McCulloch Chain Saws

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Worked on the PM800 with the old style duct muffler tonight. Based on the position of the safety wires, the screws seem to be as installed but I was able to tighten both a full 1/2 turn. DSP valve I tightened a good 3/8 turn. Makes me wonder if the timeserts weren’t completely seated. Anyway we will see if the muffler stays tight now. This episode has got me to thinking more about buying a 1/4” torque wrench. Any suggestions - beam, click or dial? New or used? Suggested measurement range? Would like to stay under $40.

For the first time, I worked on my saw with it mounted in a vice. Really convenient - may have to get serious and built a swivel vice like some of you have.

Ron
 
Urg went on my lunch break to pick up a spare.chain for.my sons saw at my local oregon retailer. They stopped carrying anything but safety style chains. Guess im ordering from baileys lol
 
Hey Mark, any chance that 3D printer could make a BP-1 top cover? I need one for a carcass saw I picked-up. I thought about making one from carbon fiber but it might be beyond my talent level. Tom
 
I will be limited to single extruder printing simple materials like PLA, ABS, PETG, etc.. for the foreseeable future. The top cover for the BP-1 is not a good candidate for my printer due to the size and shape of the part as I need one flat surface to build from. I have no doubts that someone has the ability to make parts like the BP-1 top cover and the air box grommets, but you must start with the design (requires some significant CAD skills) and a printer that can create that kind of hollow shape. I am sure it could be done with a dual filament type with one water soluble compound but I am not sure the finished part would be suitable for anything more than looking at unless they can print in more exotic materials that I can work with.

Mark
 
Anyone know the correct size o ring for the oiler piston? I have been using #60 1/4” od 1/8” id 1/16” thick. But they don’t hold in the cold weather.

No suggestions or recommendations on my torque wrench inquiry?

Will post some pictures later of today’s MAC feast.

Ron
 
Today's task - old red oak (Yes, that is an off-brand WWS MS361 for the short end):
IMG_2835.JPG

PM800 going deep:
IMG_2838.JPG

Chunking it up:
IMG_2839.JPG

Brian wasn't feeling well, but he came after lunch for a little exercise of his PM610 and 1010S (First of two 16' trailer loads in background):
IMG_2841.JPG

Muffler stayed tight on the PM800. Can't say the same for the off-brand - used my last spare bolt on it this morning.

Ron
 
Speaking of old, I was gigging the younger guys about skipping out on the hard cutting. One responded that he thought he was doing "the old man with the antique saws" a favor by leaving the big stuff for me. Brian made me feel better, at least about the saws, when he told me that last week he overheard comments that we were running saws that were "ported" big time. The only ported saw I have is the off-brand. I was using the PM800 last week.

Ron
 
I will be limited to single extruder printing simple materials like PLA, ABS, PETG, etc.. for the foreseeable future. The top cover for the BP-1 is not a good candidate for my printer due to the size and shape of the part as I need one flat surface to build from. I have no doubts that someone has the ability to make parts like the BP-1 top cover and the air box grommets, but you must start with the design (requires some significant CAD skills) and a printer that can create that kind of hollow shape. I am sure it could be done with a dual filament type with one water soluble compound but I am not sure the finished part would be suitable for anything more than looking at unless they can print in more exotic materials that I can work with.

Mark
.. That sounds like a hellofa machine.. But as I read, it dawned on me. I have no idea what I was reading.. So I went out, started the PM 55, and terrorized the pine beetles. Ahhh. Damn near had a brain overload, but I'm better now. Cheers, k
 
Does anyone know how to reinstall the spring in a Super 55A recoil housing? I can't get it figured out to save my life.
Is the spring all misscombubalated? And does it have both ends? If your spring is sprung, get it unraveled and easier to work with, and hook the outside first and then just keep feeding the spring around till ya run out of spring.. The pully has a place that accepts the springs hook..never fear not having tension.. If the pully fits on the spring and sits right you're almost home..check that the spring caught by turning the pully and getting recoil tension..if not keep screwing with it...if it's hooked, you now need to pull the starter rope into the inside of the casing..there's a little notch in the pully that the rope fits in so that you can tension up the spring to get the rope on the pully.. You'll figure it out from there. They're all pretty much the same.. If this helps I'll really be surprised.. Anybody else Wanna try? Cheers. K
 
Just need the 1/4" drive. Do you think the HF is precise enough to trust for our old saws?

Ron
For fun I checked the one I use. Setup was a 1/4" bolt through a 3/8" tubing clamped down. Vice grips on threads to be a lever to which a weight was hung. Set of weights made up for trigger testing. Doing the math on the weight vs length i got 7.3 pounds x 6.75" iirc 64 inch pounds. Torque wrench set at 65
So with some stuff you have laying around you can test your torque wrench. Repeatability is mor important than accuracy. You find yours is say 60 vs 70 actual you coukd set it back to 50 or so to hit the 60
 

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