ArboristSite.com Sponsors


I Want To Like My Stihl MS250 Again

jonshonda

jonshonda

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Dec 27, 2020
Messages
25
Location
Wisconsin
It warmed up enough to go outside.
 

Attachments

  • 20201229_124240.jpg
    20201229_124240.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 50
  • 20201229_124334.jpg
    20201229_124334.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 48
  • 20201229_124415.jpg
    20201229_124415.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 52
82F100SWB

82F100SWB

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Feb 12, 2009
Messages
428
Location
Dryden, ON, Canada
Yikes. That tooth is not going cut or clean well. This is not the first time I have seen people state that the 2 in 1 doesn't perform well on a chain that has some miles on it.



This is what your tooth profile shoud look like. I haven't touched the rakers yet this filing, that's my last step and I haven't gotten there yet. Note the hook/curve/gullet/whatever you want to call it that your chain no longer has.
I am also seeing a lip on the edge of your bar. That needs to be addressed with a flat file as well.
 
SteveSr

SteveSr

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Mar 3, 2003
Messages
2,015
Location
Raleigh, NC
Yikes. That tooth is not going cut or clean well. This is not the first time I have seen people state that the 2 in 1 doesn't perform well on a chain that has some miles on it.
+1 I bought the predecessor of the 2 in 1, the Pferd Chain Sharp. It worked passably but it had enough flex that if you bore down on it too much you would REALLY over file the depth gauges. I basically quit using it. The current 2 in 1 can also have issues with uneven file wear on the round file from not being rotated and between the two files.

I have never seen one get rid of th e side plate angle line the recent photos. Are you sure that it is being used on the correct intended chain and in the correct orientation. I have a friend that has one of these and I'll have to look at his chain the next time that I see him.

I am also seeing a lip on the edge of your bar. That needs to be addressed with a flat file as well.
This bar peening is caused by cutting with a dull/improperly sharpened chain. The chain links just hammer the bar instead of gliding down it like it is supposed to do. A flat file will work temporarily but you really should invest in a bar rail dressing file. Both Oregon and Stihl have one. This will also guarantee the rails are both flat and perpendicular to the bar.

Boy, You'll REALLY love this saw again if you convert it to 3/8" LP B&C and run a properly sharpened chain on it!
 
Gaudaost

Gaudaost

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Aug 12, 2019
Messages
2,226
Location
Australia
Just as I initially expected, that’s your issue, not the saw! Dump the 2 in 1 and take a couple hours to learn the basics and aim of what to achieve with a round file and you’ll never look back. Bucking Billy ray has some great content, he’s all over the place, but you can glean what you need to get a tooth cutting really nicely. Oh man, you’re going to love your saw once again after sorting that chain.
If you don’t want to learn free hand, you could invest in a grinder, someone else will chime in on them, I know nothing about them though.
 
Gaudaost

Gaudaost

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Aug 12, 2019
Messages
2,226
Location
Australia
You tell em ,Tom. Since you got to filing lately and have all those recently taken pics I felt it would be easier to have you post some.
Haha too funny, If you read back a few posts you’ll see my original message to the OP. I refuse to touch another jig or gadget now. Thanks for your help so far on my sharpening journey :)
 
jonshonda

jonshonda

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Dec 27, 2020
Messages
25
Location
Wisconsin
Alright, I had some free time so I swung by the dealership for a 26rs, an identical 26RM3, and some .325 bare files. I just had to find out for myself what I could do to correct this issue.

While the angles were correct, it was obvious something else was off. Before and after pics using the .325 stihl file. The most material was removed towards the bottom of the cutter.

Last pic is from using the .325 file. And of course a pic of my 50's Prentiss Bulldog No95
 

Attachments

  • 20201229_185128.jpg
    20201229_185128.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 47
  • 20201229_185020.jpg
    20201229_185020.jpg
    745.6 KB · Views: 45
  • 20201229_184913.jpg
    20201229_184913.jpg
    668.2 KB · Views: 42
  • 20201229_184736.jpg
    20201229_184736.jpg
    898.4 KB · Views: 45
  • 20201229_190248.jpg
    20201229_190248.jpg
    1.7 MB · Views: 52
SteveSr

SteveSr

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Mar 3, 2003
Messages
2,015
Location
Raleigh, NC
Alright, I had some free time so I swung by the dealership for a 26rs, an identical 26RM3, and some .325 bare files. I just had to find out for myself what I could do to correct this issue.
Contained in the packaging with your new chains you should find an instruction sheet with the specs and filing angles on it for that specific type of chain. Obviously you should save these for future reference.
 
pioneerguy600

pioneerguy600

Lost in Space
Staff member
Joined
Dec 23, 2007
Messages
40,602
Location
N.S. Canada
Alright, I had some free time so I swung by the dealership for a 26rs, an identical 26RM3, and some .325 bare files. I just had to find out for myself what I could do to correct this issue.

While the angles were correct, it was obvious something else was off. Before and after pics using the .325 stihl file. The most material was removed towards the bottom of the cutter.

Last pic is from using the .325 file. And of course a pic of my 50's Prentiss Bulldog No95
Much improved sir. I like your vice and the tape helps a good bit, the chipper chain is a fair cutting type but the chisel is where it is at in clean wood. The hook under the top plate along with the proper set of the depth gauge will take much strain out of cutting with a chainsaw. The chain will self feed, no pushing necessary and the engine will pull with less drag on it.
 
Top