HELP! Can I Save The Bar?

[Brettl]

I got my 20" Stihl bar to close to my chaps. Could of been worse. Problem is, there's a bunch of fibers binding up the tip now. Dealer says by the time I replace the sprocket and the rivet kit I might as well buy a new bar. This bar is almost new and I'd like to find a little trick to save it.

Is there a chemical I could soak it in? Heat it enough to burn em off without destroying the temper of the bar? Etc. I know I'm grasping at straws. If I can't save it, who makes the best aftermarket bars for a firewood cutter that sees heavy use? Thanks everyone.

 

[farmer steve]

heat might work.a little at a time. just glad your here to ask the question.

 

[Brettl]

Thanks Steve. First time in 20 years using chaps. All they did was snag on stuff and puff out far enough to catch the chain and pull it in to my leg, twice. BUT, this tells me I've been cutting a long time and holding the saw way to close. It also tells me that if I can't make the chaps fit tight they'll be worse than nothing at all. Basically, I need to educate myself in wearing them properly.

Pretty sure I can heat it enough but don't know if I might damage the properties of the bar in doing it. Thought about dipping the tip in gas and lighting it. If the fibers absorb, I might be able to burn them up. More ideas anyone? Thanks

 

[Duane(Pa)]

I wouldn't heat it. You'll end up with a molten mess. Go to the dollar store and get a bottle of nail polish remover, immerse the bar in that over night and see if it doesn't dissolve the polyester fibers. Hopefully it will, and you'll only be missing a few bucks and some paint from the nose of the bar.

 

[Stormy]

Concentrated acids will "dissolve" Kevlar, so mite be the same with Prolar and Engtex as well. Dunno which you have in your chaps, but I'd try soaking it in some sulphuric acid.

 

[066blaster]

Try drano drain cleaner. Just guessing it may work.

 

[sawfun]

A new tip should be under $20 installed. Just a guess, but me thinks the bar might be a tad more. Use dental picks with the chemicals that have been recommended and you may save it.

 

[Philbert]

Glad you are OK - saving the bar will just be a bonus.

You did not ruin anything in the bar - just have threads wrapped around the bearings. I have had to disassemble nose sprockets to remove them. Just takes a little time.

Your sprocket looks like this inside, along with 2, very thin shims on each side (STIHL bars). You can drive the rivets out with a chain breaker, or drill the heads off and punch them out with a punch or nail set. ***Do this over an old towel!!! The bearings will want to run everywhere***

Clean the threads out; reassemble the sprocket on a thin (3X5) card; slide it into place (might have to pry the tip open slightly with a screwdriver); pull the card out; replace the rivets; peen them over with a ball-peen hammer. Your dealer can provide OEM rivets, or you can order them from a supplier like Bailey's, or look for something close enough at a local hardware store.

Holding the shims in place can be tricky. You can try tying them in place with a very fine thread (ironic, right?). Or clean the mating surfaces with acetone (to remove all traces of oil) and try a few drops of SuperGlue. Just have to get things close enough to line up the holes with an awl, etc.

Let us know.

Philbert

 

[Guido Salvage]

I hope you can save the bar, it is Friday night and we are thirsty...

As stated above, I would avoid heat. Think about what a synthetic fiber rope does when you heat the end.

 

[CR888]

The problem is solved now that Philbert's involved!

 

[wcorey]

If it's kevlar (pale yellow), it won't melt, will 'burn up' but at something like 900f.
Any acid solution concentrated enough to be effective would likely be equally effective on the bearings.
I'd dis-assemble, as already mentioned...

 

[Brettl]

Thank you all. Think I'll try Philberts approach. I wondered why my dealer mentioned replacing the sprocket and why that would be necessary. I'll give this a shot and see what happens.

IF I screw it up, who makes a good, strong, after-market bar?

 

[RedFir Down]

As far as a bar goes... The last few years I have noticed Oregon bars really going down hill so I wouldn't recommend that.
Total Supers bars have been holding up good for me, (Many on here also like them) judging by how 2 of my Total bars are waring so far im thinking they will last twice as long (if not more) as a comparable Oregon bar.
As far as weight difference between Oregon and Total they are within a few grams and the Total bars have a slightly wider belly which I like.
Here is a 20" Total with free shipping.
http://www.weedeaterman.com/product_p/wemt202fv4.htm

 

[Brettl]

Thanks RedFir. For $87 it should be good. I asked about aftermarket knowing there are often less expensive parts than Stihl, for instance, without the Stihl name that perform just as well. I'm just a firewood cutter so don't need anything fancy, just durable. I've heard conflicting opinions on the brands Baileys sells. To those of you who have used them, how do you think they compare to brands like Stihl?

 

[Philbert]

I wondered why my dealer mentioned replacing the sprocket and why that would be necessary.

Dealers are in business and have overhead. My dealer has a shop rate of $70/hour and has flat out told me that many repairs are not practical at that rate, compared to replacement prices. But he was willing to sell me parts, and offer some advice, if I was willing to do the work at 'my own rate'. For your dealer, it might cost you more in the end for him to fuss with the old sprocket than to slide in a new sprocket, or almost the same to sell you a new bar.

Same thing with guys in the tree business - it is not 'free' time if they have to pay an employee to work on a saw. For some of us, it is enjoyable or practical for us to spend the time on these things.

Philbert

P.S. - take pictures of your sprocket for us when you pull it out, if the fibers are wound in there really tight.

 

[RedFir Down]

The reason I recommended the Total bar is because you stated this in your first post...... "who makes the best aftermarket bars for a firewood cutter that sees heavy use?"

I have limited experience with the Baileys "cheap" woodland pro bars but one thing to consider is the cost PLUS shipping on 2 or 3 bars at different times (for when they wear out) as opposed to buying 1 Total bar.

Im just a firewood cutter as well but I can come to appreciate a QUALITY bar and spend a few more dollars.

Good luck

 

[Brettl]

Good advice, thanks RedFir.

 

[lambs]

I'd buy a Stihl bar myself, although if you do the surgery, I'd love to see how it goes.

I've had a nose sprocket bind up a few times on wood chips. I remove the bar, give the sprocket a shot of WD-40, and tap the sprocket teeth in each direction with a small ball peen hammer to work things loose. That takes a few minutes and a bit of patience. I cannot imagine what you are in for with the kevlar / poly blend from those chaps though. My method might be of little use.

Like the others said, I am glad you are here to tell us about it.

 

[rmh3481]

Maybe try a hacksaw blade. Get in there and clean it out. Once the fibers are cut they should fall out as you use it.

 

[Philbert]

. . . All they did was snag on stuff and puff out far enough to catch the chain and pull it in to my leg, twice. BUT, this tells me I've been cutting a long time and holding the saw way to close.

Since this was posted on other sites as well, I will add it to this thread: if you have pulled fibers from the protective bats, it is time to replace those chaps - they paid for themselves. Bring the old ones to a GTG for demos.

It also tells me that if I can't make the chaps fit tight they'll be worse than nothing at all.

I don't understand this part - 'nothing at all' would have meant that you were not posting about your bar, but your leg.

Philbert