peter92
Addicted to ArboristSite
Hi Mark , what black pull starter cover fits the 850 as the one on mine doesnt fit , other models i mean
also is there any thing missing between the black cover and the yellow housing
Peter
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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also is there any thing missing between the black cover and the yellow housing
Peter
Peter - I believe the starter on that saw came from a CPL70 or one of the other few models that had the three piece starter screen. The starter from any saw with the one piece screen (99% of all LH start 10 Series) will fit correctly.
I will take a look at some saws tonight to try and confirm that is the case, but if you look at the photo below you will see the different arrangement on saws with the three piece screen.
Mark
I will take a look at some saws tonight to try and confirm that is the case, but if you look at the photo below you will see the different arrangement on saws with the three piece screen.
Mark
peter92
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks Mark , this housing on mine was done up and couldnt pull the cord to turn it over , looks like mine is not flush with the housing like yours
It should sit flush and pull over ,, CORRECT
You wouldnt have a spare starter and the housing you want to sell would you , im willing to pay postage as i think the bolt holes on mine might be stuffed , had wood screws in
BigBlue
ArboristSite Operative
You sure someone didn't just take it apart to try to fix a spring or replace a cord and didn't get it together correctly? They can be a bit finicky. If you take it off you should be able to assess what is wrong. It should pull over freely when off and retract correctly. If the engine crank can be turned over then the recoil should work with it. But if the spring is messed up obviously the recoil won't pull even when off the machine.
Rob
The starter and flywheel cover from any LH start 10 Series will fit, you may need to add a hole or two as the 82 cc models had an extra screw in the bottom of the flywheel housing. I made up some simple templates to help me locate the extra holes.
Mark
Mark
peter92
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks Rob , it all works when taken off ,
ill see how it looks today and take some pics
Peter
peter92
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ill check it out and get back to you Mark , now its day light
Ill get some pics and we can go from there , hopefully we can work this out
Peter
Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
Pulled that screen and it was dirty but a bigger issue may be the check valve itself. The fiber/rubber disk has delaminated so on a steady pull of fuel perhaps it tends to work its way into the high jet. Gotta nake a better disk
What's the best way to re install those Welch plugs? And also a friend of mine said you should seal them with clear nail polish. Is this true?
I lay the plugs in, convex side up, making sure they are in flat in the pocket. I drive them flush with the well-centred and plumb head of a roofing nail. I use a nail that has a bigger diameter face than the plug. It will help from driving them beyond flush. You do not want to dimple them in. It would make future removal (picking or drilling) riskier if you drive too far through. Make sure you have the carb well supported and give them a good tap on the first strike so they grab and hold.
I've heard of guys "sealing" with polish. If they are leaking after installation there is something wrong/defective. Polishes are not all created equally. I have seen some turn to jelly in short order in different fuels. That sort of thing could foul up a low or high speed circuit in a hurry. Just saying.
I use a set of transfer punches, select one that nearly matches the diameter of the welch plug and lay the flat end of the punch on the plug and give it a tap. No sealer is needed if the welch plug is the correct size and properly installed. Any large, flat face punch will work but they work best when the diameter of the punch is just slightly smaller than the diameter of the welch plug.
Spikes for which model(s)? customchainsawparts almost always has some for both the large frame saws and for the 10 Series $12 each + shipping. The same spikes fit the PM 10 Series and the 600 Series McCulloch saws.
Mark
Spikes for which model(s)? customchainsawparts almost always has some for both the large frame saws and for the 10 Series $12 each + shipping. The same spikes fit the PM 10 Series and the 600 Series McCulloch saws.
Mark
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
According to Acresinternet, the BP-1 takes 9/16" chain, is that accurate?
I always thought the BP-1 used 1/2" chain...
The reason I ask,
A friend just got one w/o a bar or chain, and wants the right size chain for it.
Thanks!
I always thought the BP-1 used 1/2" chain...
The reason I ask,
A friend just got one w/o a bar or chain, and wants the right size chain for it.
Thanks!
The OEM chain for the BP-1 was 1/2" pitch but used a unique driver and sprocket. I don't have any photos of the chain right now so you'll have to take my word for it.
Good news is the output shaft is 19/32" like all the other late model gear drive saws so the same spur sprockets fit the BP-1. customchainsawparts has .404 available for around $17 + shipping, 1/2" for $12 if I recall. There were a few rim type sprockets made to fit the gear drive saws as well but those can be hard to find.
A few guys made some adapters to put a spline on the output shaft which allows them to run any chain they want.
OEM self sharpening chain:
There is a keyway in the output shaft but it is not visible in the photo below.
Mark
Good news is the output shaft is 19/32" like all the other late model gear drive saws so the same spur sprockets fit the BP-1. customchainsawparts has .404 available for around $17 + shipping, 1/2" for $12 if I recall. There were a few rim type sprockets made to fit the gear drive saws as well but those can be hard to find.
A few guys made some adapters to put a spline on the output shaft which allows them to run any chain they want.
OEM self sharpening chain:
There is a keyway in the output shaft but it is not visible in the photo below.
Mark
happysaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thank you!
Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
Got the carb kit for the CP70. No main check disk in kit and none available. Anyone have tips on making such?
Near as I can measure it is 0.006" thick and 0.220" diameter. Likely old pump material would work but how to cut it?
Hmmmmm
Near as I can measure it is 0.006" thick and 0.220" diameter. Likely old pump material would work but how to cut it?
Hmmmmm
I keep looking for a pull start like that with the roller in it. Those things are hard to find.
Brian
Walter - try a leather punch (http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1292877&cid=CAPLA:B:Shopping_-_Catch_All&utm_term=4582283428594338&bingpla=bingpla_991164&utm_campaign=Shopping - Catch All&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&k_clickid=2a8893ab-c41b-456e-9e0b-f01fe4f7597c&utm_content=Catch All)
Here is original BP-1 chain, 1/2" pitch but small drivers.
Compare with a conventional 1/2" pitch chain.
Mark
Here is original BP-1 chain, 1/2" pitch but small drivers.
Compare with a conventional 1/2" pitch chain.
Mark
PM700 and PM610. Now I see the holes are there, what do I need to install spikes? Drill and tap? Bolt and nut? They look so bare without them. They look like a beast with a nice pair of spikes.
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