Granberg G106B

[Derik]

Hey folks, I used to sharpen chains with a harbor freight electric sharpener, with a grinding wheel. It did well on my (small) saw, but I could notice a difference in the longevity with the sharpness of the chain. I suspect that the chain cutters got a little to warm when sharpening. Anyhow, picked up a Granberg G106B a few months ago.

Sharpened a few chains with it, every time I sharpened it, the saw would cut in a curve to the left. Figured it was just me getting familiar with the jig. Gave it some time, and it still has the same effect. No idea what's going on with it, watched a few videos of guys using it, and I'm doing the same thing they are. I suspect that the little spring holding the horizontal depth stop isn't really doing it's job, or the jig is bent but it all looks pretty well straight to me.

I don't know if I received a bad one out of the bunch or not, I recently bought a 36" saw first of the year and finally used it about a week ago, the chain is to the point where it needs to be sharpened but I'm hesitant to use the jig because that would ruin a lot of the big pieces I have if it curves to the left again.

Anyone have thoughts on this that they would like to share?

 

[Cope1024]

I have no experience with the sharpener, but with any tool, if I have a problem I contact the dealer and/or manufacturer.

 

[Philbert]

The Granberg style jigs are pretty simple and reliable, once you have figured out how to mount them on the bar. They will help you get sharp and consistent angles, but no file guides are automatic. You need to monitor the results - kind of like a quality assurance (QA) step.

There are 4 things that commonly cause a chain to pull to one side or the other:
- different Right and Left cutter lengths;
- different Right and Left depth gauge heights;
- a worn bar groove;
- uneven bar rails.

Look at your finished cutters, Hold a Right and Left cutter back-to-back (image shows an extreme example). Are they the same length? Same angles? If not, compensate in how you set up your File-N-Joint, or how much file pressure your apply on each side.


Measure a number of Right and Left depth gauges with a depth gauge tool, feeler gauges, etc. Are there significant differences? Adjust accordingly.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/depth-gauge-tools-for-saw-chain.279374/

Check your bar rails and grooves for wear (might not be the chain):

More on the Granberg style file guides here:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-n-joint-revisited.193630/

Philbert

 

[csmillingnoob]

I just picked one up yesterday while visiting a larger city. Fooled around with it a bit this morning and had a little bit of trouble getting used to setting the horizontal depth brake. Gonna break out the calipers this evening to see what I have done to the chain I played with this morning.

 

[Philbert]

I just picked one up yesterday while visiting a larger city. Fooled around with it a bit this morning and had a little bit of trouble getting used to setting the horizontal depth brake. Gonna break out the calipers this evening to see what I have done to the chain I played with this morning.

Mount a good chain on your bar (does not have to be attached to the saw - can be clamped in a vise) and adjust the Granberg to match those angles. Might not be '30°/60°/0°'. Get a good feel for how it looks.

That's the same way it should look when you are finished sharpening your other chains. The round file will not be 'seated' in that position until you are done. And use a sharp file!

Philbert

 

[trains]

Set your bar up square with a level.
fit the Granberg, and put the level on its top whilst its set for the RHS, check level on the top, then set it up for the LHS and check level, have come across some that were previously abused and would cant more one way than the other affecting the tooth profile.

You can get new top pieces where the bushes wear if there is slop on the top shaft. And new tooth positioning stops.

I am assuming that the rakers have been properly set and profiled too.

Here are some instructions.
I use a stihl file guide to wipe the tooth a few times, then once the granberg is fitted, set the guide up so the file is the same height, and set up the tooth /chain stop so the file guide assy is straight up and down against the stop if that makes sence, so the file is in the very bottom of its swing arc.

Then you can adjust the tooth length stop to set your desired tooth length.

 

[csmillingnoob]

Mount a good chain on your bar (does not have to be attached to the saw - can be clamped in a vise) and adjust the Granberg to match those angles. Might not be '30°/60°/0°'. Get a good feel for how it looks.

That's the same way it should look when you are finished sharpening your other chains. The round file will not be 'seated' in that position until you are done. And use a sharp file!

Philbert

Brand new file. Not having a problem with the angles. Heck, I got those pretty good when I was free-handing. Live long DIYer carpentry work develops an eye for angles and pitches. Changed a 25 degree Carleton ripping chain to 20 degrees last night - mostly just to do it. 42' chain - lotta' experience gained. The Granberg worked well. Gonna reset the rakers tonight, but I'll use my Husqvarna "progressive" depth gauge.

My issue was: I thought the adjustable stop is supposed to keep you from cutting back more than a pre-set amount. It does, but it doesn't clearly let you know by feel or sound when you have cut back to the stop. I also fumbled adjusting it to do the least cutting needed to make the 5 degree change. Oh well, experience gained. I had hoped to do away with stroke counting and caliper measuring but that will be a little while. I still may be able to as my "feel" and eye develop more experience. I like the guide even though I am still in the fumbling/learning stage.

 

[trains]

The chain cutter length is set by the screw that also holds the top/middle part of the head to the body of the mount, that can be screwed in and out and once the square bar touches it, your done for length on that tooth.
The jig is a guide, so be gentle with it, its there to help you develop muscle memory, and guide the file, its easy to over work the guide, and get different angles side to side.
Again, go gently, let the file do the work, the guide to guide the file, and your hand to just power the process.
The chain stop at the back of the tooth that drops in once the tooth passes should be square to the tooth back, have seen some that have been filed on an angle, and give different tooth lengths due to the tooth seating differently left to right.
And keep an eye out for the chain rocking side to side when the file passes, those side guides need to hold the chain captive, yet allow it to move to the next tooth.

 

[Philbert]

There have been several variations of the Granberg style filing guides. I like pictures (older style Granberg on top; newer style on bottom)

On both models, the rounded screw heads identified by the yellow arrows rub against the center bar, and adjust how deeply the file will cut. This can be used to control cutter length and degree of 'hook' (combined with file height adjustment - top knob on both).

The red arrows point to the cutter positioning stop. Note that on some models this is adjustable (via wing nut on back), which provides additional control for cutter positioning and length.


All in all, a proven tool for getting consistent cutters. As @trains mentions, it is a guide, which still requires the user's participation to get sharp cutters.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

A few good links to descriptive posts by @CTYank:

Granberg File Guide Setup
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/granberg-file-guide-setup.237730/

Filing Depth Gauges with Granberg Guide
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/filing-depth-gauges-with-granberg-guide.238512/

Philbert