Generator help

[Jasonrkba]

I'm replacing the capacitor and can't tell the leads apart from one another. The wires going to it are both white and the cap does not have any marks on it. Does it make a difference which wires go to which lead when I replace it?

Thanks. Jason.

 

[Conquistador3]

I remember those capacitors well. I probably have a few in the shop.
No difference in how the wires are installed.

 

[Gugi47]

You can't install it wrong. Not directional...

 

[Jasonrkba]

Great. Thank you.

 

[Jasonrkba]

Took the capacitor to work and had it tested by our electrician, it tested good. The generator is only putting out 1.5 volts at the plug. I have flashed it using the electric drill method and also using a switch and plug on the cap with no luck. What would you think my next step should be?

 

[Conquistador3]

If the generator has a voltage selection switch (it's usually 120/240V, but I have no idea what you are working on ), that's a good place to start. Try flipping it and see if volt output changes.

Failing that it could be either the generator itself or the inverter unit. The generator itself can be tested for continuity between each wire and ground (if it works properly there should be none) and for resistance between each and every wire terminal: I am only familiar on Japanese units and on them normal resistance is anything between 0.1 and 1.5 ohm according to model. Thank you Microsoft.
Remember that some high end units such as Honda EU3000's actually have a two-part generators (called "master" and "slave" and each needs to be tested separately.

The inverter is another matter completely and usually it's better left to who has the knowledge and tooling to check it out. I've wasted enough time on oscilloscopes at the Uni.

 

[Jasonrkba]

Thank you. It's a Generac model 01356-0 5000 watt generator with a 10 HP Techumpse.

Thanks Jason.

 

[Conquistador3]

I am not familiar with the specific model, but I've had a look at the wiring diagram I found online and it looks like a rather standard unit as far as wiring goes.

The first thing I'd do is to check if at constant engine speed voltage just stays down or if it fluctuates: in the latter case the cause is most likely the bridge rectifier, also known as regulator/rectifier. It's usually a cheapish part. Otherwise it's probably the alternator: they are usually big money but they can usually be rewound for a fraction of the price of a new unit.

 

[Jasonrkba]

Having some trouble identifying the voltage regulator. Here are a couple pictures.

 

[Conquistador3]

If your unit has a rectifier, you are most likely looking at something looking like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Coleman-Po...h=item3fab683ff4:g:xnsAAOSwwFJbmbEu:rk:9:pf:0
Follow the wiring coming out of the alternator itself (the one on top of picture #2 above) and you should find it.

 

[Jasonrkba]

Thank you for your help and patience conquistador. I followed the wires and they go to a plug on the back of the plastic cover that houses the plugs, cap etc.

 

[Conquistador3]

The rectifier and (presumably) the voltage regulator are all housed together with the alternator itself: the 6P plug only goes to the outlet panel.
Weird design, but I've seen a few.

Unless you can find a shop manual I would advise against further dismantling: just remove the alternator as a whole and drop it off an industrial electrical appliance repair shop to see if it's worth repairing. That's what I egenrally do: I don't know about rates in your area but it's usually not a bank breaker, although it maytake some time.
I am not doing this out of lazyness: some of those integrated alternators/rectifiers have very specific disassembly/reassembly procedures that need to be followed to the letter and since I have never put hand to it out of fear I cannot guide you through the specifics.