McCulloch Chain Saws

[brandonstc6]

I am looking over my new to me Mcculloch 795. I noticed this black lever. Is this a DSP valve?

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[leeha]

Yes

 

[BigBlue]

Got a couple new horses in the stable. Super Pro 81 in great external condition and complete but I believe it has poor compression. Probably has piston/cylinder issues. I guess if I ever get my PM800 rebuilt I'll have enough confidence to try doing this one. Also a 35 Flying Goose. This too is complete but hasn't run in apparently a very long time. No idea what might be up with it. It pulls over OK. I'm not too into the older saws so if there is any interest in this let me know because I'd be willing to part with it.

 

[leeha]

That's saweeeet 81, Very clean.

 

[heimannm]

That is a good looking SP81, make sure the pop up compression release is seating properly and that you are not losing compression that way.

The 35 is a good looking saw as well. That is a late 35, you can see where they were getting ready to move the oiler button up by your right thumb on the rear handle. Most of the time there would have been a flange on the handle just above the oiler button on the oil tank, helped you to hold the saw and work the oiler at the same time. Yours may have been molested at some point in its life.

This is an older 35, no modification in the housing for the oiler button by your thumb on the rear handle.



This is a 33, notice the small air filter and no flange for your left hand.



This is a 39, see the oil button near the rear handle like the 35A, still has the flange on the front handle, and a "full wrap" style front handle bar. The custom fuel cap came at no extra charge. I plan to do a full restoration on this one some day just because the 39 is so rare.



It even has a clutch cover of sorts.



Mark

 

[BigBlue]

That is a good looking SP81, make sure the pop up compression release is seating properly and that you are not losing compression that way.

The 35 is a good looking saw as well. That is a late 35, you can see where they were getting ready to move the oiler button up by your right thumb on the rear handle. Most of the time there would have been a flange on the handle just above the oiler button on the oil tank, helped you to hold the saw and work the oiler at the same time. Yours may have been molested at some point in its life.

Mark

For the 81's compression release, how do you check if it is releasing properly? I believe it is probably OK because I think I feel a difference in pulling the engine over when the button is in vs. when I manually pull the button outwards.

I put a bore cam into the plug hole to look around. Couldn't see everything, but I did see a section of the cylinder wall on the bottom (exhaust side?) where there look like some decent scratches. Can't get any depth with a cam like that though so they may just be light scuffs. I did try to start it with fresh fuel and by squirting some starting fluid (modestly) into first the carb and then through the plug and it didn't even want to fire. It does have spark. My pulling arm is messed up right now though, so I had to pull left handed, which is awkward.

What saw would be more powerful or 'capable', a SP81 or a PM800? I did notice that the 81 seems to have a anti-vibe mount or something because the bar/clutch seems to move in relation to the saw body, which I don't think I've seen on my 10-10s or other 10-series.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[heimannm]

No chainsaws today, Mrs. Heimann wanted me to turn an old coaster wagon into a rustic little side table so I used my table saw, radial arm saw, and chop saw to turn some packing material into reasonably useable lumber.



Mark

 

[BigBlue]

By the way, what is the small flappy-looking thing on top just in front of the rear handle on the 35?

Heimannm, your carpentry skills look great! Nice job!

Rob

 

[leeha]

Spark plug cover.

 

[joeymt33]

What saw would be more powerful or 'capable', a SP81 or a PM800? I did notice that the 81 seems to have a anti-vibe mount or something because the bar/clutch seems to move in relation to the saw body, which I don't think I've seen on my 10-10s or other 10-series.

Thanks,
Rob

I would choose the SP81 over the PM800 everyday. Actually that’s what I do when I go cut. I still try to let the PM saws exercise though.

As for the scratches, it’s a chrome bore so if it scratched that, then the piston is also in rough shape. Looks like a rebuild is in order for that one.

 

[heimannm]

There is some debate on the 82 cc saws but my impression is PM850 is the most powerful, followed closely by the SP81E, SP81, and SP80 and CP80DX.

