Mag Rot - How Far Is Too Far?

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Knowing my luck I will probably be the one to buy that beauty on Ebay.. It is hard enough to weed through the shyt there as is. Kinda like putting lipstick on a hog...lol...... Really enjoy the thread as I have did simular before and as mention before JB works good for a filler, but not so much on cracks....

Thanks for the kind words about the thread I don’t quite understand what you’re saying, are you saying my saw is crap and it will just be one more to add to the crap saws on eBay? That’s a little mean if so, I think it will be a great little saw once complete! Either way it won’t be on eBay! I’m probably going to keep it and add to the collection. If I do sell it, I’m a very honest guy, I don’t care for the Bs that I have experienced, and would never do that to anyone

 

[pioneerguy600]

It`s not your work or saw Tom but these kind of threads are copied by unscrupulous kinds and are often offered up online for disposal afterward. We have seen this far too often after we put up how to threads on here and other sites where copy cats picked up enough info to start turning out work that they collected money for but would not stand behind the product if there was a problem down the road, many turned into rip off artists.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

It`s not your work or saw Tom but these kind of threads are copied by unscrupulous kinds and are often offered up online for disposal afterward. We have seen this far too often after we put up how to threads on here and other sites where copy cats picked up enough info to start turning out work that they collected money for but would not stand behind the product if there was a problem down the road, many turned into rip off artists.

How interesting, sadly it doesn’t surprise me. Even in the short 6 months or so that I have been interested in saw rebuilding, I have met people who tell me their saw is perfect, excellent condition and has no problems to see scored pistons, mag rot throughout or hiding other issues that I have found that I know they know of, but hope I miss it... It’s a sad world we live in - I now understand the lengths some people go to to either make money at the expense of others, or lie to their faces to do so.

 

[Whiskers]

Which type of paints are fuel resistant? Nice thread on bringing back an otherwise throw away saw. I guess you’ll find out if the vibes crack the fixes and if the paint holds up to fuel. If you’ve got the time and are learning a few things along the way I guess a saw is never too far gone!

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Which type of paints are fuel resistant? Nice thread on bringing back an otherwise throw away saw. I guess you’ll find out if the vibes crack the fixes and if the paint holds up to fuel. If you’ve got the time and are learning a few things along the way I guess a saw is never too far gone!

Thank you and very well said! Yes, it’s been fun! Regarding the paint, from what I have read online, the ford grey enamel by “Rust-oleum” after a week of curing is fuel and oil resistant. That said, all it says on the can is “ideal for tractors, farm equipment, lawn mowers and more” so I guess it should be a fairly resilient finish either way. But I’m no arborist or lumberjack so I don’t think I’ll ever put enough hours to truly test the strength of the finish! I’d love someone to use one of my rebuilds professional to test how well I have done, but I don’t know anyone in the profession.

 

[jltrent]

Thanks for the kind words about the thread I don’t quite understand what you’re saying, are you saying my saw is crap and it will just be one more to add to the crap saws on eBay? That’s a little mean if so, I think it will be a great little saw once complete! Either way it won’t be on eBay! I’m probably going to keep it and add to the collection. If I do sell it, I’m a very honest guy, I don’t care for the Bs that I have experienced, and would never do that to anyone

Not putting your work down as I love it....from my experience of JB weld it will do great on the bar cover..I have made some look really good using JB weld in places and the same paint as you, but it was always as a filler. Keep the good work up and I am looking forward to seeing the finished saw. It is great to be able to restore these older saws IMO they are better than the newer saws. Not many people have your talent and patients....they are few and far between..

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Not putting your work down as I love it....from my experience of JB weld it will do great on the bar cover..I have made some look really good using JB weld in places and the same paint as you, but it was always as a filler. Keep the good work up and I am looking forward to seeing the finished saw. It is great to be able to restore these older saws IMO they are better than the newer saws. Not many people have your talent and patients....they are few and far between..

That’s very kind of you to say so, I really appreciate that! I’m trying to figure out a way to test the strength of the AV rebuild I’ve done, but in a realistic way before I put it all back together. I don’t want to go bashing it or anything, but I’d like to figure out a way of testing it now rather than have it fail later.if it fails now I will Buy a bloody 400 dollar welder and weld the pain in the butt haha

 

[Sepia]

That’s very kind of you to say so, I really appreciate that! I’m trying to figure out a way to test the strength of the AV rebuild I’ve done, but in a realistic way before I put it all back together. I don’t want to go bashing it or anything, but I’d like to figure out a way of testing it now rather than have it fail later.if it fails now I will Buy a bloody 400 dollar welder and weld the pain in the butt haha

Mount the tank and a bar, then clamp the bar in a vise and wiggle the tank handle around like you have the bar stuck in a tree. You should be able to determine how strong your fix is that way.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Mount the tank and a bar, then clamp the bar in a vise and wiggle the tank handle around like you have the bar stuck in a tree. You should be able to determine how strong your fix is that way.

