780
ArboristSite Lurker
I wanna start drilling trees to check for decay or hollows, what is a powerful enough cordless drill, and what diameter bit should I use so it wont overheat and snap?
Drilling Trees To Check For Decay
- Thread starter Destro31780
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If you are going to offer this as a service, I'd strongly suggest a resistograph - Rinntech and IML are the big names in that market.
Just one tree in your yard...you can learn a lot with any 18v drill and a 12" long 1/8" bit.
Another option would be using an increment corer. That would give you a physical record of your findings.
Having said that, a sounding mallet can go a long my way in avoiding the need to drill. But that takes a little time to "calibrate" you technique and ears.
Just one tree in your yard...you can learn a lot with any 18v drill and a 12" long 1/8" bit.
Another option would be using an increment corer. That would give you a physical record of your findings.
Having said that, a sounding mallet can go a long my way in avoiding the need to drill. But that takes a little time to "calibrate" you technique and ears.
Destro31780
ArboristSite Lurker
Start with the mallet...
Remember the drill is only useful if you hit the rot pocket.
You may want to drill some stumps so you can get a calibration of whats sound and what is decay. The resistograph does that. If you just wind up the drill and go, you may not feel the transition point, and thats the important factor. Youre trying to determine wall thickness, not.just whether there is decay.
I am often impatient when it comes to tree when they need to come down. A plunge cut cut vertically does it for me. I look for ants and other signs of a trees health. When there are plenty of warning signs I deem the tree unsafe to climb. Then other methods need to be used. I look at the saw dust coming out inch by inch. When I see no discloration it gives me much more confidence. Thanks
Remember a cylinder can have just as much strength as a rod. Read up on Shigo.
