McCulloch Chain Saws

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Simply use fed ex, ups or usps. It is all charged by weight and destination. Box up the saw with the bar removed, gas drained and oil emptied. Double bag the saw in good plastic bags to keep odor in and any oil drippage. Wrap the bar in cardboard to prevent it from moving in the box and tape to the side of the box if possible. Use a box large enough to allow for packing material to surround the saw and prevent shipping damage. Once the box is sealed with enough tape to insure closure, you may call ups for a pick-up or take to the post office for shipping. You prepay the shipping and back charge the buyer. You can find shipping rates online to most places through the post office and ups or fed ex. Just weight the entire box after it is sealed for a final weight. keep me posted concerning the pm700
What would you like to know on that pm700?
 
At the moment it looks like my bet about walking wrist pins wouldn't have been a good one. There is still time. I shot an email to Terry Ives (a kart man). Hopefully he will respond next week.

Just got a text that another load of big wood is coming in next week. Brian and I are going to have to teach the young ones that they can cut this stuff too. They may not have MACs but I know of at least one with a 661 and one with a 3120; either of which should be more than adequate. Maybe Brian will have his SP125C back together by then. If he does and is able to cut I will try to get some pictures and figure out how to download videos.

Ron
 
Here's Terry Ives' response: "Do not know the reason for the wrist pin walking, sounds like not enough interference fit with the rod."

Terry says he has oversized pins. Pistons only up to .060 over. I'm already at .050. Brian will have to see if the gouges are too deep.

Ron
 
Here's Terry Ives' response: "Do not know the reason for the wrist pin walking, sounds like not enough interference fit with the rod."

Terry says he has oversized pins. Pistons only up to .060 over. I'm already at .050. Brian will have to see if the gouges are too deep.

Ron
Already at .050, geez! How much can you take out before it's to thin? Can you put a new jug in?
Edit. Can it be re-sleeved is what I meant?
 
It will go .060 but not any further.
The 10-10S is a great saw. I have one and it cannot be beat in that class saw. I have a 20" bar on it and have put a 24" on occasion with out a problem.

Brian

The 10-10S my dad bought in the early 80's cut a tremendous amount of wood in its life. There were years we were losing 40-60 elm trees every other year in our big groves. It had a 20" bar on most of its life but now that it is mine I've used it a few times with a 24" bar too and it handles it without issue. Impresses everyone that sees it run. It is what got me into looking for other Macs like the 700, other 10-10s, and the 800s.

Rob
 
You get a PM800 and you will fall in love with it. I have one that I just love. Just a great saw. Another saw that so many don't care for but I think it's a great saw is my PM610. That thing is a tractor. I have a 24" bar on it and I keep it sunk all the way and it just keeps on going. That thing is all torque. They are cheap and easy to find. I see them all the time in almost mint condition. The 800s are getting hard to find and parts are scarce. Another saw I have that is very impressive is my little PM6. Very light, very easy to start and use.

Brian
 
I'm lucky to have already scored a PM800, albeit an unhealthy one. At this point I just need to acquire a few parts to allow me to get my ailing PM800 back together.

I do still see the "Little Red Barn" piston in 'B' size available. I thought someone else mentioned a NOS one by "Custom Chainsaw Parts" but I can't find that now. Perhaps they only had one and it is gone. If anyone knows of a NOS one let me know, otherwise I'll get the LRB one.

I have to go back in this thread and read all the advice about seals and bearings closely to make sure I'm getting the right parts.

Thanks,
Rob
 
How d
I cannot seem to 'tune' my CP70
It warbles in the cut and wants to die when you cut the throttle. Need that carb kit bad.

Edit
Cleaned carb again except for Welch plugs, seems to run crisp at idle with good acceleration to top, good fourstroking sound but if held there for say 5 seconds it leans out revving up til it dies out, off the throttle and it recovers and can repeat or let it idle. Soooooooo now it appears to be fuel supply issues?
How are these 10 series saws vented? Can those huge filters restrict the flow of fuel to this degree?
Hmmmmm

How dirty was the carb initially? I think you may be right about a fuel supply issue. It could be the screen under the small welsh getting clogged when you throttle up. It's a very small screen with a very small circlip and does not take much to disrupt the fuel flow. The clip is kind of a pain to reinstall. The last time I did one I used 2 small strait edge screw drivers from a mini screwdriver kit.

I just found this vid to show you what to look for.

 
Just picked up a PRO MAC 850 82cc
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I know heimannm has a lot of McCulloch Chain Saws, as well as myself, I was wondering if anybody else has a few McCullochs in their collection of Chain Saws, and are they for work, or for display. Thanks for your input. Bruce.
you know i have a few and i do use all of them except my 200 and two 35s and me and the neighborhood kids and my own kid like to just look at em hanging there so both [emoji106]

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk
 
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