Real beast of a saw with a shortish bar I think. How do ya like 404?
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Jethro, my pm700 is from the early 80's and it has a 44a carb on it. I bought a carb a while back on ebay for my sp81. It has both h and L adjustments, supposed to be from a 7-10. Its a walbro sdc 44. Not sure of the differences between the 44 and 44a. Both saws run very well either way.
Ron, ive heard people say "ugly stump" before...my opinion is, you cant argue with success. The tree is on the ground. If someone has an issue with a stump, tell em to go take a cut off of it so it looks prettier rotting away for the next 30yrs. Fine job. Tree is down and noone is hurt. Mission accomplished. Great saw too.
Though the 800 is probably borderline for .404 and 3/8 would be faster, I like it for the wider kerf and because it does seem to stay sharp longer. I don’t have a clue as to why it should keep an edge longer. I also like the wider Stihl bar.
Ron
Vinny my 7-10 is a 44 externally they look identical so buggerd if I know lol. I didn't realize it could work on a 82cc though my 800 is a zama.
Thanks for the 404 answer Ron I remember Joey saying there good with a 20 inch 404 I'm just wondering if it's worth the conversion if I find a 404 bar for a good price is all as the holding an edge better seems rather nice.
Thanks for the 404 answer Ron I remember Joey saying there good with a 20 inch 404 I'm just wondering if it's worth the conversion if I find a 404 bar for a good price is all as the holding an edge better seems rather nice.
Here is some information I have assembled from documents I could find. The larger bore carburetors often appeared on smaller saws but can make a bigger saw, even the SP125 perform better.
I don't remember the model of the carburetor but I took one of the smaller ones off one of my SP125's and put on one of the bigger ones with and adjustable H (came off of a CP70) and it made a marked improvement in the performance. I left the smaller one with the fixed H on my work SP125 and find it will still cut a lot of wood.
Mark
I don't remember the model of the carburetor but I took one of the smaller ones off one of my SP125's and put on one of the bigger ones with and adjustable H (came off of a CP70) and it made a marked improvement in the performance. I left the smaller one with the fixed H on my work SP125 and find it will still cut a lot of wood.
Mark
Very interesting read mark, thankyou for adding that.
I haven't been spending a lot of time on saws lately but I have been busy in my shop...look at the Tool Forum for some ideas of what I've been up to.
Mark
Mark
Over my pay grade. But neat stuff. Ron
That is one advantage of showing photos, nobody knows what's on the other side or how long it took you to get there...
I have been watching some You Tube videos for ideas and only one guy (a Dutchman that goes by rolingmetal) shows some of his attempts that don't work.
Mark
I have been watching some You Tube videos for ideas and only one guy (a Dutchman that goes by rolingmetal) shows some of his attempts that don't work.
Mark
Great point there Mark in my experience of engineering I've learned that all the good ideas and solutions start from ones that didn't work or the guy who comes along and remakes something and takes the thunder but the original idea is really the important one that got the ball rolling.
Did someone mention failure? I have a project saw that is one hurdle after another. Each hurdle has taken several attempts to get over, several remain, but hopefully I will get it done and share it here.
Not a saw but saw related, my latest design failure. Giant caster to allow me to load heavier logs with my little tractor. Load tested it with 2600# +/-, bent the 5/8" steel tongue and bowed the 3/8" aluminum cross brace frame of my boom. Caster was not in a level position for the test and it created too much leverage for the mount. I guess Reese meant it when it rated the maximum tongue weight at 500#. My caster survived unscathed.
1400# +/-
In case you are wondering about my weird designs, first there is my weird way of thinking and then there is the fact that I can't weld and don't have the proper tools to cut steel. So I make stuff from scrap aluminum I scrounge from the scrap yard, cut the pieces with my miter saw and hire the welding. My steel parts are usually re-purposed stuff as custom made shop pieces get expensive and time consuming in a hurry. Here it looks like I am going to have to bite the bullet and visit the shop to fab my new heavy duty ditch the hitch design.
Ron
Not a saw but saw related, my latest design failure. Giant caster to allow me to load heavier logs with my little tractor. Load tested it with 2600# +/-, bent the 5/8" steel tongue and bowed the 3/8" aluminum cross brace frame of my boom. Caster was not in a level position for the test and it created too much leverage for the mount. I guess Reese meant it when it rated the maximum tongue weight at 500#. My caster survived unscathed.
1400# +/-
In case you are wondering about my weird designs, first there is my weird way of thinking and then there is the fact that I can't weld and don't have the proper tools to cut steel. So I make stuff from scrap aluminum I scrounge from the scrap yard, cut the pieces with my miter saw and hire the welding. My steel parts are usually re-purposed stuff as custom made shop pieces get expensive and time consuming in a hurry. Here it looks like I am going to have to bite the bullet and visit the shop to fab my new heavy duty ditch the hitch design.
Ron
What about if you put a caster on each side of the frame instead of in the middle?
Brian
Brian
Aaron Rybicki
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I wish I could say that after spraying some WD40 up the hole where the oil should pump out of and filling the oil tank with diesel, my SP81E is oiling properly, but it's not.
Not much experience with these oilers and have read some other threads about them but not sure which step to take next. It does not pump oil automatically and will not flow when pumped manually. The manual push button does have resistance. No oil is leaking from anywhere. So I'm assuming there is a blockage somewhere and is not picking up oil from the tank. I have yet to pull the front cover off of the oil tank. That'll be next.
Not ready to pull the fuel tank just yet. Wanting to exhaust all my options before I do so. Anyone have some ideas on what might be the cause of this?
Not much experience with these oilers and have read some other threads about them but not sure which step to take next. It does not pump oil automatically and will not flow when pumped manually. The manual push button does have resistance. No oil is leaking from anywhere. So I'm assuming there is a blockage somewhere and is not picking up oil from the tank. I have yet to pull the front cover off of the oil tank. That'll be next.
Not ready to pull the fuel tank just yet. Wanting to exhaust all my options before I do so. Anyone have some ideas on what might be the cause of this?
I would have to built another one and two extended mounts to clear the tractor tires.
Ron
It could be a check valve issue in the pump. You could try another pump from a know good oiler and see how you get on. I can't remember if there is a valve in the manual pump or weather it was in the auto. The info is in here though if you keep searching. Someone will pop along and set you right soon enough
Pull the oil tank cover off and pull the auto pump to make sure the piston is intact. If that's OK you may have to pull the fuel tank and see if the check valve in the manual pump is free. It's a small disc between the manual pump and the fuel line.
If you end up pulling the fuel tank, pay attention to where everything goes. I found it to be a bit of a three handed job the first time you do it.
One mistake I made the first time was pulling the filter screen out of the end of the oil line. That was a bad move.
Here's some info from Mark H all the pics are gone unfortunately
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/mcculloch-10-series-oiler.190113/
Pull the tank give it a good clean up while there n check out the boot and impulse line too it's a really easy job half an hour and you'll have it in bits.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/mcculloch-10-series-oiler.190113/
Pull the tank give it a good clean up while there n check out the boot and impulse line too it's a really easy job half an hour and you'll have it in bits.
I tended to not drain the oil from the tank before I pulled the cover. I have cured myself of that. I know I'm the only dummy that ever did that too.
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