Perfect thanks, great idea!

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I went to a paint specialist today. The ford tractor gray is good, but it’s not perfect and it’s cheaper for me to have the paint matched perfectly from a brand new saw that hasn’t been sun damaged, rather than buying the tractor grey.

Any way long story short, called my local dealer asking if I could borrow a cover off a saw for the above (they gave me a 500i cover because they know how I love that saw hahah - closest I’ll get to ever owning one!!), left a deposit and spent the next hour at the paint shop where he mixed up what I’d consider as close to perfect as one can ever get. If you local shop uses the “Fillclean system” you can use the colour code on the label below this can to have it mixed up. It’s quite amazing. Not to mention the ford grey costs me 36 Aussi dollars plus postage and this custom mix which is what I’d consider perfect (he was so scrupulous to the colour match, a real master at the craft) costing me 28 Aussi dollars for one full spray can and because he made up too much, Gave me the rest which will be easily another spray cans worth in a pot I can use with a paint brush or have them put it into another spray can.

 

[Jeff Lary]

good work Tom.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

good work Tom.

thanks Jeff

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Hmm I had a feel of the case that I have painted with tractor Grey. After 2 days I can still indent the surface with my nail with pressure. I’ll give it a week and then reassess.

had a play with the new paint (going to do a fuel test experiment) the stuff he made up dries soooo fast, hardly any work time at all. It is 30 celcius, but the tractor gray will stay workable for a good 2-3 mins where as this is only workable For 20 - 30 seconds max... I guess I should stick to using the spray can for an even coat in that case... or just do painting when it’s cooler, easier said than done here in Australia

 

[Whiskers]

I wish you were closer, I’ve got a bunch of saws I’d pawn off on you to experiment with. Mostly stuff from my early cad acquisition days that I have no interest in working on now that I have a whole stable of top shelf runners.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I wish you were closer, I’ve got a bunch of saws I’d pawn off on you to experiment with. Mostly stuff from my early cad acquisition days that I have no interest in working on now that I have a whole stable of top shelf runners.

Ah that’s awesome, it would be fantastic, I appreciate you thinking of me!

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

None of this would be possible without the advice from mentor and now proud to call friend @trains. People are congratulating my patients and perseverance, but without @trains, his belief in me and his guidance and advice none of this would be possible. He has taught me the importance of slowing down, thinking, thinking again and then rethinking on how to get something to work best. He was the one who advised I rebuild the AV mount, what to use and how best to do it, he also advised Jb weld on the pitting inside. I’m pleased and honoured to be being shaped by him both here and life in general. thank you!

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Well while I’m at it I’m doing the test to see how both the farmer grey and my colour match stihl paint hold up to fuel and oil.

sanded the aluminum sheet, cleaned it with acetone (must have missed a little patch middle right but that’s ok) went over with primer and then a few coats of paint. Stihl colour match on the left and farmer grey on the right.

I’ll use the top 4 squares (two each) as control

next 4 squares left to right, will have will have one drop of 2t and bar oil applied once per week

next 4 squares will be applied every other day

last 4 squares will have it applied daily.

I’ll report results after a month.

Initial impressions besides the difference in colour is farmer grey has more gloss and is a thicker formula covering the surface slightly better for the spray time, but both do apply nicely with a spray can.

I will give these paints 7 days to fully cure before I start the test (1st March is when it will commence)

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

2 stroke fuel mix in one and bar oil in another all ready for the test in 7 days

 

[svk]

Well while I’m at it I’m doing the test to see how both the farmer grey and my colour match stihl paint hold up to fuel and oil.

sanded the aluminum sheet, cleaned it with acetone (must have missed a little patch middle right but that’s ok) went over with primer and then a few coats of paint. Stihl colour match on the left and farmer grey on the right.

I’ll use the top 4 squares (two each) as control

next 4 squares left to right, will have will have one drop of 2t and bar oil applied once per week

next 4 squares will be applied every other day

last 4 squares will have it applied daily.

I’ll report results after a month.

Initial impressions besides the difference in colour is farmer grey has more gloss. Both apply nicely with a spray can

I will give these paints 7 days to fully cure before I start the test (1st March is when it will commence)

View attachment 800528
View attachment 800529

Are you applying fuel or just oil?

 

[Whiskers]

In my experience you’ll know right away if a paint isn’t resistant to fuel. It will gum up and or wash off.