Husqvarna 340-345-350 Muffler fix... (jonsered 2141-2145-2150)

[SawGarage]

Hey Guys,


I've learned a TON from all the members here, and have had the pleasure of reading some GREAT posts, and 'meeting' GREAT people...

I wanted to take a few minutes on my Birthday (shameless plug :check: ) and give back a gift to others.... I hope this helps a few people!



anywho,



As MOST of you know, the 340/345/350 (And J-red equivalent) series saws have had issues with the muffler bolts backing out, destroying the threads, and at times, getting to the point where it would even melt a HOLE in the oil tank :bang:

This is the SECOND saw I've fixed, and have another (340) waiting to be repaired (debating on swapping on a 350 cyl and doing some port work!! )



Here's our PATIENT:

Runs GREAT, AWESOME compression (165psi) BUT, the muffler can NO LONGER be tightened..


1st symptom:

Ever notice this after running your saw?? :

maybe having to tighten the bolts up every TANK or so, or even MORE often??

IF you can still tighten them up, your lucky... ( suggest going directly to the LAST step RIGHT NOW!! Pics soon of that step, we ran outta time...)

IF you CAN NO LONGER tighten them up, the bolt holes probably look like this:

...

 

[SawGarage]

Seeing how the muffler is in GREAT shape:

The repair should be pretty quick, and low-cost

Survey says,

We gotta get that fixed...!!

Tools of the trade:



Drill, drill bit (the bit laying horizontal is a 5/32" to 'clean up' the threads 1st, before the required 13/64's), tap handle, re-threading kit (using: 2 heli-coils, coil install tool & tap)

AND, a rod that is BLUNT @ the end (no chamfer) (OLD 3/16" file ) to knock off the install tang






.

.

STEP 1:

square up, and drill the threads out (13/64's drill bit...)
NOTE: with most of the threads already stripped, there was VERY LITTLE material to be removed...



.

NOTICE THE UGLY MELTED CASE... UGH.


.

.

 

[SawGarage]

STEP 2:

Tap hole with included (and required) tap:

Sorry, didn't take a pic while tapping the hole

STEP 3:

Load the installation tool as so, with the tang DOWN:

.
STEP 4:


engage tang with installation tool (black metal part) and thread a few turns into the installation helper (Some oil on the threads inside the blue plastic install helper will aide in install) Then Install tap handle on the end of the installation tool. (sorry, no picture is available At this time...)


STEP 5:

center installation assembly over the bolt hole, and begin turning the insert through the helper and into the hole....NICE and SLOW AND SMOOTH

STEP 6:

Enjoy your NEW threaded hole!!

.


.

 

[SawGarage]

and the HANG test

the next step will be to drill the bolt heads with a small numbered drill bit and safety wire them together to allow an easily serviceable system, yet fail-safe..


hope to help!!


Jay

 

[Great Smokies]

Cool thread! A few people I know hove these Jred or Husky saw with the same issue. I've seen the same repair done at our local dealer but he used something called a Gardsert (sp?) instead. I actually think they rule the Helicoil et al because it's a solid barrel, threaded inside and out. It just seemed so much more solid in that position. Anyone seen em?

 

[SkippyKtm]

Nice job on the thread jay!

Here's a link for installing a support bracket for the muff:

[url]http://forlackofabetterplan.blogspot.com/2011/01/husqvarna-350-chainsaw-muffler-bolt.html[/URL]

There is a bracket that can be ordered from husky or jonsered but I can't find any more info on it. Anybody know?

 

[SawGarage]

Cool thread! A few people I know hove these Jred or Husky saw with the same issue. I've seen the same repair done at our local dealer but he used something called a Gardsert (sp?) instead. I actually think they rule the Helicoil et al because it's a solid barrel, threaded inside and out. It just seemed so much more solid in that position. Anyone seen em?

Yes I have, and YES, they do seem more structurally sound, BUT, with THIS method, your removing LESS base-material (that's thin to begin with). PLUS, with the safety lock-wire that will be added, they only have to be SNUGGED decently to get the muffler to seat. the Safety wire prevents the bolts from backing out.

Nice job on the thread jay!

Here's a link for installing a support bracket for the muff:

[url]http://forlackofabetterplan.blogspot.com/2011/01/husqvarna-350-chainsaw-muffler-bolt.html[/URL]

There is a bracket that can be ordered from husky or jonsered but I can't find any more info on it. Anybody know?

Thanks Chris!

yeah, I saw that 'blog',... I wanted to post up some clearer pics, and a better explanation.... plus, you can't find that 'blog' with a search on AS, and we all know this is the place to be for tech!

the bracket you speak of it actually PART of the latest model of mufflers. So it's a MUFFLER you have to order to get-r-done.

I talked with my dealer (Who no-longer sells plastic cased saws because of the muffler & melting issues :bang: ) and he said they came out with that muffler, although it SHOULD HAVE been a recall. Some of the LATE cylinders actually have a boss (some drilled/tapped some not...) for the 3rd mount... There's another thread on here somewhere that shows someone buying that muffler, and actually cutting it off?! :dunno:

J

 

[homeeey]

There is a bracket that can be ordered from husky or jonsered but I can't find any more info on it. Anybody know?[/QUOTE]



I just picked up a 350 used off of ebay expecting to drill and helicoil the muffler mounting screw holes. To my surprise it came with a muffler bracket. I looked through just about every year of Husky parts list for the 350 and could not find the bracket that was on mine (It isn't the top mounting bracket). After much googling I think I found where it came from. Looks like someone took the bracket from a 346XP and modified it by cutting off on of the mounting legs. The other leg attaches to screw which mounts the front spike. Works perfect and would be a really easy mod.

You can see the bracket in this picture. I'm not 100% positive this is the same bracket that is on mine, but it is the only similiar bracket I could find. And as far as I can tell both the 350 and 346XP use the same mufflier.

HUSQVARNA 346 XP® - XP® saws

 

[brandwing]

Part number?

Hi. I'm wondering where you got the helicoils and taps and everything needed for the rethreading job. I've got all the tools, just wondering where to find the parts. Thank you very much for putting the time into the step by step process.......the pictures are no longer available for some reason though. A book without pictures is rough too. :msp_smile:

 

[timmcat]

Forget the helicoils and go for the Gardcerts, your local Jred dealer will have them if they are any good at all. The Gardcert thinwall provides a much more secure attachement than any helicoil ever could. As for the single leg muffler brace its from a 351 or 2149, they switched to the two leg style when the 353/2152 came out, thinking it would cure husky's crap castings but it doesn't, as I have seen plenty of 2152's and 353's with the bolts loose or missing and the muffler being held in place by the brace. The muffler brace basicaly keeps the muffler from popping out and hitting the spinning chain when it falls off. Another good fix is to switch to 6mm studs like the 625 or 61 use and just drill out the muffler a bit.

 

[homeeey]

Hi. I'm wondering where you got the helicoils and taps and everything needed for the rethreading job. I've got all the tools, just wondering where to find the parts. Thank you very much for putting the time into the step by step process.......the pictures are no longer available for some reason though. A book without pictures is rough too. :msp_smile:

I got mine at a local Ace Hardware store. Not cheap, if I remember about $30.

Shouldn't need the pictures. Just drill out the hole, retap with the included tap, screw in helicoil insert. I used lockwashers and so far so good.