Homelite Super EZ, need cylinder gasket?

[Okie]

I have a Super EZ auto, lot #6035, and can see a ser#105 (might not be all of the serial number) that has a bad cylinder gasket. Tightening the 4 stud nuts would not stop the leak.
My cylinder has A67874A stamped on the casting. When I look at a parts list it shows a 65018 that looks like this one on ebay 132252722112 but my gasket does not have the air box part of the gasket.

My existing bad cylinder gasket does not have the air box portion made onto my old gasket.

Can I just cut off the air box part of the gasket(the upper rectangular portion) and use just the cylinder gasket part or does anyone know of another correct part number for this cylinder gasket?

I already have the cylinder off the saw and just need the gasket to put it back together.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

According to my IPL that is the correct number for the cylinder gasket. I suppose if the other half is already sealed up you could possibly just use the bottom half with the 4 bolts. If you do that with the existing gasket use some Motoseal to stop the leaks, apply it to both surfaces to be sealed, wait a few minutes for the sealer to become tacky then slap it together.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I made me up a nice Homelite Super EZ from spare parts and although it looked pretty good it didn't cut too well. I tried experimenting with using a low profile bar and chain from a Poulan and although it oiled well it just wouldn't cut and that's with a new chain! Also the clutch made an awfully loud dinging noise like some of the Stihl saws I've had. Needless to say I returned that one to the shelf..I think I know where I can get an OE bar and chain for it, might give that a try..

 

[Lowhog]

Ran mine today in oak. has a 3/8 lp chain on it now. Perfect!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Mine must have had something wrong with the bar, it seemed to not cut straight, maybe one rail higher than the other or maybe bar not straight..

 

[Little Al]

OP Contact Joyce AKA"Chainsaw Lady" of this forum she can possibly help

 

[45-70Frank]

Mine must have had something wrong with the bar, it seemed to not cut straight, maybe one rail higher than the other or maybe bar not straight..

Not cutting straight usually means the chain was sharpened wrong?

 

[45-70Frank]

OK just picked up another SuperXLAO without the oiler button.
All my others have the same Tillotson carb, this one has the SDC-62. Are the carbs interchangeable between the Super XL's Red & Blue and XL-12's?
I know the internals are definitely different and need different rebuild kits.

 

[Okie]

I now see that someone has been into this one before and removed the air box part of the gasket was why I was confused again. (I get confused easily)
The old gasket was too hardened and broken up to use as a pattern or even try using a sealer on.

About the saw not cutting right. I've got into that before and sometimes find it's actually the bar, instead of the chain but usually if it's a chain that has good teeth and the drags are not too high it's has been sharpened using the wrong size file. (I've actually hand sharpened chains myself with the wrong size file and filing down the drags trying to make a nice looking chain cut and then discover later it was me numb nutting along with the wrong size file filing the chain wrong. (looking a sawdust instead of chips)

You might remove a bar and chain from one of your good saws that is cutting good and make a test run too see if it's a clutch slipping or the engine fuel mix little bit off.

Clutch dinging on a EZ. I seen EZ clutch awhile back that one of the centrifugal arms was cracked. I think Homelite used couple different clutch types, (I think I've seen two different types of Homelite clutches on the EZ's but not sure)

Thanks for the info.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Not cutting straight usually means the chain was sharpened wrong?

It hasn't been sharpened, brand new chain..

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I now see that someone has been into this one before and removed the air box part of the gasket was why I was confused again. (I get confused easily)
The old gasket was too hardened and broken up to use as a pattern or even try using a sealer on.

About the saw not cutting right. I've got into that before and sometimes find it's actually the bar, instead of the chain but usually if it's a chain that has good teeth and the drags are not too high it's has been sharpened using the wrong size file. (I've actually hand sharpened chains myself with the wrong size file and filing down the drags trying to make a nice looking chain cut and then discover later it was me numb nutting along with the wrong size file filing the chain wrong. (looking a sawdust instead of chips)

You might remove a bar and chain from one of your good saws that is cutting good and make a test run too see if it's a clutch slipping or the engine fuel mix little bit off.