The PM800/805 seem to be less impressive but it could be the extra muffler just makes them seem more tame. The PM850 Super is just the PM800, the PM8200 is totally different design but right in there with the PM800. My DE80 is lagging behind the other 82cc saws but it has the most wear of the all.

All of those models use the same anti-vibe system with some difference in the lower brace. Others with the same anti-vibe would be PM570, SP60, and SP70. The CP55 and CP70 also used the same front & rear anti-vibe mounts but had a different arrangement on the bottom.

It is certainly worth putting some time & effort into making the 81 a runner.

Mark

 

[BigBlue]

There is some debate on the 82 cc saws but my impression is PM850 is the most powerful, followed closely by the SP81E, SP81, and SP80 and CP80DX.

The PM800/805 seem to be less impressive but it could be the extra muffler just makes them seem more tame. The PM850 Super is just the PM800, the PM8200 is totally different design but right in there with the PM800. My DE80 is lagging behind the other 82cc saws but it has the most wear of the all.

All of those models use the same anti-vibe system with some difference in the lower brace. Others with the same anti-vibe would be PM570, SP60, and SP70. The CP55 and CP70 also used the same front & rear anti-vibe mounts but had a different arrangement on the bottom.

It is certainly worth putting some time & effort into making the 81 a runner.

Mark

Thanks for lots of good info! Looks like I should plan on working on the 81 eventually if I even get my 800 done (I'm scared I won't remember how it all goes together now that it's all apart in a box waiting on an affordable piston).

Is the engine the same in all these saws, as far as piston and cylinder go? Or are the part numbers totally different between my 81 and 800?

Rob

 

[BigBlue]

By the way, for the PM800 rebuild I'm doing, I've been watching eBay for a 92519 piston that is less than $100 and the only one in months has been the Lil' Red Barn knockoff. It looks quite 'rough' compared to the OEM piston (casting, inside, etc) and it has thick rings instead of thin. Should I be concerned or just go for it? Bear in mind, this saw isn't going to be used a ton, I just want it to be usable to cycle into service occasionally for the couple of trees I cut a year. More of a 'sweet to have a working 800' thing.

Thanks,
Rob

 

[brandonstc6]

Here are some pics of my 795. The muffler is missing a cover right? Also it has a tillotson HL carburetor. Are the fuel lines still available? Do the numbers on the bottom suggest is is a 795? Would it be a good idea to replace the crank seals as a precaution?

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[fossil]

Different pressure spring to prevent bar oil from getting sucked into the crankcase for the 10 series oil pumps. I haven't come across one of these before.

Very hard spring steel

It's on a PM55

 

[fossil]

Made a new muffler cover for my SP80 today. It's aluminum so I hope it holds up. !/4" 5052 plate and a piece of unknown alloy for the deflector.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Looks fast.

 

[rwoods]

Tim, don’t get your hopes too high on that oiler spring. I have had a couple and don’t believe they work any better than the clip. Much easier to install though.

Screws from the top is the only sure way I have found.

Ron

 

[leeha]

63629 = 795
66251 = 797

 

[fossil]

Looks fast.

Thanks Poge. Trying to work on my fabrication skills. I'm not too good and painfully slow.

Tim, don’t get your hopes too high on that oiler spring. I have had a couple and don’t believe they work any better than the clip. Much easier to install though.

Screws from the top is the only sure way I have found.

Ron

I decided to take the PM55 down today as it sucked oil to put one of the clip springs that Mark was kind enough to give me and found that. I tweaked it a bit and also found that the cellophane that likely once covered an adhesive was still on the oiler to case gasket. I don't suppose leaving that cello here would help matters.

That's the only 10 series saw I have that sucked bar oil.
Anyhow, whatever I did stopped the oil leak.

I'll have to give the saw a quick run in some wood. It feels peppy. I did run it when I first got it out of curiosity but one cut I think as it was smoking a lot.

I really don't much about the PM55 model.

I think it came with this 10-10 with the foreign starter which was the one I went for.