McCulloch Chain Saws

[heimannm]

The PM805, PM800, PM8200, DE80, and PM850 Super had the high profile AF cover, the SP80, SP81, SP81E, and PM850 have the same low profile AF cover as the other 10 Series saws.

Mark

 

[BigBlue]

Mark, you suck. Mac hog!! :-(

Actually, that's really cool that you have found and preserved that many mint old Macs. I'd love to have a very clean 80 cc saw like some you show there. I am working on making my PM800 run again but it doesn't look fresh like those do. At least my 10-10s still looks good!

Rob

 

[heimannm]

The back row with the DE80 belong to Joey Taylor (JoeyMT33), the front row are mine. I have since added a few as well including my own DE80 and a very clean PM850 Super, and a CP80DX . One day I will put all of the 82 cc saws in one photo, then I will know how many I can get rid of and still have one on the shelf and another in the small garage for a GTG/work saw.








Mark

 

[BigBlue]

I'd love to have that DE80 or 850. What is the value on one of those these days? Still in the $500 range? Where do you find them?

Rob

 

[rwoods]

Rob, all the 82cc saws have a larger air box than the other ten series. The 82cc saws all use the same 4 sided air filter; only the covers are different.

You find these saws by scouting eBay, Craigslist, LetGo, local trading papers and AS.

Ron

 

[heimannm]

Prices are all over the place, lower end is generally $175, top end $450-$500. I once had a NIB PM800 for $500 but that was for another member.

Even parts saws seem to get attention, $75 to $100 depending on the enthusiasm of the prospective buyer.

Mark

 

[rocketnorton]

had a sp 80. pd $30. like matt, lucked out. only one like it round here now is pm 850 @ $500. [c/l, b'ham, wa.].
also needed dcomp to start mine. couldn't get comp #, but was very healthy, runnin.

 

[raumati01]

I've only paid more than $100 for one mac saw, no idea why they are priced so low when they are still a very viable saw. My sp81 was $90, runs well.

 

[brandonstc6]

I am thinking about getting some Mac parts powder coated. Has anyone had this done before? What did it cost?


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[brandonstc6]

I’m sure I’d have to remove the triggers from the tank half and any rubber or plastic parts

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[Brian Thacker]

I have thought about it but all my Macs' are runners. I use them to cut fire wood. I also think all the missing paint, bumps and bruises shows character.

Brian

 

[brandonstc6]

I haven’t decided yet, but this saw could use but then I’d have to make it a shelf queen. It’s a McCulloch 740.


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[BigBlue]

I got my PM800 cylinder back from the shop today. He was able to get out pretty much all the aluminum transfer. There are a still a couple spots that look like pitting or more transfer but you can't feel them with a tool so they have no real edges to them. May just be discoloration? Anyway, it may not be perfect but it should be pretty good. He is a cylinder head repair guy (mainly for cars/trucks/machinery) and he said he feels it is fine. The ball hone he used didn't increase the cylinder diameter at all. Didn't even put cross-hatching on the walls because the chrome is so hard.

I guess at this point I need to order a piston kit and some seals and see if I can remember how it all goes back together.

Having never re-assembled an engine before, but watching it tons on TV, it seems they normally use a ring compressor. But with this blind head situation I'm not sure that is possible. Looking in from the bottom it looks like there is a taper leading into the cylinder wall. Is that to basically compress the rings as you push the piston in? Or is there some special tool I need to track down?

Thanks,
Rob

 

[rwoods]

I have found the 800s go together easily - no tools required. I had a smaller ten series that gave me fits getting the piston inserted.

Ron

 

[Brian Thacker]

I have done them both ways. They make a compression tool to compress the rings but most of the time I just start then in the cylinder. They will catch on the edge of the cylinder but I usually take either a pick or just my fingernail. start one side then the other. Not really that hard. I usually lube the ring groves and cylinder with either 2 stroke oil or STP oil treatment. You need to watch how the rings are lined up. Their is a pin in the ring grove. The ends of the ring goes at these pins. Their is a up and down side of the ring. The long side of the cut at the end of the ring goes down. Be gentle as you put the rings on, put the bottom ring on first. Keep checking that the rings are lined up on the pins as you put the piston on the bore. Before you start putting anything together ensure that the surfaces where the clamshell goes together is very clean. I take just before I put things together and use alcohol to the surfaces to get any oil off them. I then take an acid brush and cut it down to about 1/4 inch and use it to apply sealant. It gives you a nice smooth and even coat of sealant. Just take it easy and don't get into a hurry. Make sure their is ample sealant where the seal and case meet. This is a point where I have seen leaks. Use loc tite on all bolts and screws. Macs like to vibrate and will vibrate loose. If you reuse a gasket use sealant on them. I would rebuild the carb while I had it off. Just something I do. May as well have a good clean carb at the start with a new fuel line and pulse line. Just take your time and make sure everything is sealed well and you will be alright.

Brian

 

[Brian Thacker]

Ron's 101b gave me a hard time getting the piston started in the bore and all the 10-10s I have done was hard to get into the bore.

Brian

 

[rwoods]

Not surprised about the 1010S. It was a PM570 that gave me trouble. They are both 57cc I think.

Ron

 

[heimannm]

The cylinder has a pretty generous chamfer on it that helps get the rings going in properly. I don't know how you would get a ring compressor down in there.

No gasket sealer on the oil tank cover gasket, that one often needs to come apart and go back together several times because you forget a screw for the front anti-vibe or have a leaky gasket under the automatic oil pump. Make sure you have the spring clip for the automatic pump and wedge it in tight.

I don't use Loctite on the crankcase screws but do give the ends of the four 10-24 screw a liberal coat of Threebond to make sure they don't leak, I like to use O-rings on the screws since the sealing washers are generally gone, and a dab of Threebond under the flange as well.

Start the small seal on the crankshaft before you assemble it into the crankcase, then square it up in the bore once you have both halves buttoned up. The shoulder on the shaft is so square and tight to the crankcase that it is nearly impossible to get the small seal on if you try to slip it in with the whole unit assembled.

Mark

 

[BigBlue]

Appreciate all the tips!!

Rob

 

[Brian Van]

I got my PM800 cylinder back from the shop today. He was able to get out pretty much all the aluminum transfer. There are a still a couple spots that look like pitting or more transfer but you can't feel them with a tool so they have no real edges to them. May just be discoloration? Anyway, it may not be perfect but it should be pretty good. He is a cylinder head repair guy (mainly for cars/trucks/machinery) and he said he feels it is fine. The ball hone he used didn't increase the cylinder diameter at all. Didn't even put cross-hatching on the walls because the chrome is so hard.

I guess at this point I need to order a piston kit and some seals and see if I can remember how it all goes back together.

Having never re-assembled an engine before, but watching it tons on TV, it seems they normally use a ring compressor. But with this blind head situation I'm not sure that is possible. Looking in from the bottom it looks like there is a taper leading into the cylinder wall. Is that to basically compress the rings as you push the piston in? Or is there some special tool I need to track down?

Thanks,
Rob

That ball hone is kind of scary but I used a three finger so... Ah you may have gotten lucky has I have. Good luck!