Clutch dinging on a EZ. I seen EZ clutch awhile back that one of the centrifugal arms was cracked. I think Homelite used couple different clutch types, (I think I've seen two different types of Homelite clutches on the EZ's but not sure)

Thanks for the info.

I think I may have an extra clutch in my box of leftover parts, I'll try to dig it out. I can't remember if that one had a spur or rim sprocket on it, I kinda figured that I had mismatched the chain to the sprocket since those saws didn't come with a LP chain..I probably need to check the bearing also..

 

[Little Al]

They could be fitted with"S" type clutch "No springs" or a more conventional type clutch if in OK condition both types seem to work OK

 

[Okie]

Received the 65018 EZ's cylinder gasket, used it as a pattern and easily made up a couple of spare gaskets and installed and got a good crankcase seal except for the slight leak at the compression release valve leaking which seems normal with the EZ's, but still not a good idle. High rpms good.
Saw had more than one problem. Carb was re-kitted not long ago and new carb gasket.
H jet on carb has quite a affect on the low speed idle and if H jet out CCW least little bit (like less than 1/4 turn) further it runs real rich and idle slows also. The idle screw has to be all the way in to get any promise of a idle.

Will check the carb innards????

 

[Okie]

Received the 65018 EZ's cylinder gasket, used it as a pattern and easily made up a couple of spare gaskets and installed and got a good crankcase seal except for the slight leak at the compression release valve leaking which seems normal with the EZ's, but still not a good idle. High rpms good.
Saw had more than one problem. Carb was re-kitted not long ago and new carb gasket.
H jet on carb has quite a affect on the low speed idle and if H jet out CCW least little bit (like less than 1/4 turn) further it runs real rich and idle slows also. The idle screw has to be all the way in to get any promise of a idle.

Will check the carb innards????

Got em going good but!!!!!!!!!!

Had two more problems after I installed the cylinder gasket.
First the carb was bad, then the carb that I installed as a replacement was bad and both carbs had new kits.
I removed a carb from a good running EZ and got a good run and while testing the carb, whap, knock, klunk and seizure at medium throttle rpms.
Thought it had lost a rod. Found the Wico Magneto coil screws had vibrated loose and the coil and one screw had went into the flywheel and also sheared off some of the flywheel fins. Lost too many fins too try and remove additional fins for balance so I located and ordered a used wico flywheel. The coil somehow lived thru the chewing and chomping. Crank seems to be still ok and not bent. (flywheel runs true) and engine starts and runs ok when briefly testing.

 

[Okie]

Super EZ starting and running strong now.

Needed cylinder gasket, carb, and flywheel replaced after magneto came loose and broken off fins.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I converted mine to a .325 yesterday. I put it in a log and it did pretty good considering when I put the rim sprocket on it all we had was a 9 tooth. It really doesn't turn the chain that much faster but really seemed to throw out the chips. It doesn't seem to bog the little saw down much except when you really lean on it.

 

[Okie]

I converted mine to a .325 yesterday. I put it in a log and it did pretty good considering when I put the rim sprocket on it all we had was a 9 tooth. It really doesn't turn the chain that much faster but really seemed to throw out the chips. It doesn't seem to bog the little saw down much except when you really lean on it.

I've got some old Poulans, Craftsman, McCullochs and some smaller homelites top handles laying around that has bars on them. One of these days I need to see if any of those bars will mount correctly onto a EZ powerhead.

New or used bars cost more than I have in some of these old EZ power heads. (and then add a NEW chain, but a good running EZ with little TLC will outlast most of the smaller plastic junk saws sold now days.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The Poulan bars like come on a Wild Thing will pretty much fit the EZ and I think the oil holes line up but the big 3/8 sprocket doesn't match very well with the LP chain. The way I did it was to use a rim sprocket then you can change to about any chain. I only changed to the 325 because I found a like new bar in my junk and decided it might work well on my EZ. It does seem to do better than the LP on that saw.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I changed the clutch today on one of my EZ saws because it was making a big clanging sound but I think I have bigger problems..As I was changing it I noticed a lot of play in something related to the piston, rod or crank. When I put it back together with the second clutch the clanging was gone but still think the saw may have a loose rod bearing or wrist pin. Not a big deal because I have 2 or 3 more of these and they were given to me so I can always use this one for parts if it flies apart..