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Log Splitter Build

kevin j

kevin j

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1. The power beyond valve will have a line to tank, and a line to the second valve. The second valve will have one line to tank.
2. What do you mean by check in return? No checks needed, unless you mean to prevent back drain of filters when changing elements. I would not put any checks in. More parts to fail. And they do...
3. Sae and JIC and ORFS only for me. NPT sucks. Have to be taped or doped, and then they leak. Never point the right direction, too loose, then one more turn can crack housings and ports. NPSM with swivels are not so bad, but the port still has to have NPT. Of you start right out with oring ports, you can avoid all the NPT as much as possible. Filters, cylinders, pumps etc in the consumer world are usually NPT. Industrial world, very few NPT left.
 
sean donato

sean donato

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My total system capacity is under 10 gallons on my set up, even working it through the nasty knotted up stuff on a 100* day I've never had issues with heat. Even on equipment with water to hydro coolers temps in the 180-210*f range are perfectly acceptable and wont damage the equipment. And I mean to tell you you wont be able to touch a fitting. The free boiling point of most hydro fluids is around 250*f. And even at that temp your orings and seals will suffer more then anything. Not saying a cooler or heat sink of some sort isnt a bad idea, but ymir highly doubt your getting those temps with a splitter.
 
JakefromCharlotte

JakefromCharlotte

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1. The power beyond valve will have a line to tank, and a line to the second valve. The second valve will have one line to tank.
2. What do you mean by check in return? No checks needed, unless you mean to prevent back drain of filters when changing elements. I would not put any checks in. More parts to fail. And they do...
3. Sae and JIC and ORFS only for me. NPT sucks. Have to be taped or doped, and then they leak. Never point the right direction, too loose, then one more turn can crack housings and ports. NPSM with swivels are not so bad, but the port still has to have NPT. Of you start right out with oring ports, you can avoid all the NPT as much as possible. Filters, cylinders, pumps etc in the consumer world are usually NPT. Industrial world, very few NPT left.

Ok. So there will be two return lines to the tank. Is it ok to combine the two in a "T" before the filter? I guess I was wondering if check valve would be needed on one of the return lines to prevent back pressure in a valve body when the other body is engaged. But it sounds like the return line will flow to the tank since its the path of least resistance.

I hear you on the NPT. I ordered good weldable bungs for the tank from McMaster hoping to have less issues, but the 2" that goes to the pump is still leaking. Sounds like the SAE is the way to go.
 
kevin j

kevin j

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Ok. So there will be two return lines to the tank. Is it ok to combine the two in a "T" before the filter? I guess I was wondering if check valve would be needed on one of the return lines to prevent back pressure in a valve body when the other body is engaged. But it sounds like the return line will flow to the tank since its the path of least resistance.

I hear you on the NPT. I ordered good weldable bungs for the tank from McMaster hoping to have less issues, but the 2" that goes to the pump is still leaking. Sounds like the SAE is the way to go.

you can tie them together. Typically it’s done if they’re close together the tank line of the power beyond valve tees into the tank line of the second valve close by and then they go back to the filter into the tank. There isn’t much pressure in the tank line other than maybe 20-50 psi back pressure. The power beyond line does see full pressure when the second valve is loaded and the first valve is in neutral.
 
sean donato

sean donato

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Ok. So there will be two return lines to the tank. Is it ok to combine the two in a "T" before the filter? I guess I was wondering if check valve would be needed on one of the return lines to prevent back pressure in a valve body when the other body is engaged. But it sounds like the return line will flow to the tank since its the path of least resistance.

I hear you on the NPT. I ordered good weldable bungs for the tank from McMaster hoping to have less issues, but the 2" that goes to the pump is still leaking. Sounds like the SAE is the way to go.
No check valves needed on the return. I have my log lift valve power beyond to the cylinder. Both returns go into a Y fitting I made up. Then it returns to the filter.
 

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JakefromCharlotte

JakefromCharlotte

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Made a little progress on the splitter last weekend. Mostly turning parts for the pump mount. I also made and adapter plate to mount the engine to the milling machine to cut the keyway.

The valve saga continues.... apparently log splitters are really popular and most places are sold out of the RD style of Prince valves.





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JakefromCharlotte

JakefromCharlotte

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Pulled the trigger on some valves last weekend. I ended up buying them from Northern Tool to avoid the shipping fees. PLUS....what I really wanted was out of stock at Surplus Center.
Went with the RD52... for the lift and wedge, then using the power beyond, feeding the LS 3000 valve for the main cylinder. I hope the power beyond doesn't rob too much flow before it gets to the LS valve.
Also finish up the pump adapter and cut the keyway for the motor shaft.


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kevin j

kevin j

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You’ll be good Power beyond will not rob any flow. That’s one point of that design. When it’s in neutral the full input flow goes out the power beyond port onto the second valve. It’s only when you’re operating a function in that section that The second valve is affected.
What a wonderful shop machinery assortment
 
dave_dj1

dave_dj1

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Don't g
Assembled the major components in an attempt to get the balance right for axel placement. My preference would be to mount the axle between the tank and the lift so it doesn't get too wide, but I don't think I'm that lucky. Getting closer!

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Don't get too hung up on balance, you want to be able to work comfortably on one side. A little tongue weight is good anyway.
 
JakefromCharlotte

JakefromCharlotte

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It's coming along. I figured I needed to get the major components finished and mounted so I could get some idea about the balance of this thing. Last up were the valves.
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I used a hanging scale and the forklift to pick it up and slowly moved a piece of angle iron towards the rear. I will have about 190lbs on the tongue. Also filled the tank for the first time. No leaks and I couldn't be happier.
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Once I had the weights, I quickly mocked up some axle braces in Fusion 360. I'm using some scrap 5" .25" wall square tubing. I can't run a continuous axle because of the wedge lift cylinder under the frame. I picked up this moblie home axle a while back. It has new tires which is nice. I will weld the "L Braces" to the frame, cut the old axle, weld that to a .5" plate, them bolt the axle and plate to the L Brace.

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Ted Jenkins

Ted Jenkins

Firewood by TJ
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Major problem will be how far will it be towed as you will not be able to tow it far on mobile home axles. The tires require about 60 PSI minimum to stay inflated. The tires do not make a smooth ride. I travel rough roads roads so suspension is a must. Once you have completed your project I hope that you have major amounts of wood to process. Thanks
 
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