Husqvarna 350 carburetor adjusting

[goosemaster]

I'm working on a Husqvarna 350 chainsaw and I put a new carb on it. What is the proper setting for a chainsaw when you're cutting wood? The saw runs fine at idle, got quick acceleration response, and runs good on open throttle. But when you put it in the wood it wants to bog and run different. Which jet screw needs adjusting? Thanks in advance to anyone who replies.

 

[cuinrearview]

Which carb? Where did you get it? Where is the metering lever set?

Also, how is your chain? How about the compression on the saw?

 

[user 122190]

Yeah, yeah, what is the metering lever set? And what is the metering level? Do you know what the metering lever looks like, or where metering lever is, and did you eat my Halloween candy????

Which carb? Where did you get it? Where is the metering lever set?

Also, how is your chain? How about the compression on the saw?

 

[goosemaster]

You got to be friggin kidding me; I just want the saw to cut a piece of log.

 

[user 122190]

I understand, but you have to know all about the metering level, and is it set. The metering set has to be OEM, and set according to OEM set specifications specific for OEM.

Seriously, the high jet, open it up a little, counter clockwise, to see if you are fuel starved. It has been a while since I have worked on a 350, but I think it is the rearmost adjustment screw. Google it.

You got to be friggin kidding me; I just want the saw to cut a piece of log.

 

[grizz55chev]

The high screw is always the one closest to the air inlet, one turn out to start. Set it while in the cut.

 

[cuinrearview]

You got to be friggin kidding me; I just want the saw to cut a piece of log.

Says every homeowner who pulls his saw off the shelf after sitting for a year full of corn gas and el cheapo gas station mix oil.

There are a few things that could be the cause of your issue. We would love to help you, bit need a little more info than "my saw won't cut". You'll find most of the members here are very willing to help. I just had a 350 on my bench last night.

 

[user 122190]

Classic Timmy. Question his advise, pay the price.

Says every homeowner who pulls his saw off the shelf after sitting for a year full of corn gas and el cheapo gas station mix oil.

There are a few things that could be the cause of your issue. We would love to help you, bit need a little more info than "my saw won't cut". You'll find most of the members here are very willing to help. I just had a 350 on my bench last night.

 

[grizz55chev]

350 husky is in my humble opinion the best bargain on a great firewood saw, bar none. Parts are plentiful, cheap, and readily available. After you’ve done a few, there are a few shortcuts that you just don’t do anymore. Many, many threads are at your fingertip, read, read, read! The best upgrade is the 346 top end with a muffler mod , did one for a friend that grew up in the logging industry here in northern Cali, he says they should have done it this way from the factory and I agree completely! M sons an arborist with his own business and I built one and gave it to him for Christmas, says his groundman always grabs it first over about 5other newer saws. I can’t stress this enough, read, read, read, when you think you have it all down, read some more!

 

[Wood Doctor]

I imagine there are a thousand or more Husky 350's out there that bog down in the cut just like OP's saw does. It is amazing to me how many say to rebuild them with a 346XP top end. Another thousand or more have been thrown away because the muffler bolts come loose and then the case may burn out beyond repair so that the chain brake cannot even be replaced.

So, we keep fixing them, one way or the other. Why do we keep doing this?